Automatic Shifting

[Cyclewizz]

You should toss the campy and ride SRAM instead

 

Don't listen to Ha Ha, nobody else does.

BTW, where were you on Sunday Ha Ha ? That dude wanted to give you your rubber back.

 

 

Your problem is two fold.

1) You have very powerful legs

2) your love for SBR, you seem to think that it's all flat

[1hill@aTime]

1) probably right...

2) was there this weekend, problem with bike started there climbing those hills i couldn't feel a chain so go worried?

[Johan Bornman]

Unintentional upshifting is a fairly common complaint, particularly with strong riders who use fairly flexible frames. The typical symptom is that the bike shifts up to the next smaller rear sprocket when you stand and pedal hard.

 

The first thing most people check is the shift lever, and back in the days of friction shift levers that required periodic re-adjustment, this was often the cause. Most friction shift levers have a screw or wing nut to regulate the friction. If this screw becomes too loose, automatic upshifting will result. Sometimes, however, the problem is not due to insufficient friction, and tightening the lever won't cure it.

 

With the advent of indexed shifting, the problem is much less prevalent than it used to be, but it can also occur with index systems. When it does, you don't even have a friction regulation screw to adjust.

 

The usual cause of the problem, believe it or not, is the cable guide that the derailer cable uses to get around the bottom bracket. As you pedal the bike, the frame flexes from side to side. This causes the gear cable to get tighter and looser with every other pedal stroke.

 

If the bottom-bracket cable guide has too much friction, it can act as a one-way clutch, pulling the cable down from the lever, but not allowing it to retract on the opposite pedal stroke. In many cases, greasing the cable guide is all that is required.

 

In one particularly bad case, that of a large, strong racer with an old steel bike, I had to use more heroic measures. I installed a Sturmey-Archer pulley that clamped onto the bottom of the seat tube in place of the original cable guide. This eliminated the problem.

 

Courtesy Mr Sheldon Brown

 

Energade and leaky water bottles cause this as well. The sticky syrup drips down the bottle, onto the downtube/seat tube and ends up at the lowest point - the BB and its cable guide. There the water evaporates, leaving behind a gooey residue that causes friction in the cable and ultimately, ghost shifting.

 

Last week I had a bike that ghost-shifted thanks to a microdot application. This stuff was sprayed everywhere, including the cables. The cable is now no longer microdotted. I hope no-onoe steals the cable.

[1hill@aTime]

Johan B i noticed that too a few weeks ago cleaned it all the shifting became a lot easier but still not hundred percent, hope the LBS get her sorted,

[CAAD4]

Damn. I thought you were going to share the so called benefits of Di2......