Where to find a 2x8 Speed Square Taper Crankset?

[shaper]

Excellent. Thank you. 170mm is a bit short for me but it's the simple solution!

Beggars cant be choosers!!  As you not going to find much available.  I run 170 on my TT bike and 172.5 on road bike, there not really that much of a difference and as you putting it on the IDT, shorter crank will improve your cadence and be more efficient.

[Skylark]

Nee swaer. The pedal spindle (stripped and ground to create flats either side) is in a great big MacAfric vise. Then two big men grab the spider and chainrings with cloths (one pushing, one pulling) and try to turn it it. Zip, nada, nothing. It's like the thing is welded in. It's totally weird. We got the left side out. And yes, some d@@s fitted the pedals with no lube at all many years (20?) back.

Put the crank arm in the vice(with soft jaws or wood to protect it) and then put a monkey wrench with pipe extension on the pedal spindle. I'm not surprised you haven't loosened it yet if you are trying to loosen it by grabbing the cloth covered spider and chainrings with hands, that's not going to give you nearly enough leverage.

[DieselnDust]

Put the crank arm in the vice(with soft jaws or wood to protect it) and then put a monkey wrench with pipe extension on the pedal spindle. I'm not surprised you haven't loosened it yet if you are trying to loosen it by grabbing the cloth covered spider and chainrings with hands, that's not going to give you nearly enough leverage.

 

 

But there is always that one pedal spindle that simply won't budge. Too much corrosion, so much that its like a one way bearing

[Skylark]

But there is always that one pedal spindle that simply won't budge. Too much corrosion, so much that its like a one way bearing

If the monkey wrench slips you weld a shaft onto the spindle and put the pipe on that, add some heat and it has to come loose. You need a solid vice and the bench the vice is on needs to be heavy or bolted to the floor.

 

Or the best idea is probably to cut the pedal spindle down and weld a 1/2 socket onto it and then use an impact driver to loosen it.

 

Technique is everything and hands valiantly grasping a spiky chainring through wraps of clothes is not going to cut it.

[MudLark]

Put the crank arm in the vice(with soft jaws or wood to protect it) and then put a monkey wrench with pipe extension on the pedal spindle. I'm not surprised you haven't loosened it yet if you are trying to loosen it by grabbing the cloth covered spider and chainrings with hands, that's not going to give you nearly enough leverage.

May yet give that a try. Op 'n dag. :-)

[MudLark]

Beggars cant be choosers!! As you not going to find much available. I run 170 on my TT bike and 172.5 on road bike, there not really that much of a difference and as you putting it on the IDT, shorter crank will improve your cadence and be more efficient.

Toe het ek nou maar die ding gaan staan en koop. Now if only the bike shop hadn't put the left crank arm back... That's one thing about square taper: when it's on, it's properly on!

[MudLark]

If the monkey wrench slips you weld a shaft onto the spindle and put the pipe on that, add some heat and it has to come loose. You need a solid vice and the bench the vice is on needs to be heavy or bolted to the floor.

 

Or the best idea is probably to cut the pedal spindle down and weld a 1/2 socket onto it and then use an impact driver to loosen it.

 

Technique is everything and hands valiantly grasping a spiky chainring through wraps of clothes is not going to cut it.

I can weld (not terribly well) and do have a combination arc and shielded gas welder (nice little piece of French kit). But what worries me is the heat generated, especially by arc welding. If the crank spider has not lost its hardening already, pretty likely it will have by the time I'm done welding. (?) Dunno.

 

I think I'm either going to try drilling the bugger or otherwise just hang it on the wall!

[Skylark]

I can weld (not terribly well) and do have a combination arc and shielded gas welder (nice little piece of French kit). But what worries me is the heat generated, especially by arc welding. If the crank spider has not lost its hardening already, pretty likely it will have by the time I'm done welding. (?) Dunno.

 

I think I'm either going to try drilling the bugger or otherwise just hang it on the wall!

If you don't weld to much at a time it'll be fine, you could just attach a breaker bar to the welded socket if you don't have an impact driver. Edited July 25, 2020 by Skylark

[MudLark]

If you don't weld to much at a time it'll be fine, you could just attach a breaker bar to the welded socket if you don't have an impact driver.

 

I have both an impact driver (first proper tool I ever bought, some 40 years ago) and a breaker bar. I need to get a capscrew socket of the right size to fit on the impact driver. The capscrew hole in the back of the spindle doesn't look too bad (yet) and maybe the impact driver will break the "lock". If it moves just a 0.3mm, that'll likely be enough to get the thing out. Worth a try. 

[Skylark]

I have both an impact driver (first proper tool I ever bought, some 40 years ago) and a breaker bar. I need to get a capscrew socket of the right size to fit on the impact driver. The capscrew hole in the back of the spindle doesn't look too bad (yet) and maybe the impact driver will break the "lock". If it moves just a 0.3mm, that'll likely be enough to get the thing out. Worth a try.

Ok well I assumed that cap screw if it had one would have long since been stripped by this stage.

 

Definitely hit it with the impact driver, geez I'd have assumed you'd have whipped that out as the first port of call because when sht gets real it's normally an impact driver that makes intractable problems disappear.

[MudLark]

Ok well I assumed that cap screw if it had one would have long since been stripped by this stage.

 

Definitely hit it with the impact driver, geez I'd have assumed you'd have whipped that out as the first port of call because when sht gets real it's normally an impact driver that makes intractable problems disappear.

 

 

Hello Skylark. You know how it is. I didn't have the special tool to remove the crank, so there was no way of getting it into a vice (then) and I didn't - and still don't have a socket of the right size for the impact driver. So it was easier to go the LBS and see if they could quickly solve it. Ha! I'm going to let it lie with the penetrating oil for a while. And will then see in a while about the impact driver or maybe welding something to the spindle. Though with the replacement crank now... :-)