Jako De Wet Posted August 21, 2019 Share I would strongly suggest going 203 F, 180 RShould make a very noticeable differenceCurrently 180 front, 160 rear.I'm also on the bigger side (1.92m and hovering either side of 100kg) so what is adequate stopping power for some is less than ideal for me, especially on a long or steep downhills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy Gordo Posted August 21, 2019 Share 200/203 front and 180 rear( i have used this combo alot, works very well but on high speed descends like helderberg I can feel the rear over heat when braking) or 200/203 front and rear ( I am currently using this and brakes are pretty much what I want. Overheating is not an issue.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jako De Wet Posted August 21, 2019 Share Mmmm, I also ride Helderberg a lot and was thinking of gooing a 203 on the back as well. Might be worthwhile looking into this.200/203 front and 180 rear( i have used this combo alot, works very well but on high speed descends like helderberg I can feel the rear over heat when braking) or 200/203 front and rear ( I am currently using this and brakes are pretty much what I want. Overheating is not an issue.) Edited August 21, 2019 by Jako De Wet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertWhitehead Posted August 21, 2019 Share I had 203's on my previous bike and currently run 180's on the new one. I found that I had to align the brakes more on the 203's than on the 180's.The reason for that in my novice mind was that on the 203's you had more spacers / washers along with the bracket which added to the movement under braking. Now as I've mentioned "Novice Mind" . This can be complete garbage but that's how I convinced myself . Anyyyy way, back to the point: 180mm rotors with XT's have been all I've needed going down some looooong @ss decents on the Baviaans. During this year's ride I only felt that I was going to see my @ss once during the whole ride and that says a bit in my opinion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeityRaid Posted August 21, 2019 Share Been great reading through this thread for the small tips.About a year ago I got into riding & got myself a Merida one-forty 700 with the intention to enjoy the downs far more than the ups. Currently, I'm primarily doing the Helderberg Shuttle days & skill parks with a trail ride every other weekend.In the future I'd like to get designated DH & trail bikes, but for the time being what sort of upgrades should I be looking at to make the One-Forty as DH & jump worthy without throwing anything out of balance? Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 21, 2019 Share Been great reading through this thread for the small tips. About a year ago I got into riding & got myself a Merida one-forty 700 with the intention to enjoy the downs far more than the ups. Currently, I'm primarily doing the Helderberg Shuttle days & skill parks with a trail ride every other weekend.In the future I'd like to get designated DH & trail bikes, but for the time being what sort of upgrades should I be looking at to make the One-Forty as DH & jump worthy without throwing anything out of balance? Biggest benefit IMO would be to put a longer air shaft in your pike / yari / whatever you've got on the front. Then things like larger rotors (if not at 200mm already) and a set of burlier tyres, if you don't already have some on there. That'll be pretty much it, IMO. Those bikes are pretty well specced out of the box, and there's nothing on Helderberg that they won't be able to handle. DeityRaid, Eddy Gordo and Jako De Wet 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeityRaid Posted August 21, 2019 Share Biggest benefit IMO would be to put a longer air shaft in your pike / yari / whatever you've got on the front. Then things like larger rotors (if not at 200mm already) and a set of burlier tyres, if you don't already have some on there. That'll be pretty much it, IMO. Those bikes are pretty well specced out of the box, and there's nothing on Helderberg that they won't be able to handle. Pretty much running the out of the box specs, but have moved the Maxxis DHR II 2.3 to the back and put a Maxxis DHR II 2.4 in front just last week. Would going from a FOX 34 Float Performance to a 36 be THAT much of an improvement? Or should I just slap on some 200mm rotors (currently 180mm) and call it a day? Captain Fastbastard Mayhem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Fastbastard Mayhem Posted August 21, 2019 Share Pretty much running the out of the box specs, but have moved the Maxxis DHR II 2.3 to the back and put a Maxxis DHR II 2.4 in front just last week. Would going from a FOX 34 Float Performance to a 36 be THAT much of an improvement? Or should I just slap on some 200mm rotors (currently 180mm) and call it a day?Ah. Hmm. If it's got the GRIP2 damper in it already then there won't be much of a difference in the performance stakes, but it'll be stiffer, and you'll definitely feel a difference on the travel (and ability to take slightly bigger hits) but biggest diff will be in the head angle decreasing a bit to give you a bit more confidence in the rough stuff. If you have the cash to burn, and get a decent price for the 34, then why the hell not... Edited August 21, 2019 by Captain Fatbastard Mayhem DeityRaid 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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