2nd Hand Racing Wheels: "I Am Unsure of Buying Them..."

[Edge_Design]

Thanx for your honest view, Edge D...

 

Are these tubular?

Weight estimation for both?

 

Thanx for your comment.

 

Both tubbies... The EC90's have a claimed weight of 1175g with fairly low profile rims, serious climbing wheels. The others are about 60mm profile (I think) and weigh approx. 1300g...

 

I don't know how much of a shelf life wheels have, but you can service/replace bearings and freehub which I would think are the only parts that really wear out (unless you're talking about some very well used wheels) so you are fairly safe with a set of used wheels that are in good condition visibly (I stand to be corrected here, but this has worked out for me so far!). If they've got slightly higher mileage on them then ask the seller to cover the cost of servicing them at a reputable shop.

Edited January 5, 2011 by Edge_Design

['Dale]

Both tubbies... The EC90's have a claimed weight of 1175g with fairly low profile rims, serious climbing wheels. The others are about 60mm profile (I think) and weigh approx. 1300g...

 

I don't know how much of a shelf life wheels have, but you can service/replace bearings and freehub which I would think are the only parts that really wear out (unless you're talking about some very well used wheels) so you are fairly safe with a set of used wheels that are in good condition visibly (I stand to be corrected here, but this has worked out for me so far!). If they've got slightly higher mileage on them then ask the seller to cover the cost of servicing them at a reputable shop.

If you can, PM me the selling price of the EC 90s.

[Weight Weenie]

How bout these ? 1200g tubless setup http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/42_683/products_id/520

[The_Break]

Whether 2nd hand or new I would recommend going carbon, tubbies, with at least a 48mm section and insure them. You will know what I mean when you put a set of these on youur bike. You feel a big difference when compared to a normal set of training wheels when you sprinting, climbing.

 

Most aero wheel on the market at the moment are the HEDS. I think they are 60mm deep. There was a big test conducted in the USA where they came out tops above all the good wheels including Zipp and they are pretty light. My training partner who raced with the old Subway Pro Team rode with them and he swore by them, not to mention he has ridden almost half the wheels out there. I would seriously consider these.

 

Most important things to check on 2nd hand wheels:

 

Carbon breaking surface is in good condition with some life left.

Tubby surface is good as I have seen rims where the surface actually peels away when well glued tyres are ripped off.

Wheel is still true.

Obvioulsly no cracks or repair marks.

Wheels spin freely with no "coursness" when held in fingers.

There is no play when inserted into a frame. You will feel this by rocking the wheel from side to side and will feel the play. Flex is normal when you test this though.

Check the spokes/nipples are not corroded shut. This will make it very difficult to true any rims or may mean having to replace a whole lot of spokes and nipples.

Check the freewheel runs nicely and does not have any side to side play.

 

Good luck man! I must be honest though, there is nothing as nice as buying a nice new set of race wheels and sticking them on your bike for the first time and then heading out on the road.

[Christie]

I would caution against low weight obscession. If you want a light bike that rides at the same speed, fine. Lighter wheels are only faster over long climbs, the like of which we don't race on in SA. If you want to go actually go a small bit faster, go for more aerodynamic wheels. Imo Zipp 404s @ 1250g is the way to go. If you can't stand the thought of 68g extra, go for 303s @ 1182g