DieselnDust Posted September 2, 2020 Share Just in case someone experiences the same as me in the future, I would advise taking the crank and losening all the bolts then applying the correct torque (4Nm and 12Nm). It worked for me ! also expect a bit of resettling after changing the chainrings. It will return weird readings. I'd recommend the SRAM rings everytime. The FSA will give you high numbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbr Posted September 2, 2020 Share yes the ovals apparently give higher readings, now the problem was the massive difference between the power at the crank and the one at the rear wheel. Now since I applied the correct torque on both sides of the spider the readings seemed more "normal" yesterday in the ZHR race so today I compared with the tacx and it's more similar, the tacx being a little bit under sometimes and a little bit higher other times but you can't expect a R5000 smart trainer to be perfect, but at least now everything seems consistent with what I measured in the past on my other crankbased PMs. I'm not expecting to have an FTP as high on these chainrings as with the old oval ones just now but at least now it doesn't look like I lost 60 watts anymore Edited September 2, 2020 by Jbr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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