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Dura Ace 10sp - crank arm falls off !!!!!!


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Posted
smiley36.gif A roasty is not a scar !!

 

It isn't?OuchCry

 

Nah...was talking about the stuff that's going to stay there for ever and ever and ever...Big%20smile 

 

Then when i'm old and wrinkly and my grandchildren ask me what those marks on my hands, arms and legs are i'll have the perfect opportunity to tell them about the wonders of cycling and bullly them into the sport!Approve 
Posted

...the right (non-drive) crank arm falls off...

 

Well, there's the first problem.  Either your mate's bike is built in mirror image or he's riding it backwards.  My bike has the drive side on the right.

 

As for the correct tightening, torque is measured in Lb-ft or Kg-m or N-m.

 

Find the right torque setting to use and use an accurate torque wrench to do it right.  Not enough torque and the thing will undo itself and too much torque will strip threads (or break bolts).

 

Otherwise you could always try the traditional method: Tighten until eveythong goes loose and then back a 1/4 turn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer: The last suggestion was a joke!
Posted

 

Lets just say i surprised the CT guys a bit when i went to visitWinkEmbarrassedLOL.

 

 

Suprised how strong she is yes. Confused

 

Wacko You really have to make a plan to see someone about these hallucinations.
Posted

Well' date=' there's the first problem.  Either your mate's bike is built in mirror image or he's riding it backwards.  My bike has the drive side on the right.
[/quote']

 

Not if you're standing in front of the bike smiley2.gif
Posted

Actually, the dust cap has to be screwed on tight with the correct tool before the bolts are tightened. This ensures that the non-drive crank seats deep enough on the axle. I've never had issues with my Dura-Ace crank, even though I just tighten it with a multi tool. I must admit that I feel ashamed to admit that I even own a Dura-Ace crank (on a spare TT bike) as I am a Campy convert.

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