Rockshox SiD scuff

[LucasV]

Why would a front shock scuff like that? Is it the bottom tube or the pillar? Is this costly to repair or replace the faulty part?

And where can I have this looked at/repaired in Stellies/Paarl area

[RobertWhitehead]

That's what's referred to as stanchion wear, talk to @droo about the rest 😁. 

From my experience it normally happens when the fork hasn't been serviced and it runs dry. But as I said, I know very little 😜

Edited October 21, 2025 by RobertWhitehead
More info

[droo]

Thanks @RobertWhitehead. You are indeed on the money there (more on this theme in a bit.)

@LucasV that's caused by hundreds of hours of neglect. Think of it as 100 000km in your car without an oil change.

From what I can see there that's a 2014 / 2015 SID, so you won't get OE parts for it anymore. We can sort, but at R 6k + (assuming both sides are shot) you're probably better off looking for a replacement that's in better shape and keeping up with your servicing.

[LucasV]

@drooHere is a number at the back...does that say anything ito model?

[dave303e]

100 hour fork service is an absolute nightmare if you doing any serious training. 

[droo]

15 hours ago, BaGearA said:

Made in 2012 

 

As droo says no spare available but the bushings are mainly what causes the wear seen and they aren't replaceable on rockshox forks anyway.

 

Buy something more modern and keep up with the oil changes 100 hours max and ideally do the dust wipers same time.

RS bushings are replaceable, you just can't get parts from Rockshox. I have heaps of spares though.

1 hour ago, dave303e said:

100 hour fork service is an absolute nightmare if you doing any serious training. 

So is buying a new fork every year or two IMO, but to each their own...

[LucasV]

Thanks for all the inputs...! Always learning something new here on the forums...

Just for interest sake and I am not an expert.

I have Googled and used chat gpt (like my kids do 😉) and it seems as if the serial number points to manufacturing in the Tawain factory in 2022. But thats Google and Chat - both asked what the diameter of the stanchions (32mm or 35mm) are and that I dont know. At the back of the fork the "model" refers to (XX1/29")...there's no other labels apart from the normal decals. It does have a remote lock out, has 100mm travel and weighs 1.7kg. 

I picked it up second hand for a steal, but was not aware of the scuff mark on the left stanchion until I actually had it in my hand...so I wanted to explore possible repair remedies. Repairing at R6k+will probably not happen.

On my previous bike (a Giant XCT carbon I had the exact same fork and it worked great for me. I now have a Niner RDO with a REBBA fork...so the ideas was to replace that with the SID.

I am still old school so I will probably take it to a "human" here in Stellies to have a look... 

.

.

So after talking to Chat GPT - answering questions and uploading pictures to identify the fork (I honestly didnt know Chat goes to that extent, but my grade 10 daughter taught me this last night!)

And just for the record, I dont take the CHAT feedback as gospel...it was just mind blowing how it worked systematically through everything, but here is its recommendation to me:

  What you should do next, step-by-step

1. Inspect the stanchions carefully:

   • Look for deep scratches, gouges, pitting, or blistering under the finish.

   • Run a clean microfiber cloth loaded with a little suspension-friendly oil up and down the stanchion while compressing and extending the fork slowly — feel for any “catches” or irregularities.

   • If you find severe damage → plan for upper tube replacement or full fork leg replacement.

2. Identify the exact model variant of your fork (to make sure you get the correct parts):

   • Stanchion diameter (32mm vs 35mm)

   • Wheel size (29″ you already know)

   • Check for model code (e.g., FS-SID-ULT-C1, etc.)

   • The “XX1/29″” marking you mentioned suggests it’s a top‐tier model for 29″ wheels.

   • The service manual confirms parts availability for 2021-2023 models. SRAM

3. Order the correct service parts:

   • At minimum: dust seals, wiper rings, O-rings, oil/grease, hardware (bolts) as in the service kit.

   • If wear is moderate: order the service kit for your model (e.g., the 35mm version) and plan to replace or refurbish stanchions if needed.

   • If the stanchions are too worn: contact RockShox/SRAM or certified service center to see if upper tubes or a replacement leg assembly is available for your model.

4. Service frequency & preventative measures:

   • The 2021-2023 SID manual states recommended service intervals: every ride clean upper tubes, every ~50 hrs lower-leg service, every ~200 hrs full damper/spring service. SRAM

   • After you repair or replace the required parts, ensure you maintain the fork properly to avoid future premature wear.

5. If parts are not readily available locally:

   • In South Africa you may need to contact a local SRAM/RockShox distributor or bike shop who can import the correct parts.

   • Because it’s just a few years old, parts should still be in production or available as “spare” stock.

   • Use the RockShox spare parts catalog.

[JoeMerida]

20 hours ago, LucasV said:

Why would a front shock scuff like that? Is it the bottom tube or the pillar? Is this costly to repair or replace the faulty part?

And where can I have this looked at/repaired in Stellies/Paarl area

You can also just do a lowers service and keep on riding it like that. It's not dangerous . It will get worse eventually. 

PS I will probably get Flamed for posting this LOL.

Edited October 22, 2025 by JoeMerida

[droo]

49 minutes ago, JoeMerida said:

You can also just do a lowers service and keep on riding it like that. It's not dangerous . It will get worse eventually. 

PS I will probably get Flamed for posting this LOL.

If the Reba that it's replacing is in decent shape he'd be going backwards by doing this, but it'll still hold the front wheel on for a while, so technically still functions as a fork.

There will be enough bushing play to annoy most people, and the small bump sensitivity will be nonexistent even with an oil change.

2 hours ago, LucasV said:

Thanks for all the inputs...! Always learning something new here on the forums...

Just for interest sake and I am not an expert.

I have Googled and used chat gpt (like my kids do 😉) and it seems as if the serial number points to manufacturing in the Tawain factory in 2022. But thats Google and Chat - both asked what the diameter of the stanchions (32mm or 35mm) are and that I dont know. At the back of the fork the "model" refers to (XX1/29")...there's no other labels apart from the normal decals. It does have a remote lock out, has 100mm travel and weighs 1.7kg. 

I picked it up second hand for a steal, but was not aware of the scuff mark on the left stanchion until I actually had it in my hand...so I wanted to explore possible repair remedies. Repairing at R6k+will probably not happen.

On my previous bike (a Giant XCT carbon I had the exact same fork and it worked great for me. I now have a Niner RDO with a REBBA fork...so the ideas was to replace that with the SID.

I am still old school so I will probably take it to a "human" here in Stellies to have a look... 

.

.

So after talking to Chat GPT - answering questions and uploading pictures to identify the fork (I honestly didnt know Chat goes to that extent, but my grade 10 daughter taught me this last night!)

And just for the record, I dont take the CHAT feedback as gospel...it was just mind blowing how it worked systematically through everything, but here is its recommendation to me:

  What you should do next, step-by-step

1. Inspect the stanchions carefully:

   • Look for deep scratches, gouges, pitting, or blistering under the finish.

   • Run a clean microfiber cloth loaded with a little suspension-friendly oil up and down the stanchion while compressing and extending the fork slowly — feel for any “catches” or irregularities.

   • If you find severe damage → plan for upper tube replacement or full fork leg replacement.

2. Identify the exact model variant of your fork (to make sure you get the correct parts):

   • Stanchion diameter (32mm vs 35mm)

   • Wheel size (29″ you already know)

   • Check for model code (e.g., FS-SID-ULT-C1, etc.)

   • The “XX1/29″” marking you mentioned suggests it’s a top‐tier model for 29″ wheels.

   • The service manual confirms parts availability for 2021-2023 models. SRAM

3. Order the correct service parts:

   • At minimum: dust seals, wiper rings, O-rings, oil/grease, hardware (bolts) as in the service kit.

   • If wear is moderate: order the service kit for your model (e.g., the 35mm version) and plan to replace or refurbish stanchions if needed.

   • If the stanchions are too worn: contact RockShox/SRAM or certified service center to see if upper tubes or a replacement leg assembly is available for your model.

4. Service frequency & preventative measures:

   • The 2021-2023 SID manual states recommended service intervals: every ride clean upper tubes, every ~50 hrs lower-leg service, every ~200 hrs full damper/spring service. SRAM

   • After you repair or replace the required parts, ensure you maintain the fork properly to avoid future premature wear.

5. If parts are not readily available locally:

   • In South Africa you may need to contact a local SRAM/RockShox distributor or bike shop who can import the correct parts.

   • Because it’s just a few years old, parts should still be in production or available as “spare” stock.

   • Use the RockShox spare parts catalog.

If you bring the Reba in for a service I might be able to give you some discount for the dead fork - depending on condition I may be able to use some of the spares to save someone else's day.

ChatGPT is sadly well misinformed on some of the specifics, that's a SID XX which hasn't been produced since (I think) 2015. No CSUs available anymore, so I'd need to replace individual stanchion tubes and bushings which isn't a cheap job.