Skylark Posted July 15, 2015 Author Posted July 15, 2015 Just put the spacers above the stem, therefore lowering the barThough you can't put many spacers above the stem before it looks ridiculous or dangerous.
Eddy Gordo Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 true, try and find a good place to position the bars before resorting to cutting the steerer.
JXV Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 Due to all the trees on our local KZN midlands trails not all the guys are wild about 800mm bars and some very good riders have the scars to prove it. So go wide if you want to but be aware of practical limitations . I ride an upright position due to a back injury that makes it difficult to lift my head enough to see the trail if my bars are too low. I use a 40mm Easton riser bar with a stack of about 20mm spacers under the stem on my TB LTc. Comfy for me to ride and great on descents but I can feel how it also degrades climbing ability compared to flatter bars I tried. The riser bars lift the front more easily on steeps and make it harder to ascend. Considering a dual position or Talas type fork to give me both advantages
raptor-22 Posted July 15, 2015 Posted July 15, 2015 The higher you sit the more you need to move the saddle forward to compensate for the cg being more rearward. So saddle has to be moved forward or chainstays need to be longer. The bar height and width are just additional dimension option to allow a comfortable fit
Skylark Posted July 15, 2015 Author Posted July 15, 2015 Been thinking about this, ideally I want a weighting setup that allows lifting the wheel easily, the ability to try manuals etc, which means relative to a typical bike setup it would be rather rear weighted to allow effortlessly lifting the front end. That setup would make steeper hill climbs quite a lot more challenging? Another thing is your seated weighting vs the weighting when out of your saddle, perhaps the stem/riser selection is even more crucial from that perspective? When using a dropper post, that adjusts the weighting as you change the height, perhaps a useful tool for a type of on the go weighting adjustment.
Skylark Posted July 15, 2015 Author Posted July 15, 2015 The higher you sit the more you need to move the saddle forward to compensate for the cg being more rearward. So saddle has to be moved forward or chainstays need to be longer. The bar height and width are just additional dimension option to allow a comfortable fitMmm good tip that, forgot about moving the saddle to influence the weighting. Was thinking I should get a touch more rise on the bars but I'm going to see how much saddle adjustment I have, maybe I can use that to get the extra rearward weighting I want.
Eddy Gordo Posted July 16, 2015 Posted July 16, 2015 Yeah the best is to test the various options that you can with your bike before deciding. Alot of R&D though and possibly alot of trail side changes
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