intern Posted September 30, 2008 Posted September 30, 2008 Nobody's fighting' date=' Willehond. Just making the point that anyone can be a smartypants if they want to be.[/quote'] You seem to be exceptionally proficient in that regard! I can be if I so choose! Ja ja, and nobody likes me either boo frikkity hoo.
fatcyclist Posted September 30, 2008 Posted September 30, 2008 No-one likes a moderator either, and you lot are testing one in particular's patience tonight... Fatmod
JPW# Posted October 2, 2008 Posted October 2, 2008 I did ...30000 km with one connex chain back in the 8 speed days lol..
carlo_sg Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 With citrus degraeser and a tooth brush' date=' I use squirt a couple of time a week too. [/quote'] There's your problem. Chains can only be cleaned effectively by generously flushing and rinsing it with degreaser. Citrus degreaser is good stuff but too expensive for the required procedure. Tooth brushes are best left for dental stuff and army rifles. Put a quick link on your chain and cocktail-shake it in a bottle of degreaser. Do this as you wash your bike, returning to the cocktail shaker a few times with some vigorous shakes as you wash. Then, rinse and shake the chain until the rinse water runs clear and no grit can be felt as the chain is articulated. Secondly, use oil. Any oil, but not a solid wax product like Squirt. This is rubbish. After it dries, it does not reflow into areas where the lubricant was pushed out and you run metal on metal. It also gunks up your pulleys and cannot be removed with degreaser since it that doesn't dissolve it. JB, I keep my drivetrain very clean, and de-grease & re-lube after every ride. I thought I would take your advice and use chain oil (instead the the squirt product I am currently using). As what you said about the oil flowing back, makes sense. The only thing is, the drivetrain appeared dirty very quickly, ie: the oil went black (and got in everywhere- which is good I suppose) What about products like FINISH LINE Dry Teflon Lube?
Johan Bornman Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 [quote name=carlo_sg JB' date=' I keep my drivetrain very clean, and de-grease & re-lube after every ride. I thought I would take your advice and use chain oil (instead the the squirt product I am currently using). As what you said about the oil flowing back, makes sense. The only thing is, the drivetrain appeared dirty very quickly, ie: the oil went black (and got in everywhere- which is good I suppose) What about products like FINISH LINE Dry Teflon Lube? [/quote] Carlo, the black is not really dirt but tiny, tiny amounts of aluminium oxide. This is produces as a result of the chain moving against the chainring and is evidence of wear. Whether you lube with oil, wax or nothing, that wear is present. Liquid oil simply distributes it and presents it to world, whereas wax keeps it at the interface and hides it. All I can say about this is keep it away from your upholstery and trouser legs. The initial colour of the oil is not what causes the black, so if you start with white or pink oil, it'll turn black. I haven't used Dry Teflon lube so I can't comment. If it is oil fortified with a bit of teflon and it can flow between cycles, then it is fine. It just sounds too expensive to bother though. You say you use chain oil. Do you mean chain oil as in chainsaw oil? That's usually a bit thick and causes the sprockets to throw up toffee-like trails of oil that lands everywhere and eventually turns muddy. On the other end of the scale, I find newer fancy car oil just a tad too thin for my taste, but good old 20W50 is fine. Don't put on too much, a drop per every second link is plenty. You'll see after a few rotations it has permeated the entire chain.
Dirtbreath Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Carlo, I learnt an invaluable lesson this weekend. I lubed my chain with oil the day before and did a 25k ride without wiping the excess oil off. FILTHY! I had done 3 rides on one lube just before this totalling about 140kays of heavy off road riding and there was only a little bit of dust which wiped off easily and no chain noise with sharp shifting.
porky Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 I dont know, personally I think you are all too fussy, maybe you are creating problems for yourself - I probably only clean and oil my chain once a month - maybe longer and I average about 200 kms per week - I never have issues and this 10 speed chain now is probably 18 months old, so how many kms is that................?? I dont know, too lazy to work it out. I also take the easy route with that little washer machine you clip on the chain, (GASP!!!! ) and clean green, a few revolutions, spray it off with the hose pipe, re lube and I am done, 10 minutes tops.! - with all due respect to Mr Bornman and company, but to me a chain is a chain is a chain, is a chain, its not a lunar space probe, clean it when its dirty, any oil is fine and forget about it - I think it can handle a bit of grime quite easily.
Johan Bornman Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 - with all due respect to Mr Bornman and company' date=' but to me a chain is a chain is a chain, is a chain, its not a lunar space probe, clean it when its dirty, any oil is fine and forget about it - I think it can handle a bit of grime quite easily. [/quote'] Hey Porks, that IS my view. In fact, I'm gonna lay a charge of plagiarism against you with admin. AAAAdmiiiin!!!
porky Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Please dont Johan - I have enough issues already.!
Johan Bornman Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Please dont Johan - I have enough issues already.! OK, I'll let you off, but this is the last time.
porky Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Please dont Johan - I have enough issues already.! OK' date=' I'll let you off, but this is the last time.[/quote'] - Thanks man.! I would have used a smiley on "Bended knees" but I couldnt find one.
Dirtbreath Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Porky, if I rode road I would be in the same boat as you. We are unfortunately not comparing apples with apples here. 10 speed on road should last you a lifetime with very little maintenance.
BigGuy Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Johan, what about all these other ointments such as Q10/20, WD40 etc? Are they any good for road or mtb?
Johan Bornman Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 Johan' date=' what about all these other ointments such as Q10/20, WD40 etc? Are they any good for road or mtb?[/quote'] No, they're absolutely useless for that purpose. These things are co-called penetrative oils. Their job is to penetrate frozen hinges and other plain bearings (bushes) that are so full of other contaminants that normal oil can't get in there. This stuff is thin for two reasons: 1) So that the blast of propellant can drive it in.2) So that capillary action can suck it in. The solvent quickly evaporates and leaves behind a thin residue of oil, but nothing thick enough for chain use. Keep it for those door hinges, clutch lever squeaks and as emergency cockroach killer. Johan Bornman2008-10-08 07:25:40
Guest Big H Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 The way this posting is going it will ghange to "excessive wear on my mouse wheel" USE SQUIRT IT IS THE ONLY LUBE THAT REALLY WORKS!!!!!!!
BigGuy Posted October 8, 2008 Posted October 8, 2008 The way this posting is going it will ghange to "excessive wear on my mouse wheel" USE SQUIRT IT IS THE ONLY LUBE THAT REALLY WORKS!!!!!!! Well I don't know about that one. Since using Squirt I have had to change a chainring or two...
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