Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So? Steel is what is rusting! The rusty bits turn a nice blue colour - whats your point? WHO mentioned NON ferrous?? It's not going to rust is it?

Posted
Okay' date=' I see the stupidity in my post. Brain did not register the Rust=Iron until your post Shocked

But interesting read on the bluing, thinks its worth a try then
[/quote']

 

Don't bash your head too much. There was no stupidity in your post.

 

Those bolts are plated high-tensile steel. Since the plating doesn't work all that well inside cavities, they are partially plated - either with very thin chrome or with only the underlying plating that goes with chrome - nickel or copper. The rust rusts right through the porous chrome and bluing won't take to rust, chrome or any other partial plating.

 

Therefore, it won't work.
Posted
JB cause its a real pita to get the allen key to work with a wax filled hole

 

Try it, you may like it. Capscrew holes filled with gunk and rust are a pita to clear before inserting a key. Wax comes out easily. If you use hard wax, a little poke with a pick will make it pop out, if you use soft wax like plumbers sealing wax, you simply force the allen key in. I use force in a diminutive way, it is easy.

 

Wax doesn't cause a mess like Q20, doesn't need re-application after each wash or rainy ride and doesn't stink like Q20.

 

This is especially useful for those little allen grub screws on Fox fork adjusters but I've successfully used the method on bikes, lawmowers, routers and cars.
Posted

JB - please PM your postal address to me. I would like to post you a chromed (poorly) bolt that has been cold blued. Looks quite cool - no brown.

Posted
JB cause its a real pita to get the allen key to work with a wax filled hole

 

Try it' date=' you may like it. Capscrew holes filled with gunk and rust are a pita to clear before inserting a key. Wax comes out easily. If you use hard wax, a little poke with a pick will make it pop out, if you use soft wax like plumbers sealing wax, you simply force the allen key in. I use force in a diminutive way, it is easy.

 

Wax doesn't cause a mess like Q20, doesn't need re-application after each wash or rainy ride and doesn't stink like Q20.

 

This is especially useful for those little allen grub screws on Fox fork adjusters but I've successfully used the method on bikes, lawmowers, routers and cars.
[/quote']

SPOOKPISS RULLES....
Posted

Johan sorry for the late reply . I stopped following treads on here cause they never last more than two pages before it get turned into a circus . Anyway as some may have noticed I do not give "white book" advice but like to give advice or comment on something I have actaully tried before . I am from Capetown and that is where I started to use Q20 for rust prevention ! Now if you work like a pig then yes you gonna get Q20 all over the place . I use an item called a rag (lap) when lovingly applying spookpiepie . But hell if you feel ear/bee wax is the way to go be my guest . I can just imagine that how your fingers gonna look every time you heat ur tools . And if a allen key does not fit a bolt like a glove replace iether the tools or the bolt . There is no space inside my bolts for wax smiley2.gif

Posted

If you feel the need to clean up a chrome item that's showing some rust.

the old and trusted goldylox is the way to go...

just "remove the part of the bike first" or there will be some cry'ing involved. rub the rust clear of the item. then after cleaning the item in question, dip it in a small amount of Q20 sprayed into the lid.

 

My granny tought me this, and she was a verry clever old lady.

So nobody can argue with that...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout