DanielJhb Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Hi guys some advice please, I'm currently running Ztr Arch Ex's on hope hubs with a wtb trailboss 2.4 up front and wolverine 2.2 at the back on my pyga 120. I'm looking at purchasing a second wheelset for x-country racing and some road riding. My budget is around 7.5k. Anyone have suggestions on a light and quick wheelset and also tyre setup for road/cross country. I know the ztr crests are a good option maybe racing ralph tyres - will i feel a massive difference to my current setup I'm wondering?
NicoBoshoff Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 About 80g per rim difference. Tyres (assuming you ride 29") if you go down to say Spez Grid tyres (Ground control and purgatory combo) you'll shave a pretty massive 255g front and 45g rear. So you'll shave 460g on rotational weight. That's huge.
DanielJhb Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 About 80g per rim difference. Tyres (assuming you ride 29") if you go down to say Spez Grid tyres (Ground control and purgatory combo) you'll shave a pretty massive 255g front and 45g rear. So you'll shave 460g on rotational weight. That's huge.Just had a look, current TYRE setup weighs 1830g combined. Racing ralph snakeskin weighs in at 530 per tyre. That would mean a 770g saving on tyres alone. Assuming that in itself would make a huge difference?
NicoBoshoff Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Just had a look, current TYRE setup weighs 1830g combined. Racing ralph snakeskin weighs in at 530 per tyre. That would mean a 770g saving on tyres alone. Assuming that in itself would make a huge difference?Uhm...yes. It's rotational weight on the extremes of your moving object. It's probably also the cheapest way of making your bike skinny rather than spending R5000 on another wheelset. I also have a XC/race set of tyres and then a slightly heavier, more burly set for Enduro's or trail rides. Bit of a schlep, but it's waaaayyy cheaper than a whole 2nd wheelset.
NicoBoshoff Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 I'd just go for the lightest tyres that won't explode at the sight of a rock or sharp object. Second wheelset is a bit much for 160g.
DanielJhb Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 I'd just go for the lightest tyres that won't explode at the sight of a rock or sharp object. Second wheelset is a bit much for 160g.Tubeless setup complicates things a bit, but I hear you
JXV Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 If running tubeless it is too much schlep to swap tyres just because you will XC or ride on the road for the weekend. So the 2nd wheelset comes in handy for that....this is what you're paying the money for. If riding with tubes your tyre changes are easier so a single wheelset is practical enough but you are paying a weight and performance penalty. I would rather race on my tubeless trail tyres than run tubes just so I can switch to racy tyres more easily.
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Agree with Nico here - go for a light tyre setup. If you absolutely must go for a new wheelset, rather get a wider one and relegate the ARCH rims to road / light XC duty. That way you win on both ends, instead of getting something marginally lighter and in the same width region, you have a light set and use your existing tires on a newer, tougher, rowdier wide set of rims. Far more benefit. But me - I'd go with lighter tires. Then wider rims.
DanielJhb Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 Awesome advice as usual. What about if I stick my current meaty tyres on the standard wheelset I have lying around from the trance and go with light tyres on the archs? Or should I look at new wheelset for trail tyres? And if so what isn't too pricey?
Samurai Pizza Cat Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 Awesome advice as usual. What about if I stick my current meaty tyres on the standard wheelset I have lying around from the trance and go with light tyres on the archs? Or should I look at new wheelset for trail tyres? And if so what isn't too pricey?I went for a second set of xc rims and "lighter" tyres....a complete waste of money. You end up riding the set you trust most. I just felt more confident on my trail / AM set up, and used the xc wheelset once in a blue moon. My advice: sell all your wheels, and buy the best set you can afford with the best compromise between strength vs weight . ( both on tyres and wheels.)
NicoBoshoff Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 I went for a second set of xc rims and "lighter" tyres....a complete waste of money. You end up riding the set you trust most. I just felt more confident on my trail / AM set up, and used the xc wheelset once in a blue moon. My advice: sell all your wheels, and buy the best set you can afford with the best compromise between strength vs weight . ( both on tyres and wheels.)Very fee tyres will offer that versatility. Frankly I think then I'd rather err on the side of weight saving. Almost 2kg in rubber is ma-hooosive, so if schlep is an issue, go for a more all round tyre combo (franky I think the Spez one I recommended is just that - you'd still be saving 400+ grams and more importantly R5000).
DanielJhb Posted May 11, 2015 Author Posted May 11, 2015 Very fee tyres will offer that versatility. Frankly I think then I'd rather err on the side of weight saving. Almost 2kg in rubber is ma-hooosive, so if schlep is an issue, go for a more all round tyre combo (franky I think the Spez one I recommended is just that - you'd still be saving 400+ grams and more importantly R5000).I see a few options on the tyres you mentioned, what is difference between "grid" and normal ground control?
JCA12 Posted May 11, 2015 Posted May 11, 2015 I see a few options on the tyres you mentioned, what is difference between "grid" and normal ground control? The Grid has a thicker sidewall and is a fair bit heavier. However the standard Ground Controls (the 'Control' version) is good enough for me and i haven't had a sidewall issue. Been using Ground Controls for the last 2 years no issues. Did just short on 3000 km on the one tire, about 1800 on the front and then i put it on the back when i got a new one. lasted 1200 km on back before it began bubbling in the tread. Great value for the cost Edit: Just checked the grid weighs between 15 and 40g more than the normal tire, and it claims 23% better cut resistance than the normal Ground control
NicoBoshoff Posted May 12, 2015 Posted May 12, 2015 The Grid has a thicker sidewall and is a fair bit heavier. However the standard Ground Controls (the 'Control' version) is good enough for me and i haven't had a sidewall issue. Been using Ground Controls for the last 2 years no issues. Did just short on 3000 km on the one tire, about 1800 on the front and then i put it on the back when i got a new one. lasted 1200 km on back before it began bubbling in the tread. Great value for the cost Edit: Just checked the grid weighs between 15 and 40g more than the normal tire, and it claims 23% better cut resistance than the normal Ground controlJa the Grid set isn't that much heavier actually, and the sidewalls are noticeably better. I am running a GC Grid rear and normal Purgatory front for Sani2C this week but that's just because I know there are literally zero rocks on the route. When I get back home the Purgatory will be upgraded to the Grid I have lying in my workshop. And it really is no more of a schlep than taking your chain off for a good cleaning every few weeks. It becomes a schlep with certain tyres that are near impossible to get on (Maxxis!) but that's really it. It's a 15 minute job, which for R5k I'll gladly do.
NicoBoshoff Posted May 12, 2015 Posted May 12, 2015 BTW, what else could you do to your bike "permanently" that would make it lighter for good? Other than tyres and wheels you are solidly in the realm of marginal gains, but they do all add up. What fork, bar and stem are you running? Can you not upgrade to lighter there? Perhaps move to higher spec (and lighter) chain and cassette?
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