Spray painting a Fox fork - any advice?

[Airborne]

I have a black Fox fork that that doesn't do my new frame any justice.

Has anyone every tried this, any advice, what paints to use, clear coat etc....

 

Apparently peeling is a major issue if you don't use the right paint.

 

Any advice?

[Top Fuel]

Try a panel beaters.

[Vinnydabutcher]

Cycle Art should be able to do this.

 

016 590 1146

[crasher]

You could also speak to Mike at Mikes Bikes I saw some of the forks he had done looks just like factory finish.

[KaKa]

y do guys refer u to pro's when u wanna DIY

 

I know there are paints that require harderner and others don't

touch up paint does not

I am no expert... I would use the spray can and clear lacquer, of course fine sandpaper

to make the paint adhere better

chat with the guys at the paint shop

[Airborne]

Thanks for all the advice.

Just a bit worried about chips that may lead to peeling.

[Jono Waddell]

Hi,

 

I had mine sprayed and it came out so well. I had a panel beater mate do it for me. They used 2k paint which made it nice and glossy and strong. Then got some decals from Tyrone (Vinyl Guy) here on the hub.

[The Drongo]

Thanks for all the advice.

Just a bit worried about chips that may lead to peeling.

 

AIRBORNE

 

If it is a new fork I would leave it be until it has passed any warranty periods.

 

If you want to do it properly, you should remove the lowers from the fork, remove the dust seals at the top, tape the openings at the top and plug the bolt holes at the bottom with prestick.

If you want to DIY I have found Hammerite rattle-can spray to be the strongest.You will have to wait at least 1 week after spraying before reassembly though. Colours are limited.

A spray shop should be able to do a good 2k job. If you put new decals on have the logos printed onto a decent thick clear vinyl that will fit the full length of the leading part of the lowers. This helps protect them.

[Airborne]

Thanks for the advice Drongo.

[gummibear]

PM Tyrone he will sort you out with the decals.He has some very nice goodies for forks

[LOUDMAC]

Airborne.

First remove all and any stickers.

use a fine(use a 160 or higher sand paper)

Wipe down with thinners or alcohol( NOT VODKA)

Mask off ALL areas you DON"T want painted, take your time with this.....it's all in the preparation.

Spray with primer using a consistent fluid motion.....kinda like flowing single track, or the paint WILL run, rather spray 2 fine layers.

Allow to dry.

Sand again with ultra fine sand paper, above 160. WIPE ALL CRAP OFF with tack cloth.

NOW with the new color spray with fine layers repeating after drying until you have the finish you want.

NOW spray with clear coat.

For BEST results use automotive paints.........TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!

 

Good luck.

[javadude]

In the states you can buy automotive 2K in rattle cans, pity its not available in SA.

[KaKa]

If you strip a alum fork/ frame u must use a alum primer call etch primer. Duco has a product DurathneK etch primer and activator

Costs about R130 and R60

Another product I found is UPOL acid 8 in a aerosol can R140

This must be used or the paint will peel

Info for hubbers who might search in future as I could not find it when I searched.

Edited January 24, 2012 by Kaka'

[KaKa]

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[EigerSA]

if you know how to spray and have the equipment then head out to your local industrial paint supplier, very often they'll give you a sample of paint - you'll have to pay for it, but I get 250ml testers from my guys. A fork wont take much more than 150ml, even with multiple coats. To prevent peeling, make sure the fork is 100% degreased and you must use a primer (well depending on the paint system anyway).

 

You can use rattle can laquers, plenty guys do all over the place. But same rules apply, degrease properly, use a primer and spray away. With rattle cans, less is more, so rather put on lots of thin coats as opposed to fewer heavy coats - only because the pressure wont remain the same throughout the entire spray time. I think you'll also probably go through a bit more paint. For a nice shiny and slightly more protective finish, make your final coat a clear one.

 

**didn't realise this thread was so old lol

Edited January 24, 2012 by EigerSA

[KaKa]

There is no “old” threads just worn threads LOL. This is purely for information and future reference.

 

I used the U-POL primer this weekend and it worked fine, dries quickly and goes on smoothly, it is a bigger can than the normal spray cans, thus I think it should do a bike. I used lacquer thinners not mineral thinners it is less “oily” to clean the surface. Sprayed the primer left it over nite, sprayed the basecoat left it over nite. Put the decals on and clear coat left to dry. Some say leave for a week.

 

I sprayed a 1:5 ratio using the cups u buy for spray painting. Very happy with the result

Edited January 30, 2012 by Kaka'