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tubeless vs sludge


Slowbee

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Hi Guys

 

Ok, so enough of punctures. Time to get high tech.

 

Question tho.

 

Which is better, to go tubeless, or to stick with tubes, but fill 'em with sludge/stan/joes stuff ? Confused

 

If you do puncture on a ride, do you then just insert a tube to get you home ??

 

 

 

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Just go with Dr Sludge or CST tubes. I have not changes a tube in 2800km. These tubes even have removable cores so you can top them up aswell if you want to.

 

 
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tried GIRR, but no such luck - found lots on one or the other - but I just need to decide which is the better of the two based on riders experience

 

 

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Mampara ... CST??

 

It's a brand. You will find it easier then Dr Sludge.

 

http://store.airbomb.com/mmAIRBOMB/Images/large/q/TU6500.jpg

 

 
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tried GIRR' date=' but no such luck - found lots on one or the other - but I just need to decide which is the better of the two based on riders experience

[/quote']

 

From my experience I've never had a problem with punctures when using both slime in tubes or tubeless.

 

I still rather use tubeless as you can run lower tyre pressures and it seals punctures instantly without a doubt.  I've also used stans rim strips and the ghetto system with the 20'' BMX tubes and found both work just as well.
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and, slowbee, joe's and stan's are primarliy sealants to convert conventional tyres to tubeless. sludge is a puncture-prevention type sealant.

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Not wanting to get into a tubeless vs slimed tubes discussion as both have their merits but you are correct that should you have an unsealable puncture on tubeless you can put in a tube but it aint pretty ......

 

There's Joes/Stans everywhere, you need to remove the rim strip (carefully so as not to damage it for when you decide to put it back). You also must, this is not negotiable lads, check the tyre for thorns that have been sealed in the past but without a doubt will puncture your newly inserted tube almost immediately!
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I've used Dr Sludge tubes for more than a year without major hassles. I only replaced 1 tube due to it getting a snakebite. I used to run pretty low pressures as well (under 2 bar).

 

I'm on tubeless now, still waiting to see how/if that works out for me. Slime tubes are much cheaper and easier than a tubeless conversion, so maybe go there first, and go tubeless one day when you get new tyres.

 

 

Hog_2008-09-02 04:09:28

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sheeeeeeessshhhh .. in one page .... information overload. Smile I like it!

 

ok, so CST is a brand of tyre - which can be filled with sealant, and has a removable core (i will google tyre core ...)

 

and you get sealant, which seals punctures

 

You get sealant, which is more a preventative measure, but also functions to seal punctures when they happen.

 

tubeless is better than tubes filled with sealant ??

 

Am I correct so far?

 

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Hi Hog.

 

The bike came with tubeless ready tyres and rims, but had tubes in them. Just had enough of the punctures.

 

Ok perhaps a silly question, if the sealant fills everything, does it block the valve? How do you get air into the tyre?

 

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Hi Hog.

The bike came with tubeless ready tyres and rims' date=' but had tubes in them. Just had enough of the punctures.

Ok perhaps a silly question, if the sealant fills everything, does it block the valve? How do you get air into the tyre?
[/quote']

 

with joe's, you put the sealant directly into the tyre before seating it on the rim. you spin the wheel furiously so the sealant covered the tyre surface. with sludged tubes the stuff often clogs the valves if you let the pressure down.
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HR sludge is the better to use?

 

But at low pressure it may clog the valve?

 

Not that I have to worry about my tyre pressure, I dont go fast enough to worry about grip in the corners. Thumbs%20Up

 

 

 

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slowbee, no. i have nothing against sludge, but if you're tubeless-compatible, go the whole hog. get the bike shop to add oko (they keep this stuff in a barrel in the workshop). you'll have no hassles. also invest in a weldtite tubeless puncture repair kit (about R100) 
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