Brian Fantana Posted November 2, 2009 Posted November 2, 2009 Since building my SS I discovered a few things' date=' wich forced me to make some changes. Running your chain without any form of a tensioner on a vertical dropout frame does not work, no matter how you do it, the chain will bliksem off. Using a normal 9sp chain is not adviseable. I run a 32 - 14 ratio and I broke 2 chains in 2 days. A tensioner that pushes down on the chain is not ideal, especially if you ride hard, or on very bumpy terrain..the chain will bliksem off and you will hit your nuts on your handlebars. So since I made the following changes everything seems fine...touch wood. Thicker chain, shorter BB and Tensioner that pushes up on the chain. [img']https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/uploads2/20091028_003025_PIC_0191.jpg[/img] You should try not to use a rear cog smaller than 16T because 14T cog cause more tension per chainlink as there are less links on the cog at the same time than would be on a 16T. Try a 36 in front and a 16 at the back. It's a little bit easier than 32/14 but it's less strain on your drive train. I run 36/16T on my 29er on flatter rides and I also used that ratio at karoo2coast, for cross country and races with steep climbs I go for 32/18T on 29er. Stephan2009-11-02 05:25:10
patches Posted November 2, 2009 Posted November 2, 2009 Unfortunately I don't own a single speed, but I once worked on designing one for use in rural communities. The design objective was to allocate more of the cost to a better frame, forks, cartridge style BB and sealed hub bearings, and save by not having some cheap junky shimano SIS 18sp system on the bike. Unfortunately never finished it completely (as you see no brakes could pose some issues), but here's the general idea. Single speed (32/16T).triple clamp rigid forks (so that they can be repaired by just replacing the tubing with standard off the mill stuff). Unisex frame. Yeah... it was my first attempt, so a lot of improvement to come.
Flowta Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 Does anyone have any experience with building a fixie using the old freewheel hub aka "suicide hub"? How succesfull was it? Also can get some cheap BMX hubs so thinking of doing the "suicide hub" method with these. Any thoughts? Or does somebody have an old rear track wheel floating around?
DownhillingKing Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 What are those hubs called that when you ride bach wards your wheels just turn with out the drive train moving at all
droo Posted November 8, 2009 Posted November 8, 2009 What are those hubs called that when you ride bach wards your wheels just turn with out the drive train moving at all A freecoaster. Youtube it, there's a pretty decent explanation somewhere.
tristansandwith Posted November 10, 2009 Posted November 10, 2009 I don't have words for this... WHoa, super good looking! That seat tube looks a bit scarily thin though!
slowtwitch Posted November 14, 2009 Posted November 14, 2009 Does anyone have any experience with building a fixie using the old freewheel hub aka "suicide hub"? How succesfull was it? Also can get some cheap BMX hubs so thinking of doing the "suicide hub" method with these. Any thoughts? Or does somebody have an old rear track wheel floating around? A cheap, successful way of building a track wheel is using an old 6speed hub. They don't have a freehub body, but is rather only threaded, the freehub was part of the cluster which screws onto the hub. The threads are the same as a track cog but doesn't have the smaller opposite thread for a lockring. However, should you really really want a lockring, you could use a taper BB's lockring - they fit and there's enough thread on the hub for both the cog and lockring.
Flowta Posted November 14, 2009 Posted November 14, 2009 That's is what they call a suicide hub and kind of what I was thinking. AFAIK the BMX hub has the same threading. So I could thread on the track sprocket and use the BB lockring. In the meantime it looks like I've managed to find some track wheels. What would you guys suggest as a decent price for a rear track wheel with a couple extra tubbies thrown in?
slowtwitch Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 Any new pics out there, it's been a month guys!
Kiwi Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 We received a couple of these frames in Large (54cm) last night: Kiwi2009-12-08 05:09:12
JohnTheHuman Posted December 10, 2009 Posted December 10, 2009 my babymy Mobyeah boy http://is.pinkbike.com/photo/4361/pbpic4361283.jpg http://is.pinkbike.com/photo/4361/pbpic4361284.jpg Frame >> Blk Mrkt Mob candy Apple RedFork >> Rock Shox Argyle 302Bars >> Renthal Jujmp Bar 1inch RiseStem >> Fit Bike DLRHeadset >> CamplangoGrips >> Fly Bikes RuebenBar Ends >> Fly BikesBrakes >> Avid Juicy Seven, 140mm Alligator rotorCable >> BraidedFront Wheel >> Sun Rims Equalizer 27 on Last CarmenFront Tire >> Hutchinson Piranha air lightsRear Wheel >>Alexrims Supra BH Pro laced to Last Zakk 11t driverRear Tire >> Halo Twin Rail 2.2 Chain >> KMC Premium Crankset >> Gusset Pigmy Reynolds 853Pedals >> Odyssey trailmix,sealed, polished. Sprocket >> Primo Analog 23tSeat >> Eclat CXomplex, custom leather cover weight>>12.1kg
MoreTrails Posted December 10, 2009 Posted December 10, 2009 Dude, where you get the Renthal kit from ?
JohnTheHuman Posted December 10, 2009 Posted December 10, 2009 Dude' date=' where you get the Renthal kit from ?[/quote'] nice huh?feels soooo goodbest bars ever dfourbgot to order it in CandyMuffin2009-12-10 13:06:42
MoreTrails Posted December 16, 2009 Posted December 16, 2009 Dude' date=' where you get the Renthal kit from ?[/quote'] nice huh?feels soooo goodbest bars ever dfourbgot to order it in Shot for the headsup!!! Yeah that bar looks the business - nice one!
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