capediver Posted February 23 Posted February 23 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Zebra said: …not the question you asked, but here goes… If fitting Tri-bars for the longer open road/Bike-packing, then they make a VERY good ‘base’ to suspend a ‘between the bars’ bike-packing bag; admittedly not as low a C.O.G. as left & right LOW FRONT panniers, b-u-t it makes for a VERY stable, ‘centralized’ load, which practically slips on/slips off, worth a thought?! (am currently experimenting with it; the Tri-bars save on needing to fit a stand-off bag rack/cradle, I will snap a pic, etc, and post here…) (many years ago, i was a fan of pannier bags DIRECTLY over/on the front axle, with a 70 rear, 30 front weight ratio…). Nice setup, but times are a-changing! Chris Here you go....Redshift Kitchen sink bar bag....made for their Kitchen Sink Bar but as you can see fits any aerobar set if set up correctly...about 1L with extender unzipped... There are other bags available (Restrap - holster type which means you can't access on the go, Cyclite (great stuff but mucho denari!)... DIY...if you don't need access, you can fit a cross bar between the aerobars and sling a small roll top bag in there with bungee cords... Another DIY...hang a few feed bags between the bars! Edited February 23 by capediver Added info Zebra 1
capediver Posted March 18 Posted March 18 (edited) OK so first test climb up a short 18% er near me....bike was not fully loaded...ended up not going all the up to the 50 as I was spinning out! and easy climb so yeah, obviously it does work. Some things I did find: B-screw is almost maxed in to give sufficient clearance from the upper pulley when in the 50 Fine tuning the rear GRX has been a mare...(new cable and routing with Jagwire outers) The front derailleur does have some rubbing on the plastic bumpers inside the chain guide when in the 50 and small chain ring, as the chain comes into the front derailleur much higher...the plastic bumper seems to be designed with a thinner section a bit lower for the standard 42 in back....I may thin the bumper a bit but this may affect the front derailleur range? Chain length is an issue.. I cannot shorten the chain as it is fairly tight when on largest gear in back and front ....so when in 11 at back and small front chain ring up front, there is significant slack...and I know, lotsa cross chain so I will be avoiding that combo and go up in front as I go down in back... Cross chain is much more hectic It is not as quiet as standard setup, even when not touching the guides up front and positive cassette changes...it sounds like the pulleys are getting hammered...but that doesn't make sense as they are independent of the size of the cassette rings?...maybe they need to "bed" in with the new chain? The extension piece did rotate out of the best line to the point that the chain was extremely slack until I figured this out and had to really tighten it hard to prevent this...it does not have a "stopper" machined into it to keep it in the perfect angle to get the best extension and can slip if not torqued to the max But all good, I'll run this system in before I give a final verdict...one thing this is obvious though, gonna need mucho RedBull if the bike is able to do major climbing, but the pilot is not! Edited March 18 by capediver Grammar U1Nanimous 1
U1Nanimous Posted March 20 Author Posted March 20 Yes, it does need some adjusting... B-screw, seems right. There is a bit more focus needed on gear selection, not to cross chain, but I managed to get my chain setup to the point where the slack is not too big an issue, but would not ride it in slack obviously. It takes some getting used to. One thing I did notice on mine... The bike had an unplanned, unmanned, horizontal spontaneous dismount. There was a slight bend in the hanger, which threw out the gears to a horrible degree. I think the extended reach has a multiplier effect if even out a little bit. I fixed it with the Hanger Alignment Tool, Park Tools have a great one, but the chinese ones will also work. So maybe also check the hanger, and it might help a bit. Yes, the design of the extender could be improved, but I think it is designed to be a flexible application as not all settings on all bikes would be done the same. I actually looked at this not too long ago, and thought I would like to take the std hanger and extender as a unit to an engineering shop and see if they can't CNC me one as a single unit... Anyone with connections? Also, last remark, mine runs without any significant sound; in fact, I would say the same as the original setup, but I also adjusted the front mech (on the original setup). Might come down to frame design and alignment? Doing a little trip this weekend. Decided to test the full rig setup. Will let you guys know how it went... (Spot the Moto bags)
capediver Posted March 20 Posted March 20 (edited) Noisy chain solved....put original Shimano chain back...quiet as a mouse! And removed that plastic bush inside front derailleur guide.....so no rubbing, chain length just happened to be perfect, a little tight when on dinner plate and smaller chain ring up front but there's still some play in the derailleur cage so we should be all good! Now a gap to ride!!! Edited March 20 by capediver
capediver Posted March 20 Posted March 20 5 hours ago, U1Nanimous said: Yes, it does need some adjusting... B-screw, seems right. There is a bit more focus needed on gear selection, not to cross chain, but I managed to get my chain setup to the point where the slack is not too big an issue, but would not ride it in slack obviously. It takes some getting used to. One thing I did notice on mine... The bike had an unplanned, unmanned, horizontal spontaneous dismount. There was a slight bend in the hanger, which threw out the gears to a horrible degree. I think the extended reach has a multiplier effect if even out a little bit. I fixed it with the Hanger Alignment Tool, Park Tools have a great one, but the chinese ones will also work. So maybe also check the hanger, and it might help a bit. Yes, the design of the extender could be improved, but I think it is designed to be a flexible application as not all settings on all bikes would be done the same. I actually looked at this not too long ago, and thought I would like to take the std hanger and extender as a unit to an engineering shop and see if they can't CNC me one as a single unit... Anyone with connections? Also, last remark, mine runs without any significant sound; in fact, I would say the same as the original setup, but I also adjusted the front mech (on the original setup). Might come down to frame design and alignment? Doing a little trip this weekend. Decided to test the full rig setup. Will let you guys know how it went... (Spot the Moto bags) Nice compact rig....just what's that up front on the bars. ...and that rear rack...floating? No uprights from axle for stability?
NC_lurker Posted March 20 Posted March 20 32 minutes ago, capediver said: I'm struggling to see it, but I'm sure it's there somewhere...how have you stopped the kitchen sink from rattling on corrugations 😉
capediver Posted March 20 Posted March 20 12 minutes ago, NC_lurker said: I'm struggling to see it, but I'm sure it's there somewhere...how have you stopped the kitchen sink from rattling on corrugations 😉 Sink is rubber...no problems... NC_lurker 1
NC_lurker Posted March 20 Posted March 20 (edited) On a more useful note... I ran a Rapide hanger extender on my Sequoia for years to allow me to run a Shimano 2x11 setup (48/32) with a 42 at the back. Shifting was a little rough in the middle couple of gears but perfectly usable. Definitely worthwhile having the extra gearing when loaded. Edited March 20 by NC_lurker Clarity
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