cat-i Posted September 14, 2009 Share difference in rolling circumference is negligable negligeblenegligible can be ignored ... my cat-eye measures very close to the same distance over the same route. my hardtail looks very sexy with slicks, they look like low-profile tyres on the muddy bike with dis-brakes - hunterelli remember to keep a little bit of mud on the frame (you're allowed to clean the drive-train) just to remind the bike that you will take it offroad again.i totally agree - if you have just one bike, it's a mountain bike! best of both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levett Posted September 15, 2009 Share difference in rolling circumference is negligable negligeble negligible can be ignored I don't agree! The difference between a 26 x 1.4" and a 26 x 2.1" is 63mm (or 3.1%)andThe difference between a 26 x 1.4" and a 700 x 32C is 150mm (or 7.5%) This affects the 'top speed' at which you can pedal, and is an advantage on the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canaris Posted September 15, 2009 Share Um, sorry to be the wet blanket, but if you are going to race on the road, then it is a road bike you need. The geometery, gearing wheels ext are designed for it and you will automatically increase your speed. However, if you are doing the distance as a mid to back of the pack, then a MTB can be sufficient. (Just don't have too many Contador or Schelk brother ambitions) The best "improvements" on a MTB if you are going to go onto tar is the "slick" tyres, as proper mtb tyres are expensive and wear out quickly on tar. Also find a way to lockout your shock/s as well.Also consider your gearing which will always be at a disadvantage vs road bikes (53X11 always trumps 44x12) THe best overall improvement for cycling in general is to get proper equipment, especially shoes and cleats. THe hard sole will make cycling more comfortable and the cleat will activate more muscles in the legs. LAstly, as a mtb you should always have a clean drive chain. A spotless drive chain in fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levett Posted September 15, 2009 Share KonaFan - I agree with everything you say - however - if you are a 'leasure rider' and only do 'fun rides' on the road, and only have one bike, a mountain bike is the way to go. Road bikes make you more aerodynamic, have less rolling resistance, have better gearing, are lighter, are more efficient (especially if the suspension can't be locked out on the MTB), etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Brunsdon Posted September 15, 2009 Share KonaFan - I agree with everything you say - however - if you are a 'leasure rider' and only do 'fun rides' on the road' date=' and only have one bike, a mountain bike is the way to go. Road bikes make you more aerodynamic, have less rolling resistance, have better gearing, are lighter, are more efficient (especially if the suspension can't be locked out on the MTB), etc.[/quote'] Agree here to with both KonaFan and levett. I'm actually enjoying the slicks on my MTB for commuting. I still need to buy a 2nd set of rims so I don't have to swop tyres/tubes whenever I want to some off-tar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levett Posted September 15, 2009 Share That's what I have - I've gradually 'migrated' (for the road) from knobblies, to semi-slicks, to slicks, and then narrower slicks. We now have 700 25C Continental GP4000's on a set of rims (for the road) and knobblies for off-road. You'll never win a road race with this tyre of rig (but then, with the best/lightest road bike in the world), I'm never going to be 'up at the front'! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollar Posted September 15, 2009 Share Ha Ha - you mountain goats are funny Slicks, high pressure, bigger wheels, taller gearing - sounds like a racing bike to me? Seriously though - MTBs are more versatile. You cannot ride a racer in the bush. And they are great to train with on the road - you k@k off so badly and when you get back on your racer it feels like someone has fitted an engine to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbN00b Posted September 15, 2009 Share I am going to buy myself a moutain bike...wait...I already have one MTBs are more versatile like they say...juts shows roadies are not very versatile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTfan Posted September 15, 2009 Share I am going to buy myself a moutain bike...wait...I already have one MTBs are more versatile like they say...juts shows roadies are not very versatile I'm sure you could put 'knoblies' on a road bike, thin knoblies though, but then what would you call the bike, a Hard Body?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightred Posted September 15, 2009 Share mountain bike? slicks? what planet are you from? LOL! funny. I once did the argus on a Morewood Shova with 1.5 inch slicks on. It looked REALLY stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickc Posted September 17, 2009 Share Talking of slicks on a MTB, has any one tried Conti Town & Country tyres on a UST wheel set and run them as tubeless. I am keen to do this for the 94.7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levett Posted September 17, 2009 Share On my MTB (for road - not even any good on ANYTHING BUT tar) I use Continental Sport Contact (1.3" in front and 1.6" rear - to keep the rolling resistance down and gearing up)- they have zero tread, just a 'wavy' pattern - hence only for tar. On a set of hybrid wheels (MTB hubs and 700 rims) and on a set of 29er wheels I use Continental Grand Prix 4000 (700 x 25C) - the same as on my road bike. My advice for the 94.7 is to go 'totally slick' rather than Town and Country Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quickdraw Posted September 17, 2009 Share I guess the answer is YES slicks make your ride on tar much easier.I have the continental 1.3" ones they are nooice. Building a cheap road bike now, cos running a tubeless setup makes swopping tires a schlepp, and the cost to build up a set of wheels for the road will not work out much cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatiepie Posted September 17, 2009 Share Take the money and buy a second hand racer. It works out cheaper and you will not believe what difference it makes. I got my 2007 Raleigh RC3000 second hand for R2000 and at that stage it has only done 600km. I train exclusively on my Dually MTB to avoid any roads and when I get on my small light racer, I fly. Take the cost of 2 wheelsets with slicks and you can get a great second hand racer. And you can use the racer on your indoor trainer for the days you oversleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levett Posted September 17, 2009 Share I did my first 94.7 (last year) with Continental Travel Contact tyres on my full suspension MTB - apart from Rolling Resistance, they weigh 690g each. Sport Contacts weigh 450 and 550g (1.3 & 1.6"), and GP4000's weigh 215g (700 25C). MTB Knobblies can be around 700g each so, as you can see, apart from the other benefits of a road bike, even putting slicks on a MTB can save you up to 1kg on your MTB, as well as reducing Rolling Resistance. I do agree though that you can get a good 2nd hand road bike for the price of a second set of MTB wheels and this is the way to go if you're going to do more road riding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanez Posted November 7, 2009 Share please could you tell me where i can buy these continentals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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