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  1. I have that some days, kick yourself awake as you are passing out. But I also kick away all not regularly. The wife is ok with the twitches, but after big races I am sent to sleep on a rubber sheet in the spare room because I have hellish night sweats after big efforts
  2. Interesting that it helps with the muscle twitches while sleeping, I have kicked the jack russel out of bed by mistake with random muscles twitches all the time. The wife says she knows when I have passed out by the legs kicking randomly antics. Will maybe try slowmag again and see if it helps. That is the real truth is that there are so many things that could cause cramps and in each person it is very different. Same goes for stomach issues, each stomach is different. So what works for others way not work for you as well. You need to try a lot of different things.
  3. I have seen a setup with a conveyor belt for printing bed. Means you can then increment with the 4th axis and print long long parts on a small bed. That way you could print a long honeycomb structure. https://www.hackster.io/news/learn-how-to-add-a-conveyor-belt-to-your-3d-printer-2f9bd2c2b960 My 2c though is to get a proper monitor bracket like a North Bayou, clears up rout desk, gets the monitors up where your neck hurts less ad tidies up cables.
  4. was just pointing out 100 milers, there are quite a few in this country, so in running terms there are things done in 'freedom units" in the SA running scene.
  5. I have just retired a Led lensor SEO7r after 5 years of racing. It has done 3 expedition races, a hundred miler and about 20 24-36hour AR's. I would highly recommend, what was nice is that it has a rechargeable battery that you can take out and put AAA's in the place. So day to day you are not killing the environment churning through AAA's but when you need to just change on the move you can revert to AAA's. The lamp is actually still in perfect shape, the strap is just totally kaput. I have no ultra's other than comrades on the to do list this year, so the mrs got me a NEO1R from led lensor. It is not great for more than 3 hours on full brightness. but as a day to day running headlamp it is brilliant, light, comfortable and just enough light to run. Unfortunately the battery life is not ready for a full night of running and you can't just change battery. An alternative and actually a really good one- use your bicycle headlight. I have a head strap for my Ryder Orion 800, long cable puts the battery in the top of the back pack. On it's lowest setting you get major run time and better lumens than most headlamps on mid/low settings.
  6. I haven't been to tranquilitas in 2 years, but the trails were mint there last time. Lovely flowing sections, tough technical climbs and a lovely ridgeline section round to the dirt road. We usually go there to rock climb, but I think they are more catering to the mtb scene nowadays. Still arguably one of the best rock climbing spots in SA...
  7. I got hit from behind by a BMW 1200 GS last year, the crash bar hit the rear derailleur, battery cover took the impact and was found a good 20m from the crash. Derailleur, battery, dropout and everything survived perfectly. I was like 50km into a 260km race so it was really not ideal. I think that little bit of protection is better than nothing, but I also think the clutch system will take the impact anyway and protect a lot.
  8. I was thinking this might be a good one for a 3d printed part. I forgot to put mine back on for one of the biggest rides/races I did last year, really not such an issue
  9. all 100mile trail races are based around miles, usually a waterpoint every 10miles ±16km so it actually works for me haha
  10. ya I should probably have tried a 21 at some stage, still never raced on on tar either. Going in a little blind... 10/10/10 makes sense, much like Jewbacca's suggestion, hold, hold, hold, 10km time trial mode. Think I might go rogue on the weekend and push a 21 to gauge pace a bit better as well.
  11. So who here has successfully guessed their marathon goal straight out of the gate? It is flippen tough wanting to be too competitive with yourself when you have never done something before. No full or even half marathon on road to use as an estimate. I still haven't run on tar at all this year and I have trained at 1600m and will race at sea level. The devil on one shoulder says just send it on the day and run on feel. Angel on the other says take it easy and aim for a safe goal. I have been checking on garmin's race predictor, obviously I would prefer to beat it. But is it a good safe goal to chase and then with 5km to go- just go off like a cut snake and hope you make the line?
  12. Wall mounts, sketchy travelling, working on the bike upside down, often the brakes get bumped and the air in reservoir goes into the system. Cars also are not weight weenie-ing to the max so the seals and build is often a lot stronger, with power assist brakes as well the seals can stick a lot more, but with a bicycle your hand must actuate that piston so they can't get too much of a tight fit/seal. Ford ranger service schedule says new brake fluid every 2 years.
  13. Ya 78kg is not too much for 100mm. What is the actual issue you are having with the front end that made you want to change?
  14. You ever lost half your breaking capacity 180km into a 400km national offroad motorcycle race on a 2t with relatively no engine braking available... I have, that is why I am particular about what goes into my brakes. We squeezed 4 of our bikes into a van with all kit and camping gear to go to the race and when we arrived I realised my brakes were super spongey. Could only get DOT3 brake fluid at the local town nearest the race and because we were so tight on space no one brought any. That fluid boiled after a few hours and it was a super fun day out for the rest of the day. So I have my reasons, it is not a fun lesson to learn the hard way.
  15. So on most of the motorbikes you always have a heat insulator between the pad and the brake caliper/piston. I have boiled far to many rear brakes on offroad motorbikes. It is one of the worst thing to happen when you really need your breaks and they just fade or the pedal/lever loses all pressure. MTB calipers never have that insulator so I am always weary. My concern with it is if you need to bleed brakes in a hurry and can't find Shimano or another good mineral oil and all of a sudden without knowing it you are putting in an oil that boils at 2/3rds of the manufacturers oils boiling point and then expecting it to perform. Motorex is one of the higher boiling point mineral oils, it boils 120dec C hotter than the Magura mineral oil. You put in any DOT5,1 and you know the minimum boiling point is exactly the same through any brand you can get your hands on in a rush. Also you can walk into midas/autozone/mica/chamberlains and get brake fluid. As soon as you need mineral oil for brakes you are going to get torn a fresh one by a bicycle or motorbike specialty brand and supplier. Shimano mineral oil is nearly R140/liter more expensive than a good motul dot 5,1 fluid.
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