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slime / gorilla snot / sludge


davetapson

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or ........ you not riding that much in 'uncharted' territory?

Not true ' date=' I have seen Scotty going over a pavemunt once .[/quote']

 

GGRRRR Angry OK you asked for it LOL

 

 

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Dunno about tubes and sealant not being so hot.  My experience is that with the right sealant they're 100%. 

 

The green snot did as described - leaked out between the tube and tyre and was useless.  

 

The cream coloured fibrous stuff hardly leaked at all.  You'd get a 1cm area of stickiness around the hole on the tube, and that's about it.  

 

The tube that I replaced with the Giant tube was very thin, and it seemed to seal just fine with the sealant that it had in it.  The only reason I had to replace it was that a rock was thrown up by my truck while it was on the bicycle rack and burst the tyre sidewall and tube.  Otherwise it was still fine.

 

The issue seems that you need the right sealant. 

 
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Not going to play with the stuff' date=' want to set up a series of controlled experiments to see what influences the liftetime of these compounds.  I for one would want to know more or less how long I can trust the gunk to work in sealing a "normal" puncture.  [/quote']

 

Nice idea, but dont forget to standardise all the variables.

 

These are: temperature (note the ambient temperature and come up with some sort of standardised average) and tyre type and size.

 

However, there's really no need to come up with some sort of standard which will in anyway be meaningless if the conditions vary. If there's enough liquid inside the tyre, it will seal. Simply test your wheels each time you wash your bike by holding the wheel in the quarter to three position with both hands and shaking it. If you can hear and feel a good solid schlosh inside, they will seal. If not, put some more snot in.

 

JB

 

JB, this is what I do for a living, so don't fret about the variables...Big%20smile and the point of the excersize is that the sloshing liquid stops doing the sealing bit after a while (whilst still sloshing quite convincingly); there is chemistry involved here that I want to have a look at.
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It actually is not that complicated ! When a hole appears any where in the tyre the sealant wanna go out of the hole ! When it get on the outside it get solid ! Sloshing around etc will not make a difference .

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It actually is not that complicated ! When a hole appears any where in the tyre the sealant wanna go out of the hole ! When it get on the outside it get solid ! Sloshing around etc will not make a difference .

 

Unless its green slime.  Sloshes plenty? Yes.  Gets solid? Nope.  Not even a bit. Not if it's in a hole, not between the tube and tyre, not on the bike frame and not even on your camelbak or in your hair...
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Dave, I found the "Slime" to be quite effective in sealing holes/punctures. It was only once it got "old" did it stop sealing the holes/punctures. And at R45.00 a bottle, it makes financial sense to me to use it rather than go full Tubeless.

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[

 

JB' date= this is what I do for a living, so don't fret about the variables...Big%20smile and the point of the excersize is that the sloshing liquid stops doing the sealing bit after a while (whilst still sloshing quite convincingly); there is chemistry involved here that I want to have a look at.
[/quote]

 

Fantastic! I look forward to the results and if you're looking for an eventual home for your experiment, I'd love to host it on www.yellowsaddle.co.za (revised website coming soon).

 

JB
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I'm gonna hijack my own thread... hey Johan, what will a set of tubless rims of the same quality that I currently have on my GT iDrive 4 1.0 cost?   They are DT Swiss 455 (I think?) with onyx hubs.

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I'm gonna hijack my own thread... hey Johan' date=' what will a set of tubless rims of the same quality that I currently have on my GT iDrive 4 1.0 cost?   They are DT Swiss 455 (I think?) with onyx hubs.[/quote']

 

check this out:

 

 

Surely you'd want a better set of rims. DT Swiss is new to the rim business and has a lot to learn. Their rims crack at the spoke holes. I make a fortune (not) fixing wheels with DT Swiss rims. The best part (for me) is that replacing those rims with other rims requires new spokes because DT Swiss decided to make their rim profile fit with none of the popular profiles.

 

PM me and we'll continue this off-line.

 

JB
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I use the specialized tubes with the slime in them and have had great success.  On occassion I get a puncture and my tyre goes down a bit but then I just pump it up again and I'm on my way. 

At some point I should probably replace them as I have a feeling there are at least 10 slime filled punctures per tube at the moment.

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Other than something which would get Green Peace all bitter and twisted about the extraction method of the Snot from Gorillas in The Congo, what the hell is Gorilla Snot?

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From http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/index.htm which is given on joe's site:

 

- Every 90 days, pull off your tire, remove the goop and replace with new sealant. If you don't it gets thick and gels up.

- Stan's sealant weakens the rubber in tire sidewalls. After a few months, the tire may blow out. Specialized brand tires and Panaracers seem more prone to this.

- Tires vary in their ability to tolerate Stan's sealant. This is especially important with non-UST (standard) tires used tubeless. The chemicals in Stan's attack the rubber. Some tires hold up well; others will rupture within weeks. It's a difference in the mix of rubber. Ask other riders for their experiences then pick a tire that will hold up.

 

I've got Bontrager Revolt Super X's - is Stans gonna eat through my tyres and have them fall to pieces in the middle of the Epic..?
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Been running my Bontragers with Stans now for about 8 months . Had the tyres of the rims last weekend and they looked just fine on the inside . The only tyre I came across that reacted to Stans was my Kenda Karma 1.95 that started to make "bubbles" on the inside after a few months . The Larsons range and Conti's hold up very well thus far .

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