Optimal cadence

[NordicElf]

Is there an optimal cadence for specific types of riding or is it rider based? Say for doing a long endurance type ride? Is it better to get used to turning a bigger gear at a lower cadence or stay with what feels comfortable for me? It's hard to say w what my usual cadence is, on an IDT it's always around 90. On the road my garmin gives a much lower reading but I do like to free wheel...

Is 90 considered "high" cadence?

[IdeJongh]

Your garmin should exclude zero's when calculating averages to give a representative number.

 

That said, if you do speed work on the IDT don't stress, you will most probably migrate to a natural number on the bike.

 

There is no optimal value, differs between riders, terrain, fatigue etc.  90 is a great number for IDT training, but on the road or trails - it will find you.

[NordicElf]

Your garmin should exclude zero's when calculating averages to give a representative number.

 

That said, if you do speed work on the IDT don't stress, you will most probably migrate to a natural number on the bike.

 

There is no optimal value, differs between riders, terrain, fatigue etc. 90 is a great number for IDT training, but on the road or trails - it will find you.

Interesting just checked, all my road rides are between 50 and 75. 75 beingfor races or hard efforts and chances are the group would have moaned at me for "spinning". That doesn't seem high at all!

[IdeJongh]

You'll struggle to get rides rides close to the 90rpm, but if you train at high revs you will keep working on the leg speed.

 

On the flipside - don't forget to do low cadence intervals on the IDT as well.  The high leg speed training is important, but you also want the strength and muscle memory associated with cadence-riding closer to what you actually do on the road.

[SciencetoSport]

There is no Holy Grail, cadence is a personal and what works for you as a rider / athlete.

[Veebee]

You'll struggle to get rides rides close to the 90rpm, but if you train at high revs you will keep working on the leg speed.

 

On the flipside - don't forget to do low cadence intervals on the IDT as well.  The high leg speed training is important, but you also want the strength and muscle memory associated with cadence-riding closer to what you actually do on the road.

 

I think I need to focus more on low cadence work for strength. my average cadence on my ride yesterday was was 83 over 100km/1800m. but speed only at 24.4. would have not been possible to do such a ride 11 months ago but I need to be able to take the burn for longer. will change my training after the Shova. too late now to do anything different.

[nonky]

Following this topic with interest...just started to measure cadence on mtbike (been doing so for a while on idt).

[devocean]

I rekon when training, every so often for a few minutes at a time, push one gear harder than your ideal cadence and it'll build strength. Then eventually you will be able to ride your ideal cadence in that gear...then you go up a gear and repeat

[Jay_B]

Interesting just checked, all my road rides are between 50 and 75. 75 beingfor races or hard efforts and chances are the group would have moaned at me for "spinning". That doesn't seem high at all!

 

Jeepers thats low for a road ride, you got legs like Griepel by any chance 

 

Personally i ride more towards 90 RPM and upwards, dont pay much attention to cadence except when climbing. When im climbing i try ride closer to 100rpm and upwards. I have read somewhere that a more efficient cadence is around 90-95rpm, dont know how verified that is with experimental testing.

[eccc whippet]

busy doing a cadence cycling class ( money well spent)...80 rpm is resting...90 rpm is warming up and anything over a 100 is putting in effort...right or wrong i couldnt tell you...just giving you figues used during a session.

[JanJan]

I like to grind gears, and prefer a low cadence with a steady rythm, around 70-75 rpm regardless of terrain. Obviously after a weekend of hard training, I don't have much leg-power left.

 

A major component of pedalling to consider when training at different cadence, is your actual pedal stroke.

 

Try to maintain a continous power motion when pedalling higher than 90 rpms. Always focus to have a smooth stroke (scraping dog poo of your soles) to prevent dead spots when your cranks are vertical. You shouldn't "stamp" on your pedals.

You see it regularly in spinning classes: People turning the cranks at 120+ rpm, but they are bumping up and down on the seats... That doesn't help your legs at all if you are a cyclist.

 

However, when you are hitting a short very steep climb, you can grind it out at <70 rpm. By standing up it's going to be impossible to have a smooth stroke, but sideways movement of the torso and hips will help quite a lot.

 

Wattbikes have a 'Polar View' option which shows you your pedalling effectiveness at certain cadence.

[NordicElf]

Jeepers thats low for a road ride, you got legs like Griepel by any chance

 

Personally i ride more towards 90 RPM and upwards, dont pay much attention to cadence except when climbing. When im climbing i try ride closer to 100rpm and upwards. I have read somewhere that a more efficient cadence is around 90-95rpm, dont know how verified that is with experimental testing.

I know it's what the numbers say but I feel like I prefer an easier gear and to spin. Maybe there is a setting on the garmin I need to change for it to exclude 0? Or maybe I need to start hitting 100 RPM on the IDT? I've seen 130 RPM max on a few rides.

[rudi-h]

once a week i train on the kickr.  on the kickr app you can pick the wattage and it will control the resistance to provide that wattage irrespective of cadende.  so if you pedal slower, it makes it harder for the same power.

 

i have learned that its much easier to go with higher cadence (in the high-80's to mid 90's) in order to maintain the wattage.  i guess that's the best attempt that I ever had of scientific proof that high cadence is good.  If I drop to the 70's then its really hard work to keep those watts up!

 

I would say that 90 during hard efforts (hills etc.) is a good target, but I have no idea what my average would be over a long ride.  downhills and flats are likely to be much lower.

 

edit:  I'm a nerd, so for the non-nerds out there, this is for interest sake:

 

Power (Watt) = Torque (Nm) X cadence (in radians/second).  Torque translates directly to the force between your foot and the pedal, so if you increase your cadence by 10%, you can drop the force exerted by your legs by 10% for the same speed (power).  E.g. A 9kg "leg press" with each pedal stroke at 100 RPM, it is the same as doing a 10kg "leg press" at 90 RPM.

[NordicElf]

I like to grind gears, and prefer a low cadence with a steady rythm, around 70-75 rpm regardless of terrain. Obviously after a weekend of hard training, I don't have much leg-power left.

 

A major component of pedalling to consider when training at different cadence, is your actual pedal stroke.

 

Try to maintain a continous power motion when pedalling higher than 90 rpms. Always focus to have a smooth stroke (scraping dog poo of your soles) to prevent dead spots when your cranks are vertical. You shouldn't "stamp" on your pedals.

You see it regularly in spinning classes: People turning the cranks at 120+ rpm, but they are bumping up and down on the seats... That doesn't help your legs at all if you are a cyclist.

 

However, when you are hitting a short very steep climb, you can grind it out at <70 rpm. By standing up it's going to be impossible to have a smooth stroke, but sideways movement of the torso and hips will help quite a lot.

 

Wattbikes have a 'Polar View' option which shows you your pedalling effectiveness at certain cadence.

I do pay attention to my pedal stroke, never got the scraping thing right but try to keep it smooth. I love the polar view on the wattbike, I aim for sausages. Not sure how to make it translate though onto the road. Hoping for muscle memory. I'm not sure if I can make sausages without the visual feedback - I hope that makes sense.

 

I've been reading Joe Friel and I'm trying to figure out what kind of cyclist I am.

[NordicElf]

once a week i train on the kickr. on the kickr app you can pick the wattage and it will control the resistance to provide that wattage irrespective of cadende. so if you pedal slower, it makes it harder for the same power.

 

i have learned that its much easier to go with higher cadence (in the high-80's to mid 90's) in order to maintain the wattage. i guess that's the best attempt that I ever had of scientific proof that high cadence is good. If I drop to the 70's then its really hard work to keep those watts up!

 

I would say that 90 during hard efforts (hills etc.) is a good target, but I have no idea what my average would be over a long ride. downhills and flats are likely to be much lower.

I've noticed this too on the wattbike, it's easier for me to maintain power at a higher cadence.

And since I've embraced a lower hear on hills, my cadence has gone up and I'm definitely climbing better.

[eccc whippet]

just remember...without a power meter and not knowing your power output the rpm means nothing...100 rpm at 50 watts is actually rather difficult to do because there is no pressure on your legs...you just bounce on the seat...but 250 watts at 80 cadence is comfortable...but for another cyclist with stronger legs will find pedaling at 300 watts at 80 rpm more comfortable.

 

I am trying to understand this technical side of cycling...I am still a beginner... i am sure some of the more experienced riders will give you better advice.