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Gear Change Delay?


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Campaqnolo Record 10 speed:

 

I’m experiencing the following problem when shifting gears. When shifting up or down on the top part of the cassette there is a delay before the gear changes.

 

Can anyone tell me why this is and how do I fix it?

<_<

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Campaqnolo Record 10 speed:

 

I’m experiencing the following problem when shifting gears. When shifting up or down on the top part of the cassette there is a delay before the gear changes.

 

Can anyone tell me why this is and how do I fix it?

<_<

 

I know exactly (lucky for you)

 

Problem - Campaqnolo

Solution - Shimano

 

...just couldnt resist :)

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My guess is stretched or dirty/sticky cables.

 

I fit new casings and cables yesterday and my gear changes are QUICK now.

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My guess is stretched or dirty/sticky cables.

 

I fit new casings and cables yesterday and my gear changes are QUICK now.

 

 

Thanks, I'll have it looked at

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My guess is stretched or dirty/sticky cables.

 

I fit new casings and cables yesterday and my gear changes are QUICK now.

 

 

I would go with suggestion. Had similar problem.

 

Oh and thank goodness it was Campy, cos if it was Shimano it would have changed gear at all - hahhahaha!!

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The RD system works by pulling on the cable to initiate a downshift (small to large). To upshift (large to small) the cable is release and the return spring inside the RD body pulls it outwards. The ergo lever controls how much cable is pulled in or released which in turn controls how far the RD moves. The upper and lower limit screws control how far the RD can move at either end of its travel - they are not affected by the shifter. The barrel adjuster fine tunes the position of the RD by gradually taken up or releasing slack in the cable (it effectively shortens or lengths the cable housing).

 

Sticky cables will make sluggish upshifts (L-S) since the return spring has to fight against additional friction. It shouldn't really affect downshifting (S-L) since the force you provide to the shifter is usually enough to overcome the friction and is not high enough to appreciably stretch the cable. Kinked cable housings and sharp bends also increase the friction.

 

A worn return spring will also result in sluggish upshifts (L-S) since it is no longer strong enough to overcome the natural friction in the cable system. It's less likely to have an effect on downshifting (S-L).

 

If you have trouble shifting into the last, largest sprocket on the cassette, it could be that the limit screw is preventing the RD from moving far enough inwards to perform the shift. Problems shifting into the smallest sprocket can be caused by the other limit screw preventing it from moving far enough outwards.

 

If the cables and shifters are all OK and you get problems changing gears on other sprockets, it's likely due to an indexing problem. Slow upshifts (L-S) are due to the cable having too little slack. Screwing the barrel adjuster in releases some slack. Slow downshifts (S-L) result from a cable that has too much slack. Screwing the barrel adjuster out takes up some slack.

 

If it's still not possible to get the shifting right, the shift mechanism could be worn. If you rode Shimano, you would now go out and spend R4000+ on a completely new set of STIs. Since you ride Campag, you can spend R100 to get new G-springs to repair them. Or, as a worst case, you spend R1000 and get new index gears.

 

Here's the Parktool article on how to check the limits and indexing:

http://www.parktool....howto.asp?id=64

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Nice reply Edman. Now back to the thesis, break's over.

 

Just one correction, G-springs are only R14 each and you need two. It still gives me a thrill each time I replace them and think of the comparative cost of the competitive alternative.

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Nice reply Edman. Now back to the thesis, break's over.

 

Just one correction, G-springs are only R14 each and you need two. It still gives me a thrill each time I replace them and think of the comparative cost of the competitive alternative.

 

 

Johan, is this something I can replace myself?

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Johan, is this something I can replace myself?

It depends on how technically adept you are. I've done it myself and it's pretty straightforward (it's designed to be serviceable), but there are a couple of fiddly bits.

 

Here are two Youtube videos on the process:

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It depends on how technically adept you are. I've done it myself and it's pretty straightforward (it's designed to be serviceable), but there are a couple of fiddly bits.

 

Here are two Youtube videos on the process:

 

 

Thanks Edman.

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Nice reply Edman. Now back to the thesis, break's over.

 

Just one correction, G-springs are only R14 each and you need two. It still gives me a thrill each time I replace them and think of the comparative cost of the competitive alternative.

 

WOW!!!!!!...... must be amazing to live a life so filled with thrills..... lucky you.

 

I am looking for a company that makes helicopter servo's that will not break like kempekkernoglia and smoothly keep on working like Shimano...... have you come across such a company in your thrilling existence????????

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