Help me budget for my upgrade: 2015 Specialized Camber Comp Carbon

[Suidwes Boytjie]

for one, they're 7mm wider. That's a LOT. This has added benefits of being able to run slightly lower pressures in the same tyres, or lighter casing tyres at the same pressures, and have far more grip than would ordinarily be the case on the narrower rims. 

 

AFAIK they have a 107kg rider weight limit. Also, it depends who builds the wheels. You can have a stiff as hell wheel go off so easily if it was built badly... 

Ok... but what about the hubs? Are hubs an important part of the wheelset?

As far as i understand the AC WL standard hubs are not as fast engaging as the Hope Evo 2 hubs?

Or am i missing the plot somewhere

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

Ok... but what about the hubs? Are hubs an important part of the wheelset?

As far as i understand the AC WL standard hubs are not as fast engaging as the Hope Evo 2 hubs?

Or am i missing the plot somewhere

Depends what you ride. If you're constantly on very technical climbs and have to stop pedalling to adjust / clear something, then the lower engagement would be an issue as you'd have to rotate the crank a little more before the hub engages again. But if you're not on technical climbs, then the engagement points don't really matter - it doesn't affect it when pedalling and when the pawls are engaged - only when you stop pedalling and need to re-engage the hub

 

But yes, you're right. The hubs are "slower" to engage than the new Hope Pro2 hubs, but as I said above it's not a deal breaker unless you constantly stop and start on technical climbs.

[JXV]

It is already a nice bike.

1) If the fork does not have the FIT damper then get this installed. Then no need for another fork until this one wears out. If you are a heffalump the fork might be a bit flexy in which case consider Fox 34 or Pike etc with bigger stanchion diameter.

2) Your SGS rear derailer can tolerate a wider range cassette if you want one. So you could ditch the 15t and 17t and fit a 40t + 16t and keep the 2x chainring setup. Alternatively ditch the FD and shifter and convert to 1x10. Will save you about 400g.

3) The cheapest way to upgrade your brakes is is to fit a 200mm rotor in front and move the 180 to the back. This will give you more power if you need it. Probably not necessary if your weight is under 85kg.

4) what bar/stem length?

5) if no dropper post then get one - this is a biggie if you do a lot of trail riding with steep gradients

6) there are stiffer stronger wheels, even within the spez stable but their wheels tend to have lower spoke counts. Again, if you weight over about 80 -85 kg then better wheels will improve ride and flexibility.

7) Change the front GC tyre for a 2.3 Grid Purgatory and keep that GC as a spare for the rear. GC is nice but the Purgatory is even better on the front

[NotSoBigBen]

ehh....he could always get something that is lighter and that works...like X0 or XX....

 

You lucky it's Friday