Bobbo_SA Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 You use a BIG allen key - fits inside the freehub. What he said. I found the easiest is to clamp the allen key in a vise and then place the wheel on top of it and rotate the wheel (obviously make sure you turn it the right direction), those freehubs can be rather tight.
V12man Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 What he said. I found the easiest is to clamp the allen key in a vise and then place the wheel on top of it and rotate the wheel (obviously make sure you turn it the right direction), those freehubs can be rather tight.That's one way.... The other is to have some allen key sockets and a 3 foot bar.... Don't forget to grease the threads before putting it back on.
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Thanks all. Eventually figured it was a large allen key but could not find one at the hardware store as they only sell in packs and up to 10mm. Where do I get this monstrosity of an allen key?
New Landy new life Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 Most decent engineering suppliers will sell one at a time
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Ok thanks, although the hub back together but does not run as freely as before. I damaged one of those metal seals that fit on top of the ball bearings but found an old hub with a similar part that worked ok but me thinks I have messed something up as the wheel she doss not spin too freely. Lbs may be in order..but rather chuffed with my attempt.
Bobbo_SA Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 Ok thanks, although the hub back together but does not run as freely as before. I damaged one of those metal seals that fit on top of the ball bearings but found an old hub with a similar part that worked ok but me thinks I have messed something up as the wheel she doss not spin too freely. Lbs may be in order..but rather chuffed with my attempt. Probably over-tightened the cones slightly, loosen the cones till it spins free and maybe a tiny bit more, I always found that the cone will tighten a little more when you lock it down with the lock nut. Might take you 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 beers to get it just right.
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Funny you say that, as I had them fairly loose and the axel semmed to spin ok but tighted again as I thought they were too loose. Then went to have those beers as I was done and full of grease. Ok, will try to loosen them a bit to get it right.
Bobbo_SA Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 That's one way.... The other is to have some allen key sockets and a 3 foot bar.... Don't forget to grease the threads before putting it back on. Not sure my arms are long enough to be 3 feet away and hold the wheel still,
KarlvN Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 So I took my rear wheel to my LBS to fix an annoying problem with my hub. It kept pushing my chain when I free...I get told my freewheel needs replacing, as well as the axle, hub, rotor and all else besides the cassette. Long story short and a couple hundred rond later, all is fixed. Then last week I replace the chain, only to find it a bit long, so off to selfsame LBS for a bit of shortening. Dude then tells me, "hey, your freewheel is shot, you must replace"! Imagine my surprise. I tell him "nah mate, done that three weeks ago." He asks me "where?" - Imagine his surprise... I collected two hours later, and for now all seems fine. Apparently the freewheel was loose? So, my question is..."HOW?"
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Im no techie but with my current hub service experience, I see no reason to replace the axel unless brocken. Nor the cassette and rotor unless really worn. My freewheel seemed tight but needed a 14mm allen key to really be sure but didn't have one. I notice slight play in my xt hub but think it normal even if freewheel tight or it may be an xt floor.
Mojoman Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 So I took my rear wheel to my LBS to fix an annoying problem with my hub. It kept pushing my chain when I free...I get told my freewheel needs replacing, as well as the axle, hub, rotor and all else besides the cassette. Long story short and a couple hundred rond later, all is fixed. Then last week I replace the chain, only to find it a bit long, so off to selfsame LBS for a bit of shortening. Dude then tells me, "hey, your freewheel is shot, you must replace"! Imagine my surprise. I tell him "nah mate, done that three weeks ago." He asks me "where?" - Imagine his surprise... I collected two hours later, and for now all seems fine. Apparently the freewheel was loose? So, my question is..."HOW?"Sounds like this bike shop is pretty quick to replace anything that they can! I have gone through several free hubs and you can feel play and occasionally they 'skip' but I haven't had to replace a hub nor a rotor through this!
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Probably over-tightened the cones slightly, loosen the cones till it spins free and maybe a tiny bit more, I always found that the cone will tighten a little more when you lock it down with the lock nut. Might take you 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 beers to get it just right.Thanks Bobbo, loosened the cone a little bit and now the wheel spinning more freely.
New Landy new life Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 I sometimes find if you don't have enough grease to hold the balls, you can get one in the wrong place and then you never get the setting right
AlanD Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Well I had balls bouncing all over the show as this was my first hub service and also found the got all cluttered up and had to use more grease to get them in the right place. Just hope the hub hold together on the next ride or it will be an expensive lesson. Will still donthe fromt hub with my learnings from the rear. Funny enought, I started wihlth cassette wobble and still heave th wobble. .hahaha
New Landy new life Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 I once stripped my freewheel hub. Spent quite some time putting new balls and grease in that thing without them spilling all over the place. Then adjust tiny shims until right and holding the dogs closed while asembling. Also remember thread was left hand on the nut I think.
Martin PJ Posted June 18, 2015 Posted June 18, 2015 My cassette was a bit wobbly once, turns out it was a 11 speed locking ring with the small cog being 12 speed. LBS had swopped them over when doing a service.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.