Build or Buy

[Skinnyone]

To buy will initially work you out cheaper 9 out of 10 times as you cannot beat the bulk prices the manufacturers get the parts at.

 

However one tends to get a severe illness called upgradenitus, which the main symptom is that you cannot for the life of you leave the bike with it's standard parts, various symptoms are directly linked to the first symptom which may include late night browsing and internet surfing, severe envy when attending bike parks, depression and then incoherent voluntary shopping.

 

Upgradenitus WILL cost you a arm and a leg in the long run. In an attempt to prevent this I always suggest to build a custom bike that will suit your needs and your idea of a budget +15%. Unfortunately this is only a temporary prevention and upgradenitus will once again be triggered by paging through the Hub, any bike mag, attending to social rides/races, facebook surfing and general exposure to the cycling world.

^^^This...

 

This is the biggest thing I tell people, if you buy a complete bike then leave it as you bought it - sure if something gives in along the way then upgrade slightly when replacing - however, only one step up.

 

To buy a bike and upgrade pretty much straight away is like flushing money down the toilet...

[popcorn_skollie]

I stumbled across a killer deal a couple months back. An abandoned DJ build for only R500. I was first inline. Didn't think twice before getting in my car and making the 45 minute drive late one night just so I wouldn't miss out. For some perspective on just how good a deal it was.

 

For my R500 I got:

 

A giant stp frame.

A set of brand spanking new dartmoor raider hoops.

A Rockshox Psylo fork. The one with Easton pipes and 20mm TA

A raceface crank with chainrings and bash guard.

A 685mm bar and 50mm stem

3 tyres.

A fully built spare rear wheel 

A seatpost and saddle.

and a random bag of spare spokes, nipples, nuts and bolts, headset bearings.

 

I could not wait to build this thing up. Then I started calculating what it would cost me to throw it all together.

 

I would need a rear hub for starters.

Best deal I could get on a sensible choice would cost me R800

 

I would need spokes and nipples and have to pay for labour to lace up both wheels.

Spokes and Nipples - R900

Labour charge for lacing - R900

(Let me just say that after having a few sets of wheels laced up over the years. I'm starting to see the value in a fully built set of wheels

 

The fork needs a service - R 1000

 

I had a set of brakes laying in my parts bin.

But I would need other bits and bobs complete assembly.

 

BB - R500

Rim tape, sealent and valves - R300

Rapide SS kit - R600

Pedals - R500

Grips - R300

 

I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this.

 

The funny thing is I already have a jump bike. I don't need another one.

I instinctively jumped on a killer deal which ironically would end up costing me money I never needed to spend to begin with. As a result the build is at a standstill. Selling off the build has occurred to me. But since I'm already here. There is greater value in having the parts as spare than trying to recover my R500. So I'll just leave it at that for now.

 

While scouring the classifieds for deals on the spares I needed. A couple of DJ bikes came and went for between 3-5k. Which would have made more sense to buy than building the one I have now.

Edited January 9, 2018 by popcorn_skollie

[johanpre44]

I can give you my story about buying and building, but what I have learned is:

1. It's always cheaper to buy, if you buy a bike with parts you like/prefer.

2. It's awesome to build a bike from scratch but can be frustrating, especially if you cannot find a part you really want or are forced to buy it at a premium you are not willing to pay.

3. When buying or building make sure you get the best wheel set and fork for your money, this is also when you realize that building a bike is not necessarily more expensive.

4. Cockpit components (Saddle, seat post, bar, stem, grips) are expensive even in aluminium, but they are really crap/heavy/ugly on cheap bikes. These expensive parts are however very light and looks great.

5. Mid-range components lasts very well and is well worth the initial spend.

 

Just keep in mind that there are good cheap bikes that you will never be able to build for the same money (Silverback Sola 4 or the like). And then there are more expensive bikes with some crap parts (like the XT Edition Merida's still using Alivio grade cup and cone hubs not too mention the cheap pinned Alex rims).

 

I recently bought a Transition Smuggler at a great price and I must say if I did not buy this bike that I would probably never have tried SRAM GX drive train and Guide Brakes, solidly impressed if though the Guide's are a bit finicky at times. The price of this bike was maybe 30% more than the Frame and a RS Pike RC at regular retail Prices and I would not have been able to add the rest of the parts at the bikes regular retail price.

[solty]

Building: It's all about the chase, the hunt for the components you want, discovering others along the way that you hadn't heard of before. Anticipating their arrival, taking off the bubble wrap, admiring them. Its almost disappointing when the bike is built and it's over. You'll likely want to do it again. But different this time, maybe a 29er trail machine with 180mm rotors front and back. Or a fat bike just for fooling around.

Building is the best way to learn about bikes and demystify them. There really is nothing difficult to screwing in (or pressing in if that's how your frame works) a BB. And a headset is just some fancy branded bearings and washers.

 

Buying: Cheaper. Instant gratification.

[AmRider]

I can give you my story about buying and building, but what I have learned is:

1. It's always cheaper to buy, if you buy a bike with parts you like/prefer.

2. It's awesome to build a bike from scratch but can be frustrating, especially if you cannot find a part you really want or are forced to buy it at a premium you are not willing to pay.

3. When buying or building make sure you get the best wheel set and fork for your money, this is also when you realize that building a bike is not necessarily more expensive.

4. Cockpit components (Saddle, seat post, bar, stem, grips) are expensive even in aluminium, but they are really crap/heavy/ugly on cheap bikes. These expensive parts are however very light and looks great.

5. Mid-range components lasts very well and is well worth the initial spend.

 

Just keep in mind that there are good cheap bikes that you will never be able to build for the same money (Silverback Sola 4 or the like). And then there are more expensive bikes with some crap parts (like the XT Edition Merida's still using Alivio grade cup and cone hubs not too mention the cheap pinned Alex rims).

 

I recently bought a Transition Smuggler at a great price and I must say if I did not buy this bike that I would probably never have tried SRAM GX drive train and Guide Brakes, solidly impressed if though the Guide's are a bit finicky at times. The price of this bike was maybe 30% more than the Frame and a RS Pike RC at regular retail Prices and I would not have been able to add the rest of the parts at the bikes regular retail price.

The Smuggler is on my list of a possible ownership,looks like a good for value machine!

[mahleu]

I bought a complete used bike, then found a used frame I wanted and moved everything over.

 

Never could have afforded the frame I wanted as a built bike.

[stefmeister]

For me it's always worked out more expensive to buy. I convince myself the complete bike is the better option because it's more cost effective, and then 6 months down the line there are maybe one or two parts that have not been changed or upgraded and I have spent a fortune.

 

If you are very particular then building the bike you want from the start is cheaper. If you are going to be happy with the complete bike you buy and not make major changes to it then buying a complete bike is definitely cheaper.

 

I have vowed to only build from here on out It's a bleddy nice feeling riding a bike where you have handpicked every part and that you have built yourself as well!

You see that argument is kinda flawed, as it pertains to the initial outlay. 

Had you saved up a little longer, you probably could have bought the higher spec model from the start and avoided the upgrades.

 

There will always be parts you're bound to change when buying a complete bike, like bars, stem, saddles and of course the most important part of a bike, tyres.

Upgrading drive train components is just a waste of money, and upgrading suspension components points to buying the wrong spec bike from the start. 

 

My only gripe with complete bikes is that it still caters to the uneducated buyer. Higher spec drive train components are favoured over suspension and decent wheels. 

Eg. instead of fitting sram gx 1 x 11 and a pike upfront, manufacturers spec it with eagle gx and a revelation, or the fox/shimano equivalent of; slx/elite fit4 vs xt/performance grip.

Too much emphasis is placed on drive trains that make zero difference.

 

My philosophy is replace it when it breaks.  

[Grease_Monkey]

You see that argument is kinda flawed, as it pertains to the initial outlay. 

Had you saved up a little longer, you probably could have bought the higher spec model from the start and avoided the upgrades.

 

There will always be parts you're bound to change when buying a complete bike, like bars, stem, saddles and of course the most important part of a bike, tyres.

Upgrading drive train components is just a waste of money, and upgrading suspension components points to buying the wrong spec bike from the start.

 

My only gripe with complete bikes is that it still caters to the uneducated buyer. Higher spec drive train components are favoured over suspension and decent wheels. 

Eg. instead of fitting sram gx 1 x 11 and a pike upfront, manufacturers spec it with eagle gx and a revelation, or the fox/shimano equivalent of; slx/elite fit4 vs xt/performance grip.

Too much emphasis is placed on drive trains that make zero difference.

 

My philosophy is replace it when it breaks.  

 

Not really true. In my case I ended up buying a very well specced bike, with 1x11 XO1 components, Fox Factory level suspension that cost me close to 100k - but me being the way I am I like something different. I replaced the suspension with an MRP Ribbon fork - something that is not OEM spec on any bike at the moment, the wheels with Hope/Spank - again something that is not offered on any bike as an OEM option. The point that I am trying to make is that buying may be cheaper, or building may end up being cheaper depending on your personality and the type of components you like.

 

If you are someone like me who likes something different, then building is always going to be the better option. If you are going to buy a high end spec bike and leave it mostly the way it was bought (obviously there will be small exceptions), then buying will be cheaper.

 

But I do agree with you that complete bikes are aimed at the uneducated buyer in that brands take advantage of a cheap component such as the rear derailleur being an XT component and the rest is SLX or deore which makes the uneducated buyer think he is buying a much better bike than he actually is. I find this happens alot at the 30k mark...