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Posted
BL' date=' how did the frame turnout after blasting ? Was it a smooth finish that could be polished or did it have a stippled effect ?/QUOTE']

 

I didn't see it, but suspect it was coarse. Gave them the frame with paint already sanded off by me... the other frame was a bare magnesium with primer which I had powder coated white... and weighed 120g extra afterwards. 

 

 
Posted

Wasnt too cheap, in the end worked out to R1200 cos he had to send it away to pull the steel headset out and refit. I still had to fit the rivnuts for the bottle holders back in. Here is what it looks like tho... (Still doesnt have any decals on it... Was just trying out with these in the pic to see how it would look.

 20090325_064542_Orbea.JPG
Guest Big H
Posted

I had Tandem cranks powdercoated. Was quite a job to remove the original dull grey anodizing. The cranks worked and looked quite amazing. It did get some scuff marks on the crankarms due to pedalling but these were buffed away easily and polished with Mr Min. Be very carefull to completely plug all screwthreads, if they are contaminated by the pwodercoating it is extremely difficult to remove. The heat to do powdercoating is quite low and will not damage the alloy....... I cannot remeber what it was. If a frame are powdercoated areas like the BB shells where the external bearings butt, headset bearing seats etc must be masked properly. powdercoating is quite "thick".

Posted

I had Tandem cranks powdercoated. Was quite a job to remove the original dull grey anodizing. The cranks worked and looked quite amazing. It did get some scuff marks on the crankarms due to pedalling but these were buffed away easily and polished with Mr Min.?Be very carefull to completely plug all screwthreads' date=' if they are contaminated by the pwodercoating it is extremely difficult to remove. The heat to do powdercoating is quite low and will not damage the alloy....... I cannot remeber what it was. If a frame are powdercoated areas like the BB shells where the external bearings butt, headset bearing seats etc must be masked properly. powdercoating is quite "thick".[/quote']

 

 

 

Oom H, what do you use to plug the screwthreades?

Guest Big H
Posted
I had Tandem cranks powdercoated. Was quite a job to remove the original dull grey anodizing. The cranks worked and looked quite amazing. It did get some scuff marks on the crankarms due to pedalling but these were buffed away easily and polished with Mr Min. Be very carefull to completely plug all screwthreads' date=' if they are contaminated by the pwodercoating it is extremely difficult to remove. The heat to do powdercoating is quite low and will not damage the alloy....... I cannot remeber what it was. If a frame are powdercoated areas like the BB shells where the external bearings butt, headset bearing seats etc must be masked properly. powdercoating is quite "thick".[/quote']

Oom H, what do you use to plug the screwthreades?

 

I used masking tape. the heat is so low that the maskingtape did not even fry........ but do it properly, mine leaked and I had a hell of a time to clean the screwthreads. I eventually used a piece of spoke sharpened and bent in a U shape with the sharp ends facing outwards to mate the screwthreads to scrape out the powdercoat gunk. It worked.

 

If I can find the pics of the cranks I will post them later today.
Big H2009-03-26 02:45:26
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

JB has had some very disparaging things to say about anodizing. He says it increases the risk of failure.

I don't have a view either way' date=' just thought I'd share that. [/quote']

 

It is true that he has on occasion explained why it is a bad thing. However, he goes to great length each time to explain that the problems are where there is localised bending or flexing. Like on a rim around the spoke holes, for instance.

 

On an item with gradual flexing over the length of the object, like a crank, the hard anodising doesn't bend enough to craze and start stress fractures.

 

Nobody mentioned that powdercoating is not very UV resistant and goes dull quite easily on a bike.
Posted

[quote name=Big H

 

I used masking tape. the heat is so low that the maskingtape did not even fry........ but do it properly' date=' mine leaked and I had a hell of a time to clean the screwthreads. I eventually used a piece of spoke sharpened and bent in a U shape with the sharp ends facing outwards to mate the screwthreads to scrape out the powdercoat gunk. It worked.

 

If I can find the pics of the cranks I will post them later today.
[/quote]

 

I think BigH was being nice when he said he had a hell of a time getting the powdercoating out of threads. It really sticks and the consistency of the hardened powdercoat makes it extremely difficult to get off anything, especially from thread. I think powdercoating on the wong place is a bitch.

 

When masking, make sure you use "hot melt" masking tape. It takes heat a bit better than standard tape and creates less of a risk to burn on.

 

 
Posted

I have had numerous parts powdercoated for my motorcycles and some stands for the shop.

 

It will dull over time and with use. Scuffing on the cranks will need repolishing to keep it looking sharp.

 

Threads are a major problem. We tried silicone plugs which worked..

 

Best bet ever was to use old screws and bolts that were removed after powder coating. For the frame... save you old BB...

 

Turn the crew/bolt/BB in only halfway...

 

  • 2 months later...

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