Organic Posted January 5, 2016 Share It could be a custom model made for Merida, but from the pictures here:http://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/wheels/road-bike-wheels/racing-5-lghttp://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/wheels/road-bike-wheels/racing-7-lg it looks like the 5s have straight spoke ends on the hub side (at least on the rear, drive side), whereas the 7s have the traditional hooked ends. Here's another link that may be useful (although it's from a few years ago): http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12730449 Here's an official Youtube video on replacing Fulcrum spokes: It's for the Racing-1, but you'll note that right near the end they use some Locktite type goo to lock the spokes in place. I had Racing-3s a few years ago that never gave me any trouble. I'm lighter, but I imagine that if it's correctly Locktited it should work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kom Posted January 5, 2016 Share Here's an official Youtube video on replacing Fulcrum spokes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scbe5WC4sEA It's for the Racing-1, but you'll note that right near the end they use some Locktite type goo to lock the spokes in place. I believe it's linseed oil. I would have put some on before threading the nipple on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 5, 2016 Share Now imagine that...how many wheel builders in SA have a setup like that ?...i see park tool with a bit guessing...but micrometers...mmm This thread is really getting interesting and educational... Watching this video highlights what i would assume is the problem with the loose spokes...these spokes have a flat base which would restrict the spoke from turning...however my spokes have a round base...so you can screw the spoke into the nipple...which is why they come loose...if the spoke is not locked into the nipple or tensioned enough ...it just vibrates loose...add 108 kg to the rim...your problem just got a whole lot worse. Thats why i asked the question earlier...have the people who havent had problems ever had work done on their wheel...i believe once the "seal" is broken...unless the wheel builder know how to reseal...you will have endless issues. Edited January 5, 2016 by isetech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arendoog Posted January 5, 2016 Share I have a set of Fulcrum 7,s and weigh 100kg with no problem .Not sure about the racing pro set .Also have a set of brilliant racing zero,s Kom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 5, 2016 Share What about putting a drop of Loctite on each nipple next time you have them tensioned. Anybody ever done this? A wheelbuilder I used over 20 yrs ago used to put Contact Adheisive on the nipples after he built or tensioned wheels. Never had any issues. Where is Mr. Borman when you need him?The person who lasted worked on the wheel did use loctite and when the 3 came loose stripped the nipples and applied more loctite again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 5, 2016 Share The wheel in the pic above is the front wheel and has no issues...just had to replace the bearings when they seized shortly after purchasing the bike...they were sealed bearings and replaced with sealed bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 6, 2016 Share Just had a close up look at the back wheel in the pic from the link above...the reason the drive side doesnt come loose is because the spokes are flat where they cross preventing them from working loose..however as i mentioned the spokes on the left (opposite the drive side) just go straight from the hub to the rim. my thoughts...no matter how heavy you are if the spoke is not tight enough or the "seal" is broken between the nipple and the spoke thread...you will always have problems with these spokes coming loose...a bumpy road(like most in SA) would just make the the problem a whole lot worse. now to wait and hear the response from J&J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kom Posted January 6, 2016 Share Just had a close up look at the back wheel in the pic from the link above...the reason the drive side doesnt come loose is because the spokes are flat where they cross preventing them from working loose..however as i mentioned the spokes on the left (opposite the drive side) just go straight from the hub to the rim. my thoughts...no matter how heavy you are if the spoke is not tight enough or the "seal" is broken between the nipple and the spoke thread...you will always have problems with these spokes coming loose...a bumpy road(like most in SA) would just make the the problem a whole lot worse. now to wait and hear the response from J&J.The problem is that even though you have twice as many angled spokes on the drive side, the non-drive side has way more influence on the centering of the hoop, as such these spokes tend to be under less torque than the drive side to achieve the same "pull" of the hoop. I believe that the even-torquing and use of a good binding agent are the only way to keep the non-drive side spokes from un-threading. No offence to your LBS isetech, but me thinks your LBS is getting it wrong here, shoot me down. Ive just dropped mine at my LBS, should have them back tomorrow afternoon. I have a short route i can use to test if my LBS was able to succeed where i couldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 6, 2016 Share Not going to point fingers...as i am not an engineer nor a pro wheel builder...i just need a solution to this problem. I am not in position right now to outlay another R 4-6 k on wheels...i have already spent an additional R 3 k + getting the odds and sods sorted out...and gona be in for transport cost etc to get this wheel sorted out. Kom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 7, 2016 Share Good news...i have just received an email from fulcrum direct...the weight limit on all fulcrum (except red passion ) is 109 kg """The guys from Cycling J&J could suggest you the right way to ride our wheels, but please remember that the weight limit is 109 Kgs. Best Regards Giorgio FerronArea ManagerDescrizione: Descrizione: Descrizione: cid:image001.png@01D04483.493FD8F0 Enjoy your Fulcrum experience!"""" Thank goodness i fall just under the limit at 108 kg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 7, 2016 Share A question for the smart fellas...if you weigh 108 kg what is the weight distribution ratio between the front and back wheel? 70:30 sounds reasonable...you would also need to take the bike geometry into account. The wheels have a weight limit of 109 kg each...you would need to be a flippen heavy oke to exceed the limit Edited January 7, 2016 by isetech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAAD4 Posted January 7, 2016 Share I had my eyes tested on the 22nd of December and I don't see a 7 on that rim. Underachiever and Kom 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javadude Posted January 7, 2016 Share I read somewhere that the Merida Fulcrum wheels are a special build using the Racing 5 rim with the Racing 7 hub and spokes. Or the other way around,cant exactly remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eccc whippet Posted January 8, 2016 Share I had my eyes tested on the 22nd of December and I don't see a 7 on that rim.Caad you are correct...there is no 5 either...after some research...i have found that the wheels are actually fulcrum racing pro 5...how you can tell is by the type of spoke used...the 7 has a hook and the 5 not. Unfortunately i cant change it...or should i say dont know how to...maybe one of the moderators could help me...thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kom Posted January 8, 2016 Share Ive just dropped mine at my LBS, should have them back tomorrow afternoon. I have a short route i can use to test if my LBS was able to succeed where i couldn't.I got my wheels back yesterday and all seems good. All my nipples were replaced with longer high torque ones. The spokes are uber tight, there could be an explosion heard if one of them snaps. I took a short ride and the whole bike just feels much better to ride. Will report back if anything changes. eccc whippet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kom Posted January 8, 2016 Share ...how you can tell is by the type of spoke used...the 7 has a hook and the 5 not.A small correction but the racing 7 also uses straight pull spokes up front and on the non-drive side on the rear. The validity for this thread is around one brand (Fulcrum), where spokes come undone, or vibrate loose, after a period of time, or incorrect nipple/spoke tensioning. I've overcome my problem by using a different spec nipple as was fitted by the factory. eccc whippet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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