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Advice - MTB Carbon Wheelset


Dup08

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12 minutes ago, LazyTrailRider said:

For me, the most important factor is impact resistance.

Yes, I know a carbon rim will crack if you hit it REALLY hard, but that's the thing: you have to hit it REALLY hard.

I can't even count the number of dings I've put into alloy rims over the years, very often with a loss of tubeless seal and a walk home. I've ridden mostly carbon since 2015 and have NEVER cracked anything even with some pretty gnarly enduro riding. In comparison, I went back to an alloy set on a secondary bike earlier in the year and managed to ding the rear not once, but twice in 6 months at the same pressures.

I'm light at 69kg and ride very low pressure (16psi fr / 19psi rear) and I'm pretty smooth and slow, which definitely affects the equation, but even with that smoothness/slowness I still managed to ding alloy...

Awesome thank you for the info I really appreciate it. 

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I am currently own and using a set of Spank 395 rims on hope pro 4 hubs. But need boost hubs. (  I know you get boost adapter kits XD) 

I do xco riding so the spank wheels that I own is way to much for me lol. 395 external, 345 internal.

So was thinking maybe it better to sell my wheels and build up a nice set for xco riding. But damn its pricey.

 

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13 minutes ago, LazyTrailRider said:

For me, the most important factor is impact resistance.

Yes, I know a carbon rim will crack if you hit it REALLY hard, but that's the thing: you have to hit it REALLY hard.

I can't even count the number of dings I've put into alloy rims over the years, very often with a loss of tubeless seal and a walk home. I've ridden mostly carbon since 2015 and have NEVER cracked anything even with some pretty gnarly enduro riding. In comparison, I went back to an alloy set on a secondary bike earlier in the year and managed to ding the rear not once, but twice in 6 months at the same pressures.

I'm light at 69kg and ride very low pressure (16psi fr / 19psi rear) and I'm pretty smooth and slow, which definitely affects the equation, but even with that smoothness/slowness I still managed to ding alloy...

Im on the complete other side of the spectrum, im 95kg, and ride as hard as I possibly can and still not a single problem with carbon and thats with a relatively cheap Giant rim.

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1 minute ago, Phillippe Coetzee said:

I am currently own and using a set of Spank 395 rims on hope pro 4 hubs. But need boost hubs. (  I know you get boost adapter kits XD) 

I do xco riding so the spank wheels that I own is way to much for me lol. 395 external, 345 internal.

So was thinking maybe it better to sell my wheels and build up a nice set for xco riding. But damn its pricey.

I just bought a new set of Roval Traverse SLs and I'm going to put a set of Traverse Carbons (with a DT Swiss star ratchet rear hub) up for R8k soon. They're also 30mm internal but I think they're more in the all-round trail category than the Spanks 😆

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3 minutes ago, LazyTrailRider said:

I just bought a new set of Roval Traverse SLs and I'm going to put a set of Traverse Carbons (with a DT Swiss star ratchet rear hub) up for R8k soon. They're also 30mm internal but I think they're more in the all-round trail category than the Spanks 😆

Pm sent!

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2 minutes ago, LazyTrailRider said:

I just bought a new set of Roval Traverse SLs and I'm going to put a set of Traverse Carbons (with a DT Swiss star ratchet rear hub) up for R8k soon. They're also 30mm internal but I think they're more in the all-round trail category than the Spanks 😆

Bargain.

As with all Rovals, remove the rim tape and look inside at the nipples. If they've become white (corrosion) then replace the nipples with brass. I see corroded nipple heads popping of on a regular basis - you think a spoke's broken, but it's actually the nipple.

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16 hours ago, Phillippe Coetzee said:

I really did not know 400g on rotation can make such a big difference, obviously when you haven't felt or experienced it, its harder to understand but very interesting. 

next time you tinkering with front wheel. Hold the axle(be careful to keep the brake rotor away from fingers) and spin the wheel and then try turn the wheel left to right. Then remove the tyre and do the same thing spinning it at roughly the same speed. It is quite a difference.

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