Caerus Posted December 2, 2010 Share Thats what i figured though nobody has mentioned anything. I would almost consider that a stock setup. Is that whats on the list from Santa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covie Posted December 2, 2010 Share Yeah i have it on good authority that the old coot will give me a wheelset, Santa has a limited budget though so cant go for the really fancy stuff. also put in a request in triplicate for two new stems and two new handlebars ,,,,, sigh we will see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 2, 2010 Share Yeah i have it on good authority that the old coot will give me a wheelset, Santa has a limited budget though so cant go for the really fancy stuff. also put in a request in triplicate for two new stems and two new handlebars ,,,,, sigh we will see. Shimano XT Wheels 15mm CRC they are saying the XTR trailset is 1700g, a conti race king is +_ 700g so Im guessing a XT to be possibly 1800g max The XTR race set is saying 1500g Shimano XT Wheels 15mm Edited December 2, 2010 by Caerus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasher Posted December 2, 2010 Share I would be interested to know the weights for a XT wheelset with XT rotors and XT cassette tubless with Conti race at the back and a conti mountain in front, anyone have this combo's weight avail? Covie I have a set of XT's with 2.2 raceking and 2.2 mountain kingXT casette and XTR rotors 180 front and 160 rear they are sitting in the garage but dont have a scale I want to see what they weigh compared to my Crests and Hutchinson Cobra's so when I get a chance will take all 4 and weigh them and post results but prob wont be for a few days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topwine Posted December 2, 2010 Share This is actually a very interesting thread since the topic is something I have debated with myself for a while now. First I'll state my 2 wheel sets . Anthem 1: Front Complete Mavic 819 UST disc 28 hole Maxxis Larsen TT LUST 2.1 50 ml Sealant DT Swiss 370 hub 160 mm Avid rotor 28 Spokes (?) Total weight - 1850 g Back CompleteMavic 819 UST disc 28 holeMaxxis Larsen TT LUST 2.150 ml SealantDT Swiss 370 hub160 mm Avid rotor28 Spokes(?)CassetteTotal weight - 2350 g Flat proof Training's: Front Complete Mavic 317 disc 32 hole Maxxis Larsen TT wire bead 1.9 proprietary tyre liner Tube 50 ml Sealant Shimano Deore hub 160 mm Shimano rotor 32 SS Spokes Total weight - 2250 g Back CompleteMavic 317 disc 32 holeMaxxis Larsen TT wire bead 1.9proprietary tyre liner Tube50 ml SealantShimano XT hub160 mm Shimano rotor32 SS SpokesCassetteTotal weight - 2950 g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topwine Posted December 2, 2010 Share Now as to my observations ... The science and calculation show that roughly for 100 grams saved on the tyre/rim is worth 200 grams on the bike/rider. Now while that does not seem to be much, or worthwhile, anyone that has worked with flywheels, knows how much harder it is to accelerate a bigger and heavier wheel. Now does acceleration count for much? I really don't know since I don't race to win, but there has to be a reason why the pro's always try to get away with the lightest wheels possible for the terrain. I also know from experience that especially in MTB'ing losing your momentum is a bitch, especially when you are tiring, and you tend to lose it often. Getting up to speed again takes some effort, especially if going uphill ! Anyhow, I could test the difference practically for myself. I ride a specific 26 km "Time Trial" course for training often, and I am about 10 min slower on the heavier wheels on average. This was the idea though, to make me stronger on the training wheels and to spare my more expensive wheels for races. One advantage of the heavier wheels, is that I find I go much faster downhills, and keep the momentum a bit longer, once I get going ! One thing I have found after putting my new training set on, was that it was considerably slower at first, only for me to find out that a common problem with factory hubs is for the bearings to be too tightly set by the nut on the axle. Once I figure that out, the wheels turned a lot smoother ! One also has to be careful to not tighten the skewers too hard, that can put too much pressure on the hub bearings as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swift01 Posted December 3, 2010 Share One thing I have noticed since I put the new wheels on is the acceleration. I think where yu save the weight on the wheels matters a lot. Both my wheelsets are virtually the same weight but one has heavier rims with light hubd while the other is heavier hubs but lighter rims. Old wheel DT Swiss XR 4.1 Rim 425grams Plus 2.0/1.8/2.0 Spokes and Rubber tubeless rim strip, 12mm Brass nipples New Wheels ZTR Alpine Rim 330grams Plus 2.0/1.5/2.0 Spokes and light No Tubes tape for tubeless, 12mm Brass nipples That would be a saving of at least 100grams per wheel at the Rim which is where it matters the most. . I was doing the normal Teak route for the first time with the new wheels, and at first I thought the faster accelaration was just my imagination, but near the beginning of Teak on the Blue/Black route you have the 3 switchbacks/loops going off the dirt road. After the 3rd switch back I realised the new wheels definately accelarate much faster. In fact I was able to accelarate nearly all the way up the 3rd switch back going towards the dirt road. I kept getting faster and faster until I will confess I went too fast and ran out of talent and went a bit wide on a slight s-bend, causing me to loose all the momentum I had built up. I can't ever remember being able get to such a speed up that route and keep it going for so long. One would really need to do tests with the same bike, heart rate monitor, Cadence meter, Power Meter etc same route, done at least 4 times in the same conditions on 4 different days, where one day you start with the old wheels the other day you start with the new wheels to even the playing field. I think the bottom line is going from a really heavy set of wheels like 2.9kg for a rear wheel to 1.6kg for a rear wheel will give you a huge difference, but going from 1650 to 1630 I think the biggest difference one will Flex. which wheel is stiffer than the other. No wait the bottom line will be Bling, which wheels draw more conversation. Never under estimate the bling :-) Show us your Wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 3, 2010 Share One thing I have noticed since I put the new wheels on is the acceleration. I think where yu save the weight on the wheels matters a lot. Both my wheelsets are virtually the same weight but one has heavier rims with light hubd while the other is heavier hubs but lighter rims. Old wheel DT Swiss XR 4.1 Rim 425grams Plus 2.0/1.8/2.0 Spokes and Rubber tubeless rim strip, 12mm Brass nipples New Wheels ZTR Alpine Rim 330grams Plus 2.0/1.5/2.0 Spokes and light No Tubes tape for tubeless, 12mm Brass nipples That would be a saving of at least 100grams per wheel at the Rim which is where it matters the most. . I was doing the normal Teak route for the first time with the new wheels, and at first I thought the faster accelaration was just my imagination, but near the beginning of Teak on the Blue/Black route you have the 3 switchbacks/loops going off the dirt road. After the 3rd switch back I realised the new wheels definately accelarate much faster. In fact I was able to accelarate nearly all the way up the 3rd switch back going towards the dirt road. I kept getting faster and faster until I will confess I went too fast and ran out of talent and went a bit wide on a slight s-bend, causing me to loose all the momentum I had built up. I can't ever remember being able get to such a speed up that route and keep it going for so long. One would really need to do tests with the same bike, heart rate monitor, Cadence meter, Power Meter etc same route, done at least 4 times in the same conditions on 4 different days, where one day you start with the old wheels the other day you start with the new wheels to even the playing field. I think the bottom line is going from a really heavy set of wheels like 2.9kg for a rear wheel to 1.6kg for a rear wheel will give you a huge difference, but going from 1650 to 1630 I think the biggest difference one will Flex. which wheel is stiffer than the other. No wait the bottom line will be Bling, which wheels draw more conversation. Never under estimate the bling :-) Show us your Wheels Not sure if I missed it, but where are your wheelset weights? 1.6kg for the Rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swift01 Posted December 3, 2010 Share I just used 1.6kg as an example my new one is actually a bit lighter at the rear FrontStans Alpine Rim, DT Swiss revolution Spokes, Hope Pro 2 hub = 690gRotor Claimed weight = 104gTire Intense System 2 Claimed weight = 500gSlime Stans 2oz = 57gSkewer = 62g Total Front = 1413g Rear Wheel Stans Alpine Rim, DT Swiss revolution Spokes, Hope Pro 2 hub = 800gRotor Claimed weight = 104gTire Kenda Small Block 8 Non Tubeless Claimed weight = 500gSlime Stans 2oz = 57gSkewer = 75g Total Rear = 1536g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 3, 2010 Share I just used 1.6kg as an example my new one is actually a bit lighter at the rear FrontStans Alpine Rim, DT Swiss revolution Spokes, Hope Pro 2 hub = 690gRotor Claimed weight = 104gTire Intense System 2 Claimed weight = 500gSlime Stans 2oz = 57gSkewer = 62g Total Front = 1413g Rear Wheel Stans Alpine Rim, DT Swiss revolution Spokes, Hope Pro 2 hub = 800gRotor Claimed weight = 104gTire Kenda Small Block 8 Non Tubeless Claimed weight = 500gSlime Stans 2oz = 57gSkewer = 75g Total Rear = 1536g Thats with no cassette then at the rear? , Im sure when they fitted my new tyre, they have used toooo much Stans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swift01 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Aaaaah forgot the rear cassette. 280grams Sram 11-32 = 1816gWhen I first put the new wheels etc on the front definately felt lighter than the back (the balance of the bike) but I made a mistake on the front tubeless so had a leak. Took the bike to the shop to have the cables made shorter and the leak was fixed. I suspect thjey have filled the front with tons of stans as now the balance has shifted to the front feeling heavy. So it's possible bike shops load it to make sure it will seal. I'll sort mine out this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 3, 2010 Share Aaaaah forgot the rear cassette. 280grams Sram 11-32 = 1816gWhen I first put the new wheels etc on the front definately felt lighter than the back (the balance of the bike) but I made a mistake on the front tubeless so had a leak. Took the bike to the shop to have the cables made shorter and the leak was fixed. I suspect thjey have filled the front with tons of stans as now the balance has shifted to the front feeling heavy. So it's possible bike shops load it to make sure it will seal. I'll sort mine out this weekend PHEW, thought I had the heaviest rear wheels on the planet then, lol. Well with my tyre weight differance, extra 100g of slime i'm sure they have put into my wheel & the rim differance, Im not far off yours - I see that CWC are doing a full UST @ 500g now, not sure what the tyre is like though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swift01 Posted December 3, 2010 Share If I went for different nipples and hubs I could have brought the weight down quite a bit more, but the budget said no. One can also pay a mere 2500 per rotor, which will give you 55grams of titanium babies. What make of tire is it? Be careful of tubeless Ust and tubeless 2bliss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 3, 2010 Share https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/91383-cwc-online-dont-miss-out-guys/page__p__1243449__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=1243449 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swift01 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Cyclelab sells them. I could be wrong (this may be a newer model) but they had ones they claimed were tubeless but the are actually 2bliss and weigh about 500, they also had same ones but heavier that had the UST stamp on them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted December 3, 2010 Share Cyclelab sells them. I could be wrong (this may be a newer model) but they had ones they claimed were tubeless but the are actually 2bliss and weigh about 500, they also had same ones but heavier that had the UST stamp on them Not sure, The appear to be a Czech company, and cant find any reviews online Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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