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Posted

Can anybody give me some advice on what the resistance of the disc brakes should be on the front wheel of a mountain bike. I recently purchased my mountain bike and took the front wheel to transport it and when I put it back on it feels as though the brakes are to tight on the front wheel. If I lift the bike and spin the front tyre it turns then stops shortly after from the resistance of the brakes. Is this wrong?

 

Any advice would be appreciated!
Posted

well, practically, the resistance depends on how far you pull the brake levers. If you are not pulling on the levers, the pads shouldn't be touching the brake rotors.

 

could be one of two reasons why the pads are touching: either the brake piston which pushes the pads onto the rotor are slightly extended. Bleed your brakes and see what happens.

or

your brake rotor has been bumped and is slightly bent. slowly and very lightly turn the wheel by hand and see if at one point or other the resistance is highest.?

Posted

Dont bleed your brakes. Air doesn't cause piston lock. Especially not to just "see what happens." Nothing will happen.

 

Your pads need to be spread. Take the wheel off, put a large screwdriver inbetween the pads and twist gently. You'll feel the pads spread slowly - very slowly.  Now go for a ride.

 

Several people will not flood the lines and issue dire warnings about putting metal inbetween the pads. Obviously you're not going to botch the job by using a hammer and chisel. Gently will do it with no harm.

 

 

 
Posted

I've pushed the pads back several times with no problems, as per JB's method. Even a smallish screwdriver works, just be gentle. The pads are pretty hard, so you have to be very special to damage them.

 

I did eventually (after 2 years) have to replace those brake pads, not because I stuffed them up, but because the Marzocchi leaked oil on them. These Italians! Always looking for ways to make you go faster!

 

 

 

Posted

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Just to echo the previous advice, use a screwdriver to separate the pads. Since my bike has to travel by car boot, it seems every time I refit the wheels the alignment is out, so I've done the screw driver operation 20+ times with no ill effect.

 

My improvement on the standard screwdriver method: Use 2 flat head screwdrivers that you insert from opposite ends of the caliper, thereby creating a wedge effect with flat surfaces against the pads. Then you just push in one of the screwdrivers to open the gap.

Posted

<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

Just to echo the previous advice, use a screwdriver to separate the pads. Since my bike has to travel by car boot, it seems every time I refit the wheels the alignment is out, so I've done the screw driver operation 20+ times with no ill effect.

 

My improvement on the standard screwdriver method: Use 2 flat head screwdrivers that you insert from opposite ends of the caliper, thereby creating a wedge effect with flat surfaces against the pads. Then you just push in one of the screwdrivers to open the gap.

[/quote']

 

 

So why not put a spacer in each time u take off your front wheel??LOL
Posted
 

So why not put a spacer in each time u take off your front wheel??LOL

 

I wish it was that easy... Thinks it's more a case of having crappy scewers/buggered interfaces that dont seat in the same position every time.

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