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New roadie, advice for a heavy rider


Toi

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Posted

I'm not sure what you have but 1 thing that will make life a lot easier at first is either a compact crank or else a triple. Believe me, even with a pretty large cassette, a standard crankset is going to leave you thinking you should go back to mtb.

very true....

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Posted

So, heavy riders.

 

I weight 110 now, don't know about with kit on.

 

I use a standard cranked with 11-28 cassette, gets me up any Hill around.

 

Get good bibs, you'll be sitting a lot more on the road bike than the MTB, so shorts and saddle choice is vital here. Also, rememeber to stand up often! My comfort motto is eat before you're hungry, drink before you're thirsty, and stand before you're sore. Get your saddle fit properly, and try out a bunch of different ones as the normal fat guy saddles may not be the ones that are most comfortable.

 

Gloves, get some good comfy ones. You'll be putting more weight on your hands than ever, so good gloves, and change hand positions on the drop bars as often as you stand. Also, double wrap them bars!!! Easy, cheap, and you'll thank me. Most of us bigger fellas have massive hands, so this will help with shock absorption, but also muscular comfort cause you're not gripping a skinny bar. Hood angle is extremely important to keep as much weight off your hands and arms, however it will shift it to your Gooch, so saddle and shorts must be fixed first.

 

Shoes, make sure they're comfortable. I need wide shoes, so it took a while to find ones that wouldn't feel like jumping on blades after a few kms.

 

Bike fit is important, as are wheels. I reckon most alloy or steel frames will take your weight with no issue, but wheels are going to suffer. Just get a cheap, high spoke count set that, should they break, you can finish your ride, and repair with ease and little expense.

 

Other than that, just get out and enjoy yourself. When I was bigger, I used to have the simple challenge that I would never get off and push up a climb. Sounds simple but it's not so easy when you weight as much as we do, however it prevented me from giving in to the notion of quitting. And you feel so effing great when you crest a climb afterwards.

 

Enjoy man! Maybe we can get ourselves a buffalo category in road races too, would be nice to climb in a bunch once in a while!!

Which brand is these wide shoes you are referring to? 

Posted

Which brand is these wide shoes you are referring to?

After much searching, the widest shoes I could find are Bont. I've punted them on the forum multiple times, but they are just that good.

 

I ride in Riot shoes, which are the cheap version, yet, have a stiff carbon sole, a good closure system, and are heat moldable, so you can get your fit just right. I also find the method of construction to be particularly helpful, it's basically a carbon fibre bathtub with material on top+closure system. So, instead of the usual slim slab of carbon, it curls up the sides. On other shoes, my foot would "spill over" the sides of the narrow sole and it was mega painful. Now, your feet are completely surrounded with carbon, so they stay where they should. Great fit for my very wide feet, toe box is nice and wide, even the shape suites a good more than the fancy Italian shoes I've worn previously.

Posted

After much searching, the widest shoes I could find are Bont. I've punted them on the forum multiple times, but they are just that good.

 

I ride in Riot shoes, which are the cheap version, yet, have a stiff carbon sole, a good closure system, and are heat moldable, so you can get your fit just right. I also find the method of construction to be particularly helpful, it's basically a carbon fibre bathtub with material on top+closure system. So, instead of the usual slim slab of carbon, it curls up the sides. On other shoes, my foot would "spill over" the sides of the narrow sole and it was mega painful. Now, your feet are completely surrounded with carbon, so they stay where they should. Great fit for my very wide feet, toe box is nice and wide, even the shape suites a good more than the fancy Italian shoes I've worn previously.

cool thanks

Posted

Which brand is these wide shoes you are referring to? 

You do NOT (I repeat NOT) have to ride alu or steel.

I was 125kg for at least a year or 2 cumulatively, if not longer on and off (now 115 and dropping) and rode a Scott Cr1 and then a Cannondale Synapse and BOTH were carbon. I think both had Mavic Aksium race wheels.

I NEVER had any issues with frames and forks and only had to true the odd wheel due to my hitting something in the road (operator error). I have also never broken a spoke.

 

Don't mess about with a compact crankset, us big guys like to fly downhill....get  a 53 39 and at the back, my secret weapon is a 28 11 cassette...and don't let anybody tell you the rear derailleur cage cant handle it....James at Complete Cyclist merely adjusted my 'B' screw...I keep up with tandems on descents and have a super granny gear for steep climbs otherwise I never go past 2nd gear....all bikes should come this way!

Any reputable bike brand in carbon (Cannondale, Scott, Giant, Trek, Spez, Pinarello...ok getting exotic) will work finelu is a giant step back.

PS I just got a great set of Spez shoes marked at R4000 for just R3200 at Complete Cyclist....They have a special and do have an outlet in cape Town.

I have a wide size 9 (usually size 44 and went with a 46 or 47...they are the bees knees!

Posted

Firstly get a good, strong rim (36 hole) build onto standard hubs using J-bend spokes. Get a good wheel builder to build these for you. Secondly there is only 1 bike in my mind that will hold your current weight... Cannondale Aluminium frame (preferably older ones like the CAAD 3,4.

 

That combo will give you longevity.

If you want carbon, then make sure its a brand that is very well backed...(Read GIANT). 

Sorry I need to correct you on longevity. Fact is that aluminium and steel fatigue, carbon does not (well not in our riding lifetimes anyway) :thumbup:

Posted

After much searching, the widest shoes I could find are Bont. I've punted them on the forum multiple times, but they are just that good.

 

I ride in Riot shoes, which are the cheap version, yet, have a stiff carbon sole, a good closure system, and are heat moldable, so you can get your fit just right. I also find the method of construction to be particularly helpful, it's basically a carbon fibre bathtub with material on top+closure system. So, instead of the usual slim slab of carbon, it curls up the sides. On other shoes, my foot would "spill over" the sides of the narrow sole and it was mega painful. Now, your feet are completely surrounded with carbon, so they stay where they should. Great fit for my very wide feet, toe box is nice and wide, even the shape suites a good more than the fancy Italian shoes I've worn previously.

Bont shoes are no longer being produced.....

Posted

Bont shoes are no longer being produced.....

Actually, where did you hear this?? I see them still punting new models everywhere, and can't find any official announcement anywhere either.

Posted

You do NOT (I repeat NOT) have to ride alu or steel.

I was 125kg for at least a year or 2 cumulatively, if not longer on and off (now 115 and dropping) and rode a Scott Cr1 and then a Cannondale Synapse and BOTH were carbon. I think both had Mavic Aksium race wheels.

I NEVER had any issues with frames and forks and only had to true the odd wheel due to my hitting something in the road (operator error). I have also never broken a spoke.

 

Don't mess about with a compact crankset, us big guys like to fly downhill....get  a 53 39 and at the back, my secret weapon is a 28 11 cassette...and don't let anybody tell you the rear derailleur cage cant handle it....James at Complete Cyclist merely adjusted my 'B' screw...I keep up with tandems on descents and have a super granny gear for steep climbs otherwise I never go past 2nd gear....all bikes should come this way!

Any reputable bike brand in carbon (Cannondale, Scott, Giant, Trek, Spez, Pinarello...ok getting exotic) will work fine. Alu is a giant step back. (Correction?)

PS I just got a great set of Spez shoes marked at R4000 for just R3200 at Complete Cyclist....They have a special and do have an outlet in cape Town.

I have a wide size 9 (usually size 44 and went with a 46 or 47...they are the bees knees!

If my correction is correct in what you intended, then you saying the British "Bike of the Year 2016" a CAAD12 ALU bike is a giant step back? The whole CAAD range is well known as some of the best frames.

 

You get plenty crappy carbon frames that don't come close to those ALU units.

 

Just saying.

Posted

You do NOT (I repeat NOT) have to ride alu or steel.

I was 125kg for at least a year or 2 cumulatively, if not longer on and off (now 115 and dropping) and rode a Scott Cr1 and then a Cannondale Synapse and BOTH were carbon. I think both had Mavic Aksium race wheels.

I NEVER had any issues with frames and forks and only had to true the odd wheel due to my hitting something in the road (operator error). I have also never broken a spoke.

 

Don't mess about with a compact crankset, us big guys like to fly downhill....get a 53 39 and at the back, my secret weapon is a 28 11 cassette...and don't let anybody tell you the rear derailleur cage cant handle it....James at Complete Cyclist merely adjusted my 'B' screw...I keep up with tandems on descents and have a super granny gear for steep climbs otherwise I never go past 2nd gear....all bikes should come this way!

Any reputable bike brand in carbon (Cannondale, Scott, Giant, Trek, Spez, Pinarello...ok getting exotic) will work finelu is a giant step back.

PS I just got a great set of Spez shoes marked at R4000 for just R3200 at Complete Cyclist....They have a special and do have an outlet in cape Town.

I have a wide size 9 (usually size 44 and went with a 46 or 47...they are the bees knees!

But what's wrong with alu and steel?? You day that like it's a bad thing.

 

I've ridden carbon, a few of them, and as a heavyweight, it's not a pleasant feeling to worry about your bike or fork every time you hit something at speed, be it a cateye or a speedbump. And let's not fool ourselves here. The few grams of weight saving (frame dependant of course) is not going to help a roadie who weights over 80kgs.

 

The peace of mind and lack of stress about components while riding is simply amazing, especially for a heavy rider like us. And you save bucks in the process, instead of forking out for ridiculously priced plastic.

Posted

Sorry I need to correct you on longevity. Fact is that aluminium and steel fatigue, carbon does not (well not in our riding lifetimes anyway) :thumbup:

Carbon generally breaks long before it has a chance to fatigue.

Posted

The fact is you get Carbon and you get Carbon. And then ... more Carbon. The CAAD frame range will put many a (much more expensive) carbon frame to shame.

Posted

But what's wrong with alu and steel?? You day that like it's a bad thing.

 

I've ridden carbon, a few of them, and as a heavyweight, it's not a pleasant feeling to worry about your bike or fork every time you hit something at speed, be it a cateye or a speedbump. And let's not fool ourselves here. The few grams of weight saving (frame dependant of course) is not going to help a roadie who weights over 80kgs.

 

The peace of mind and lack of stress about components while riding is simply amazing, especially for a heavy rider like us. And you save bucks in the process, instead of forking out for ridiculously priced plastic.

Ive also ridden alu and steel and there is nothing more compliant yet stiff than carbon....

Posted

The fact is you get Carbon and you get Carbon. And then ... more Carbon. The CAAD frame range will put many a (much more expensive) carbon frame to shame.

Just how many alu frames do you see in the pro tour....or even MTB pro series....

Posted

If my correction is correct in what you intended, then you saying the British "Bike of the Year 2016" a CAAD12 ALU bike is a giant step back? The whole CAAD range is well known as some of the best frames.

 

You get plenty crappy carbon frames that don't come close to those ALU units.

 

Just saying.

You are right in one respect. The best alu frame will outperform a crap carbon frame, but like for like, carbon will be better.

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