NickofWestville Posted February 20, 2016 Share I ride a silverback sprada 2 full sus. and I love it but the other day I picked up a friends hard tail and holy monkey was it light. Am I compromising and killing myself on climbs for a comfy ride ? What difference does weight make ? Do the million dollar question is what is the lightest best value hard tail ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jax79 Posted February 23, 2016 Share If you are looking at alloy, have a look at Cannondale F29 Lefty. I bought one last year. Weighs in around 12.5kg (large). Be warned, it's flippen quick. Ryno. and NickofWestville 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryno. Posted February 24, 2016 Share If you are looking at alloy, have a look at Cannondale F29 Lefty. I bought one last year. Weighs in around 12.5kg (large). Be warned, it's flippen quick.Same here, Riding a sub 11kg alu lefty. You can easily get one under 16k on the hub NickofWestville and Jax79 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14phoenix Posted February 24, 2016 Share I would go for a Giant XTC. They are some of the lightest I have seen. I helped a buddy build a sub 10kg 27.5 XTC. The 29er version is also light. Some other options: Scott ScaleRocky Mountain Vertex Go to weightweenies website or even Bikescale. They weigh every single part. NickofWestville and BenReaper 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s14phoenix Posted February 24, 2016 Share I looked at The Hub review of the sprada 2 and it does not look to be bad spec. 13.4kg does not seem that heavy. How serious do you want to race? Lets start with the exact spec of your bike and maybe a picture? From this we can see what is making your bike heavy or heavier than needed. You may be able to drop some weight without splashing out on a new bike. There will always also be a difference of about 500g to 1kg between a HT and Dually of the same spec. The rear shock usually accounts for 250g of that excluding the additional links etc. Prime example is Scott Scale 710 1380g VS Scott Spark 710 2300g (excl rear shock 250g) however I have seen dual suspension bikes under 10kg... The real question is how deep is your pockets? Edited February 24, 2016 by s14phoenix BenReaper and NickofWestville 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickofWestville Posted February 24, 2016 Share I looked at The Hub review of the sprada 2 and it does not look to be bad spec. 13.4kg does not seem that heavy. How serious do you want to race? Lets start with the exact spec of your bike and maybe a picture? From this we can see what is making your bike heavy or heavier than needed. You may be able to drop some weight without splashing out on a new bike. There will always also be a difference of about 500g to 1kg between a HT and Dually of the same spec. The rear shock usually accounts for 250g of that excluding the additional links etc. Prime example is Scott Scale 710 1380g VS Scott Spark 710 2300g (excl rear shock 250g) however I have seen dual suspension bikes under 10kg... The real question is how deep is your pockets?pockets are not that deep. Cool let me gather the info. and i'll be back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jax79 Posted February 24, 2016 Share At the end it comes down to personal taste. I had a Merida and Scott before, but the Cannondale really rocks my ride. If possible, test before you buy. Make sure to look at the specs, and a hard tail is at lower prices always the better climber. Ryno. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsc Posted February 24, 2016 Share I have a 2011 Giant ATX , WENT 1 X 10 . She comes in at just over 11kg now . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bos Posted February 25, 2016 Share I have done what you want to do...(went back to a dual sus)I would think long and hard before you just make the jump from a 120mm "trail/marathon" setup to a HT. The question,"what kind of rider are you" seems so cliché but its true..also where you live. Unless you ride mainly gravel roads or your primary objective is to climb better I would not make the jump. Ride your rearshock slightly harder for less sag which will help on climbs. Also lower your handlebars (flip your stem around or remove spacers) This will cost nothing but already make you feel faster going up. Try shave 1kg off your ride. Apparently the Sprada starts at 13.4kg. Im riding a 12.1kg RockyMountain element(heavy frame) which started off at 13.6kg, and I would take it over a 11kg HT any day. I spent about 10k on upgrades but even that only puts me at around 25k which was what I would have paid for a new one in the first place, but its now as light as an out the box carbon Element 970 at 50k..! Also remember Rotational weight makes the biggest difference. I had a quick look at the spec, this is how I would drop a KG on your bike: 1. Get a 1x10 setup from Rapide'. You will drop 500g instantly (32x11-42 ratio)R1600est2. Run lighter Tyres when you need an upgrade(plenty threads on here about that) 300g3. Rebuild your wheels, you have great rims but the deore hubs are boat anchors.Again, These Rapide's are hard to beat. Send your rims to Wayne and ask him to rebuild using Pillar spokes. http://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-ultralight-pro-hub-set/ 300g4. Replace the OEM saddle with a lightweight fizik/spez These above upgrades will cost around 7-8k if you buy new but many are upgrades you would have made anyway. You can keep going and prob drop another 500g but it gets more expensive: 5. Replace Handle bar with Sub 250g6. Seatpost to KCNC7.Brakesby now you're only saving 50-100g per R500..non rotational.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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