Automatic Shifting

[1hill@aTime]

So my bike has been on automode for awhile which is pretty iritating, but what has happened now is along with it's auto shifting it has been pushing my chain right over into my spokes, now having a rear wheel out of true, i'm gonna send her into the LBS,

 

What could be the reason for this happening?

[dirtrider]

Chain into spokes = limit screw on derailure not set properly

 

Auto shifting or Gost shifting = Your rear derailure needs some fine tuning .

[1hill@aTime]

Thanks i have set the limit screw, seems to be better,

 

still have to send it in to fix the wheel,

 

The barrel adjuster got stripped at a previous LBS so reason i'm using a new one, can this be fixed?

[dirtrider]

On most system you can use the barrel adjuster either on the derailure side on at top at the shifters . Anything is possible but it will not be easy .

[1hill@aTime]

I'm using Campy, so none by the shifters, only on the downtube but the adjustments are very fine

[Zaskar09]

Full suss?

[dirtrider]

Must be a road bike !!!!

[1hill@aTime]

Yip roadie, should i mention i wear booties sometimes

[Zaskar09]

I'm using Campy, so none by the shifters, only on the downtube but the adjustments are very fine

 

 

Must be a road bike !!!!

 

My bad

[AndreZA]

I'm using Campy, so none by the shifters, only on the downtube but the adjustments are very fine

 

Downtube and derailleur should have. On Cannondales they don't have on the downtube but they add it inline between the cable stop and shifters. There are always two places on a cable.

 

I don't know about the auto shifting but like it's been mentioned before, the overshifting is a limited screw issue.

[Zaskar09]

Unintentional upshifting is a fairly common complaint, particularly with strong riders who use fairly flexible frames. The typical symptom is that the bike shifts up to the next smaller rear sprocket when you stand and pedal hard.

 

The first thing most people check is the shift lever, and back in the days of friction shift levers that required periodic re-adjustment, this was often the cause. Most friction shift levers have a screw or wing nut to regulate the friction. If this screw becomes too loose, automatic upshifting will result. Sometimes, however, the problem is not due to insufficient friction, and tightening the lever won't cure it.

 

With the advent of indexed shifting, the problem is much less prevalent than it used to be, but it can also occur with index systems. When it does, you don't even have a friction regulation screw to adjust.

 

The usual cause of the problem, believe it or not, is the cable guide that the derailer cable uses to get around the bottom bracket. As you pedal the bike, the frame flexes from side to side. This causes the gear cable to get tighter and looser with every other pedal stroke.

 

If the bottom-bracket cable guide has too much friction, it can act as a one-way clutch, pulling the cable down from the lever, but not allowing it to retract on the opposite pedal stroke. In many cases, greasing the cable guide is all that is required.

 

In one particularly bad case, that of a large, strong racer with an old steel bike, I had to use more heroic measures. I installed a Sturmey-Archer pulley that clamped onto the bottom of the seat tube in place of the original cable guide. This eliminated the problem.

 

Courtesy Mr Sheldon Brown

[1hill@aTime]

Thanks Zaskar read that this morning, It must be me that's so powerful and bending my carbon frame

[Zaskar09]

Yip, wish I had your legs. Thats the only thing I could find

[Oli G]

I'm having the same problem and I know it is due to my cables being very dirty and worn. I just haven't had time to change them. My derailer also overshifts into the spokes and I think that it is actually also due to bad cables as it didn't do it before the cables wore out.

[Ha Ha Kieran]

You should toss the campy and ride SRAM instead

[1hill@aTime]

Probably going Sram in december, but have a few ks and races to get through until then