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Worn out Dura-Ace crank


NotSoBigBen

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Just wondering, can a Dura Ace crank 'spindle' wear out (external BB)? Here's the scenario, crank used for a long time (years!) but eventually it is not possible to tighten the non drive side enough. It keeps coming loose!

 

The non-drive side crank has been replaced but it makes no difference, thus leading me believe that it is something to do with the actual 'spindle' thingy on the shaft ........
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Of course it will wear out Ben' date=' it's Shimano....[/quote']

 

Yoh OuchLOL

 

I was hoping it could be saved or ressurected (sp?) somehow Big%20smile
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Where is that article again of the scampy BB oozing out grease and they actually had to redesign the whole thing.

 

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BB this is just a thought but might be worth a try.

 

There is a small plate which goes in the slot in the crank and is supposed to prevent overtightening and also prevent the crank coming off if it comes loose.

 

When I first got my Dura Ace (second hand) the plate was missing so I rode for some time with out it. Try taking it out, you should be able to tighten the crank more, just be careful not to overtighten or it might crack.

 
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Perhaps I need to change the heading to bash Shimano here you Kempekker lovers Wink

Hopefully someone knowledgable (thanks IanJ) does read and comment, the rest of you have been about as much use to me as a glass eyeLOL
BigBen2008-06-30 01:15:22
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Perhaps I need to change the heading to bash Shimano here you Kempekker lovers Wink

Hopefully someone knowledgable (thanks IanJ) does read and comment' date=' the rest of you have been about as much use to me as a glass eyeLOL
[/quote']

 

BB I agree with you, not much point in having a Tech Q&A forum if people just post sh!t. May as well post under chit chat and sit back and wait for the bullsh!t to start.

 

 
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It is also possible to replace the two small cap screws that tighten the non-drive side crank to the spindle - these do tend to distort over time making it difficult to tighten properly. Make sure you get the DA bolts (available from Coolheat) as they differ from the other cranks - they are shorter. Cost about R18 for both.

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Agreed, replace the bolts as stated above, remove that little filler and then torque up to the top end of the torque range specified on the crank arm (there was a little torque sticker on there when it was new).

 

Use a 1/4" drive torque wrench. PRO (shimano/coolheat) supply one which is quite good. BBB also do nice looking one which is a tad cheaper, but I've never used on so can't comment on how good it is.

 

I wouldn't expect to see excesive wear on the splined steel crank axle tube, but if you do, then I'de suggest you're pretty much out of luck and will have to replace the entire set (hang on to the chain rings though - they cost a bomb) . Or get a set of arms off ebay - they quite often have them where they have stripped for the chainring.

 

Hope this helps

 

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Thanks Greatwhite / cycleq / IanJ. Will try these tips out and see what transpires!

 

Will report back ........
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Do you have a pic. 

 

I am not to sure what the problem is, but if its the spindle and you really want to save it you could look at putting in a shim. Coca Cola makes really nice onesWink.
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Do you have a pic. 

 

I am not to sure what the problem is' date=' but if its the spindle and you really want to save it you could look at putting in a shim. Coca Cola makes really nice onesWink.
[/quote']

 

Don't think you could use a shim, it is the Dura Ace Splined shaft.

 

 
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Wink Would n't know. The only outboard bearing crank I have is a FSA.  Ox_Wagon2008-06-30 05:48:41
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