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Posted

While we are on the seat tube diameter topic...

 

Can anyone please share their experiences using shims with dropper posts?

 

My bike has a 31.6 seat tube and the longest drop the Lyne sells for this size is a 150mm

I would like to go for as much drop as possible and they sell a 170 and 200 mm 30.9 dropper.

These can be used with a shim but I dont have a very warm and fuzzy feeling using shims.

Are my concerns valid or is there nothing to worry about, should I just use the longest drop with a shim?

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Posted

While we are on the seat tube diameter topic...

 

Can anyone please share their experiences using shims with dropper posts?

 

My bike has a 31.6 seat tube and the longest drop the Lyne sells for this size is a 150mm

I would like to go for as much drop as possible and they sell a 170 and 200 mm 30.9 dropper.

These can be used with a shim but I dont have a very warm and fuzzy feeling using shims.

Are my concerns valid or is there nothing to worry about, should I just use the longest drop with a shim?

 

Don't worry about a shim they are 100% fine. If you wanted a longer travel post with out a shim then you can spend a lot more money for no real reason. Bike Yoke and OneUp do longer and more adjustable ones but rather save the money and get a better something else where. I've had shims in 2 out of 3 dropper posts. one self-made out of coke cans and another a Lyne shim. Both worked perfectly, never moved and you couldn't even see the shim. I would get the longest drop as possible as that will help you on the trail rather than comprise for something that is a thing. 

Posted

i use a shim on my 31.6 frame with a lyne 30.9 170mm dropper fwiw.

 

I'd recommend getting a proper shim though. I first had one of those Fouriers shims and those just have a "folded" edge at the top thats also that 0.7mm...which your seat clamp mangles very quickly if you arent overly careful, and it then looks like you actually used a coke can. It then has a tendancy to start slipping into the frame with the seatpost if it all isn't done up tight enough. 

I ended up getting the Cane Creek one from isiko and it has a thicker machined edge at the top that sits on top of your seat tube.  it has been flawless. They cost a bit more at R230 but i think if you are going to buy a shim you can just as well get n proper one for 100 randelas more.

 

https://isikosports.co.za/Cane-Creek-CNC-Alloy-Seatpost-Shims-p91269136

Posted

Thanks Morne, you are exactly the person that I was hoping would comment on this tread.

 

If you were wondering, you are on the short list for a free spin (and beer) when the bike is ready

Posted (edited)

Thanks Morne, you are exactly the person that I was hoping would comment on this tread.

 

If you were wondering, you are on the short list for a free spin (and beer) when the bike is ready

haha.  :thumbup:

 

I have been following it.

i've posted this to death on here but i'll post it again. Here's a silly one i built not to long ago. it has a new home now...but it was hella fun.

 

Edited by morneS555
Posted

ANother noob builders question.  Can i use any crank if i want to run an  12 speed casstette and derailer .  Does eg a slx cranks from a 11 speed work on eagle chain and casstette?

Posted (edited)

ANother noob builders question. Can i use any crank if i want to run an 12 speed casstette and derailer . Does eg a slx cranks from a 11 speed work on eagle chain and casstette?

Simple answer: yes, but the frame probably needs to be non-boost for the best chainline on a 12spd casette.

 

Longer answer: depending on the frame/crank combo..you might get away with running a non boost crank on a boost frame. Case and point..i run a non boost crank on my boost frame. BUT...that crank has a chainline of 51mm Ish (Shimano saint) which meant I could get it in the right spot aka 52mm ish with a 1mm spindle spacer on my driveside. I think the slx Non boost ones run around 47mm?

 

Edit: shimano website says m7000 chainline is 50mm. So imo it would Not be too crazy. Anything within 2mm should work fine in my experience. If it clears the chainstay it should work fine. You’ll know if you back pedal in the granny gear and it pulls the chain down the cassette. But i’ll risk 50mm lol

 

Again, only really an ‘issue’ on boost frames Ito chain line.

Edited by morneS555
Posted

Simple answer: yes, but the frame probably needs to be non-boost for the best chainline on a 12spd casette.

 

Longer answer: depending on the frame/crank combo..you might get away with running a non boost crank on a boost frame. Case and point..i run a non boost crank on my boost frame. BUT...that crank has a chainline of 51mm Ish (Shimano saint) which meant I could get it in the right spot aka 52mm ish with a 1mm spindle spacer on my driveside. I think the slx Non boost ones run around 47mm?

 

Again, only really an ‘issue’ on boost frames Ito chain line.

Thanks Morne

 

Ok the slade trail is a boost frame so i will go with a boost crank for simplicity sake.  But  will there be no issue running different 12 speed setups .  Can i mix and match shimano, sram and sunrace?

Posted

Thanks Morne

 

Ok the slade trail is a boost frame so i will go with a boost crank for simplicity sake.  But  will there be no issue running different 12 speed setups .  Can i mix and match shimano, sram and sunrace?

Lots of people do. For sanity ill keep the shifter and derailleur the same brand...even though you kan play around there too if you wanted to go full Franken-mcgyver.

Posted

- Headset ZS44/EC44

 

Any help with sourcing a headset would help, looked at all the online shops that I know of and can't seem to find stock. Preferred brands are Hope/Cane Creek 

 

Did you get any joy for this headset? I'm looking for the same and iziko haven't bothered to get back to me so am looking at options / costs. 

Posted

Did you get any joy for this headset? I'm looking for the same and iziko haven't bothered to get back to me so am looking at options / costs. 

Haven't phoned or ordered yet but looks like the below is what I need:

 

Top: ZS44/28.6/H8/K

https://isikosports.co.za/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Top-Assembly-Headsets-p91156701

 

Bottom: EC44/40/H12/K

https://isikosports.co.za/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Bottom-Assembly-Headsets-p91158449

 

Don't have a clue what the HXX / K part implies.

I'll find out before I order though 

Posted (edited)

Haven't phoned or ordered yet but looks like the below is what I need:

 

Top: ZS44/28.6/H8/K

https://isikosports.co.za/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Top-Assembly-Headsets-p91156701

 

Bottom: EC44/40/H12/K

https://isikosports.co.za/Cane-Creek-40-Series-Bottom-Assembly-Headsets-p91158449

 

Don't have a clue what the HXX / K part implies.

I'll find out before I order though

 

The H refers to the stack height in mm. So h12 on the bottom cup means it sits 12mm proud of the frame after it is pressed in. Same with the top that says h8. After it is all pressed an in place it will sit 8mm total above the frame. So lets say your head tube is 120mm and your bottom headset is 12mm, top is 8mm, your stem is 40mm and you want to put 40mm worth of spacers under your stem...you’ll need a fork steerer lenght of minimum 220mm long.

 

Edit: you see the slamset has a H2. Thats as flat as you’ll get...2mm

Edited by morneS555
Posted

While we are on the seat tube diameter topic...

 

Can anyone please share their experiences using shims with dropper posts?

 

My bike has a 31.6 seat tube and the longest drop the Lyne sells for this size is a 150mm

I would like to go for as much drop as possible and they sell a 170 and 200 mm 30.9 dropper.

These can be used with a shim but I dont have a very warm and fuzzy feeling using shims.

Are my concerns valid or is there nothing to worry about, should I just use the longest drop with a shim?

100% fine. I have had to sell too many droppers when changing frames because the droppers were too big. Now I just buy droppers in 30.9 regardless of frame size and shim. No issues to date.

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