David Marshall Posted September 5, 2017 Posted September 5, 2017 Any thoughts on using a thread lock on the nipple threads? A mechanic who built a wheel for me years ago said he always does this, so they don’t rattle loose. But I’d think it would only complicate things further down the line when the spokes need to be retensioned or adjusted. Or do you use one that’s not so strong that you can’t move the threads later? I see Jewbacca says he uses “…a mixture of Synthetic oil lubricant and linseed oil on the threads,” which seems like the opposite advice, though I can understand not wanting the threads to seize…A well designed wheel will not need thread lock. That is enough spokes, optimum tension and strong enough components. If you start to ride wheels with reduced spoke counts and radial patterns you can't get enough tension on the wheel to prevent the flexing and the spokes from loosening. You then need tapered nipples or thread lock to prevent disaster. No problem working on the wheel at a later stage as a little heat will melt the thread lock. I always oil the spoke threads and rims where the nipple contacts the rim when building. When the wheel is finished I wash well, blow the nipples dry and leave overnight. Next day (if it is a weight weenie wheel) put a drop of Locktite 290 on each spoke/nipple joint. If the threads seize you will never be able to work on the wheel. You will cut and replace the spokes.
Brakepad Posted September 6, 2017 Posted September 6, 2017 32 spokes are enough even for heavy riders if good quality spokes and rims are used . i only build the wheels myself and from experience i learned to be a little patient: don't go strait away to the max tension , go 80% and let the wheel sit for 30 min lay it flat on the ground an gently put pressure on the rim then go to 90% and do the same ... never have to true my wheels
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.