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Posted

Should have mentioned it before, but it's a good idea to check the tubing.

 

That tells you whether the frame was a 'professional', 'good' or 'entry' level frame.

 

in this case (the tubes are Columbus), looking at group set, the frame is about mide 80s, so SL and above would be a very good frame.

 

quintonb, I'm glad you can see the picture that well, I'm afraid my eyesight is no longer what it once was!!!

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Should I strip it and respray it or rather clean and polish it more than anything else ?

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Posted

 

 

Thanks for all the feedback. Should I strip it and respray it or rather clean and polish it more than anything else ?

Good point on the tubing. Columbus SL or SLX and you got yourself a pro level frame. Anything below and it's midrange.

I would say depending on what you buy it for it may be worth a repaint. But please do lots of research and make sure you can get really good decals to replace those ones. Before you get carried away with taking paint off, take loads of pictures with decal placement measurements etc.

To keep the value as high as possible, it needs to be 100% accurate.

Give it a real good clean and polish and service before you decide to strip and repaint.

Posted

If you check on the restorer websites, you'll see that a bike in original condition, even though marked and scraped etc, is worth more than one repainted.

 

IMHO keep it original, perhaps touch up small scratches etc, but don't respray, unless done by the factory (I don't think so in this instance!).

 

There are PAINT PENS available, cheaply, which make touching up fairly simple.

 

But, as quintonb says, strip, clean and polish first, then you'll have a much better idea.

 

Chrome you can clean up a lot with brasso and cardboard and lots of rubbing. Other guys use tinfoil and rubbing. Ali you can buff, you'll be surprised how nice she can look just with effort, no repainting.

Posted (edited)

This is the only picture I could find on the tubing. It looks like a Columbus sticker but does this help any of you to identify what tubing this is ?

post-36034-0-24878300-1382512157_thumb.jpg

Edited by Blinkp
Posted

Columbus Tretubi. Says that the three main tubes are the same material and the others something else.

 

this is from LFGSS:

a tretubi set could consist of the 3 mains being anything Columbus offered at the time: SL, SP, Aelle, or even Zeta with whatever stays and forkblades you wanted. Certainly some big customers like Bianchi had their own proprietary "tretubi" sets made and special decals with their logos combined with Columbus.

But, this is only legitimizing a practice that was established well before "79: plenty of Italian builders cut corners by combining 3 main tubes of Columbus (SL or a blend) with Falck stays and blades. It was common practice, even among the "big men" of frame-building.

 

So, it's likely then your frame is NOT TOP OF THE RANGE but somewhere below that. But, that does'n't mean it's not a good frame, could be three main tubes of SL or SLX, with slightly cheaper tubes for seat stays and forks. You'll have to dig in and research, using what you have, lug shapes, any chroming, serial number etc etc and trawl through the websites. It's actually fun working out the provenance of a bike.

 

Enjoy.

Posted

http://www.velocals.com/catalog/columbus-tretubi.gif

 

from LFGSS:

Tretubi means "three tubes". Only the main triangle consists of Columbus SL or SP tubing. The stays and forks are some lesser material. They could be a lesser Columbus grade, like Aelle or Cromor, or they could be high tensile steel. Regardless, they are heavier than the forks and 555SL stays in your Competition.

 

The other factor is that your frame size. At about 58-60cm most Italian builders started switching from Columbus SL to the heavier Columbus SP tubing. Your frame is at the transisition point and since the decal does not indicate SL or SP, the main triangle may be either, depending on the builder's preference. It may even be a combination, such as SL with an SP downtube, which was a popular solution for some extra rigidity without adding too much weight."

 

"Tretubi actually means that only the three main tubes are made of the Columbus tubing indicated by the sticker. Your Basso's sounds like it is comparable to my 1978 SuperCourse - which was made with Reynolds 531 (as opposed to Columbus) in the three main tubes."

 

"Tretubi actually means that only the three main tubes are made of the Columbus tubing indicated by the sticker. Your Basso's sounds like it is comparable to my 1978 SuperCourse - which was made with Reynolds 531 (as opposed to Columbus) in the three main tubes.

 

Doesn't the "Tubi Speciali Rinforzati" indicate that the tubes are butted? If I'm not mistaken I think the main tubes on the Super Course were straight guage 531."

 

"Doesn't the "Tubi Speciali Rinforzati" indicate that the tubes are butted? If I'm not mistaken I think the main tubes on the Super Course were straight guage 531.

 

I think you're correct on the Italian, and I know you're correct about the Super Course being straight gauge."

 

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-150526.html

Posted

Columbus Tretubi. Says that the three main tubes are the same material and the others something else.

 

this is from LFGSS:

a tretubi set could consist of the 3 mains being anything Columbus offered at the time: SL, SP, Aelle, or even Zeta with whatever stays and forkblades you wanted. Certainly some big customers like Bianchi had their own proprietary "tretubi" sets made and special decals with their logos combined with Columbus.

But, this is only legitimizing a practice that was established well before "79: plenty of Italian builders cut corners by combining 3 main tubes of Columbus (SL or a blend) with Falck stays and blades. It was common practice, even among the "big men" of frame-building.

 

So, it's likely then your frame is NOT TOP OF THE RANGE but somewhere below that. But, that does'n't mean it's not a good frame, could be three main tubes of SL or SLX, with slightly cheaper tubes for seat stays and forks. You'll have to dig in and research, using what you have, lug shapes, any chroming, serial number etc etc and trawl through the websites. It's actually fun working out the provenance of a bike.

 

Enjoy.

 

Thank you that all of you are willing to share your knowledge and time. I am new to this and really also believe in keeping the bike original. I am however busy stripping it and will start a proper clean-up operation from the ground up.

I have alway wanted a very nice Colnago. Is there anything available that you know of ?

Posted

COLNAGO ANYONE????

 

This was on JunkMail or one of those. The guy is in Jhbg, you can contact him @

https://www.facebook.com/ade.earp

0824477454

Adrian Earp

283365_10151348950444974_1858860807_n.jpg

483480_10151348950814974_1576697949_n.jpg

 

He says it's a MEXICO, though I don't see any Mexico decal. But who knows.

 

He's wanting 8K for it, but I'm sure that's negotiable!

 

Very nice. Ja not sure is a Mexico. Wish pictures were bigger.

Paint jobs are always so nice on Colnago's.

Posted

For those who may be interested in "original" replacement decals.

 

cyclomondo.net/ . The guys name is Greg Softly, he has a massive collection of vintage bikes, and owns the oldest recorded Colnago.

 

He manufactures authentic replacement decals.

I have bought 2 sets for my Colnago's and they are very good quality.

Posted (edited)

Thanks quintonb, one of many (I'm sure), websites I don't have. Been buying decals, if I need any, off ebay.

Edited by heyyou
Posted

Think I'm going to have to give my Miyata a clean up and take her for a ride again (currently hanging on display at CWC)

Hows about some pictures of that bike..

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