Woofie Posted January 14, 2010 Share Over the past while I have tried to patch quite a few road tubes but most of the time the patch fails. Its as if the glue just doesnt stick properly to the butel anymore or something. I have also tried those little peel and stick things but they seem to work even worse. Chucking a tube after a puncture is flipping expensive so I really want to try and get some more life out of my old tubes. Any ideas? I had a idea of maybe inflating the tube slightly to reveal where the hole is and then injecting 1ml liquid latex into that hole with an injection needle and then turning the hole to face down so that the latex would then form a "internal" patch where it would dry on the inside of the tube. Anyone ever try something like this? I am not going to use slime in my tubes, so dont even suggest it. After a little while it blocks up the valves and I can bearly pump the tyres up then. So I am not going back there again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted January 14, 2010 Share I just throw road tubes away when i puncture. or use them to tie the bikes on the bakkie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldron Posted January 14, 2010 Share Over the past while I have tried to patch quite a few road tubes but most of the time the patch fails.Its as if the glue just doesnt stick properly to the butel anymore or something.I have also tried those little peel and stick things but they seem to work even worse.Chucking a tube after a puncture is flipping expensive so I really want to try and get some more life out of my old tubes.Any ideas?I had a idea of maybe inflating the tube slightly to reveal where the hole is and then injecting 1ml liquid latex into that hole with an injection needle and then turning the hole to face down so that the latex would then form a "internal" patch where it would dry on the inside of the tube.Anyone ever try something like this?I am not going to use slime in my tubes' date=' so dont even suggest it.After a little while it blocks up the valves and I can bearly pump the tyres up then. So I am not going back there again.[/quote'] Are you giving the tube a good sanding before you apply the glue? Rubber develops an oxide layer that needs to be removed before anything will stick to it... The ideal puncture repair by Eldron:1) Sand tube vigorously with the sandpaper or perforated metal sheet that comes in the puncture repair kit.2) Spread glue in and around hole (make sure glue circle is bigger than the patch you'll be using).3) Wait 5 minutes for glue to react with rubber (the glue must go from shiny to matt before you stick the patch on.4) Remove plastic film off patch and stick on tube immediately.5) Stick patched area of tube under corner of bed to dry (it doesn't have to be a bed - couches work fine too :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofie Posted January 14, 2010 Share Over the past while I have tried to patch quite a few road tubes but most of the time the patch fails.Its as if the glue just doesnt stick properly to the butel anymore or something.I have also tried those little peel and stick things but they seem to work even worse.Chucking a tube after a puncture is flipping expensive so I really want to try and get some more life out of my old tubes.Any ideas?I had a idea of maybe inflating the tube slightly to reveal where the hole is and then injecting 1ml liquid latex into that hole with an injection needle and then turning the hole to face down so that the latex would then form a "internal" patch where it would dry on the inside of the tube.Anyone ever try something like this?I am not going to use slime in my tubes' date=' so dont even suggest it.After a little while it blocks up the valves and I can bearly pump the tyres up then. So I am not going back there again. [/quote'] Are you giving the tube a good sanding before you apply the glue? Rubber develops an oxide layer that needs to be removed before anything will stick to it... The ideal puncture repair by Eldron:1) Sand tube vigorously with the sandpaper or perforated metal sheet that comes in the puncture repair kit.2) Spread glue in and around hole (make sure glue circle is bigger than the patch you'll be using).3) Wait 5 minutes for glue to react with rubber (the glue must go from shiny to matt before you stick the patch on.4) Remove plastic film off patch and stick on tube immediately.5) Stick patched area of tube under corner of bed to dry (it doesn't have to be a bed - couches work fine too :-) Pretty much the procedure I follow.But I still find that it is a hit and miss if it works or not.Patched one really well the other day and put it in and rode bike and it was all cool.Next day I left my bike in the car and the heat in the car made the patch fail so that when I dragged my bike out the wheel was flat.Dont seem to be winning here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sterad Posted January 14, 2010 Share Also gave up on patching, never seems to work, they eventually leak. Must be another way, maybe superglue will work better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreZA Posted January 14, 2010 Share Are you giving the tube a good sanding before you apply the glue? Rubber develops an oxide layer that needs to be removed before anything will stick to it... ? The ideal puncture repair by Eldron: 1) Sand tube vigorously with the sandpaper or perforated metal sheet that comes in the puncture repair kit. 2) Spread glue in and around hole (make sure glue circle is bigger than the patch you'll be using). 3) Wait 5 minutes for glue to react with rubber (the glue must go from shiny to matt before you stick the patch on. 4) Remove plastic film off patch and?stick on tube immediately. :-) I then add another bit of glue around the edges and let dry. Then before I install the tube I put some baby powder on the patch to cover any tacky glue so that it does not stick to the inside of the tyre and I rip it off the next time I take the tube out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L'Bie Posted January 14, 2010 Share There a thin layer of wax from the manufacturing process preventing the solution to do its thing. The sanding is a important part of getting it right. I have a small BIG lighter in my kit. I use this to heat the tube arround the hole before I apply the glue. Working fast. I apply the glue, turn the lighter to the glue and the patch a couple of times to make sure the rubber and the glue and the patch is nice and warm. Rubb with my finger over the glue to make sure its nice and tacky and only then do I apply the patch and maintain a little pressure. You can fit the tube immediately. It hasn't failed me yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henk Posted January 14, 2010 Share I have patched for years, no problem. What I have found however, is that once the tubes of glue have been opened, the glue seems to deteriorate fairly quickly (3-4weeks in the saddlebag) and then you can do what you want, but the patch will not stick. My penny's worth !. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schwynn Posted January 14, 2010 Share If the repairs are done at home, sand the area around the hole lightly. Then apply the glue. Leave it till touch dry. Peal the patch and apply. Apply pressure for a short while and put aside for 1/2 hour or so. This has not failed yet. If you are on the road, well, use a new tube or one previously patched. I always carry 2 to 3 spares with me. Schwynn2010-01-14 07:45:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRacing Posted January 14, 2010 Share If you get the answer, then you should phone me, I have a gajilion tubes that needs a good patch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofie Posted January 14, 2010 Share ok. I am going to experiment with latex this weekend. Lets see if I can come up with something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted January 14, 2010 Share I have never had any joy patching on the road - either with instant patches or solution, but the patches I apply at home seem to last. My method is to sand the patch area, apply a thin film of contact adhesive to the tube and patch, leave to totally dry (overnight, or use an electric heat gun - not hot enough to cause the adhesive to bubble). I then apply the patch, wrap a cloth around the tube and tap the area firmly with a rubber mallet. Finally, a dusting with french chalk. I also only buy contact adhesive in small tins as it seems to keep much better than in the tubes. Once it starts to thicken it is useless for patching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Agteros Posted January 14, 2010 Share patch and solution (vulcanizing agent) works fine. Instant stick on patches seem to work OK as well. HOWEVER, on the MTB I've found that patches start to leak after a while... could this be because of the Slime in the tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted January 14, 2010 Share Rubber develops an oxide layer that needs to be removed before anything will stick to it... Now that's a new one....Butyl-Oxide. I think you are confusing the non-stick surface courtesy of an industrial-strength version of Spray and Cook. Tubes are made in moulds and to prevent them from sticking to the mould, it is first covered in a mould release agent. That is what is preventing the patch from sticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted January 14, 2010 Share ok.I am going to experiment with latex this weekend.Lets see if I can come up with something. Latex will peel right off. You need to perfect your technique. Clean an area around the hole by either sanding it until it takes on a uniform dull black colour or, clean the area with an alcohol swab. If there are ridges in the tube in that area, it needs to be sanded away or shaved away with a double-blade razor head you keep in your patch kit just for that job. It has to be removed else mould release agent hides alonside the ridge and gives the patch a place to lift. Then apply glue and let it dry so that it is no longer tacky to the touch. Now apply your patch and apply pressure. Preferrably don't use for two or three hours. Often this is not practical so you have to use it quite soon after patching. In this case, keep the plastic backing on the patch until the tyre is taken off again. To remove the plastic backing, don't peel from th side but score it in the centre and peel from inside out, thus avoiding lifing the side of the patch. Good patching needs clean hands, good patch site hygiene, time, patience and absolute dry weather. This is usually not ideal at the side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudda Posted January 14, 2010 Share I have patched plenty of my road tubes with no hassles. My technique is glue on the tube, glue on the patch, put it under weight of a chair or similar overnight. In the morning got a good tube for use. +-R50 a tube is getting a bit expensive these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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