MudLark

Doug, Have you had a proper bike fit done? Maybe go see Richard Baxter at Dunkeld Cycles. Makes a very big difference. Otherwise, as suggested, a good coach can help. And commitment and patience. Depending upon your genetics, it can take some time.

Interesting. Sounds like a plan. What's the best route for something like this?

Hi Sebastian – I sent you a PM.

Yes, I have disabled mine. Sometimes it will trigger on the road bike when it shouldn't. But more than that, last time it triggered and my son drew it to my wife's attention she simply looked at him and said 'I wonder what he has gone and done now?". I didn't even get a sympathy call. Which is when I realised that I really am on my own. ???? Now I just wear my Discovery bracelet and hope for the best.

Hi Sebastian, What do you want it for and are you looking to buy or to rent or what? I have a 9.6 XL with 2x10 XT drivetrain. It is basically a brand-new bike. I haven't done 200 km on it. I put drop bars on it but still have all the original parts. Cheers, Mudlark

I have had one of the previous model versions (the square one) for some years now. I go nowhere without it. It works well and it has never given any trouble. It integrates with my 1030 and I can see how many of what is coming, roughly at what distance and it gives me an indication at what speed. I can only imagine that the new version is better. I understand that the basic device was originally invented by some lads in Stellenbosch who sold it to Garmin.

The tune ID ties into a manual accessible on the Fox website which gives you information on how to set up the specific shocks.

Momsen has the best drivetrain (1x12). Can't tell whether the brakes are cable operated or hydraulic. If they are hydraulic, I would take the Momsen. Look after your SRAM rear cassette though and change chains when they get to 0.5 wear. SRAM cassettes are not cheap. Then save to upgrade the brakes in due course to Shimano or SRAM. You might find a good compatible used set on this site.

Did you ride longish rides before the bike fit? Did you have this problem before the bike fit?

I tend to check their website fairly regularly. Today I can't access it at all – blocked. And it's the only website which I cannot access today. So there is definitely something going on.

Price is not always an indicator of quality but there is some truth in the saying 'if you have cheap head, get a cheap helmet'. I look for a number of things, including: fit and comfort airflow in a MTB helmet, protection down behind ear, lower part of the back of the head etc. a really tough outer shell (not one of those that's like an eggshell) MIPS if possible (still not sure if its overrated). So far I've had Fox, Bell, Bontrager. All of them good. I've regrettably crash tested two helmets to way beyond redemption. The tough outer shell matters.

No. But why? What is the issue with plastic?

Every time I get off my 29er onto my very old and battered 26er I'm always "Sho but this thing handles!". In many ways a 26er is a sweeter bike.

Eina! Gesundheit!

Also never seen it before. But looking around the web cracked and broken rollers seem to be not all that unusual in motorcycles and industrial applications. One chain supplier lists possible causes as follows: Build up between chain and sprocket High shock loads or overloading Poor lubrication Corrosion I wonder if a small stone didn't get in somewhere in this case and maybe cause the roller to crack? Hard to know. Could just be a simple materials defect.

Doug, I've been there, done that. My first year every morning at 4am was the hardest thing I've ever done. Especially in the dark cold of the Highveld mornings. My first ride of 5km and like 20m of climb nearly killed me. For a long time there even the runners were faster up the hills than I was. The regular cyclists came past me like I was looking for parking. 3.5 years later I'm in a very different place. Very different. Its all about sticking with it and consistency. ChrisF is right. You've just go to keep riding. No other way really. A good coach can help though. Re the road bike, if its Shimano, a mountain bike cassette and long cage derailleur can give you a lot more gearing. Useful, especially if you're a bit older and a bit heavier. If you have a compact 50/34 crank you can get a mountain bike cassette with a 34 tooth big gear. That gives you an nice 1:1 for the really tough and long climbs. It helps a lot if you're struggling in the early days. Or just stick with a mountain bike to start with. Get a set of fast rolling tyres (eg Continental Race King) and you'll be golden.

Couldn't agree more.

Makes two of us!

Theo, it's obviously your call. As long as you're sure that pin won't move (dislocate). If it does, you really don't want to be up on the pedals when it happens. Me personally, I'd rather toss the chain. The few hundred Rand IMHO isn't worth any kind of risk. But your engineering skills are likely better than mine too. Not sure this type of defect will be visible with inspection by the naked eye. Suspect there was a materials defect and that roller cracked and dropped out. Unusual though and probably quite a rare thing to happen.

CGSO complaint costs nothing. Hard to see in a case like this how you won't come right.

True. But I was thinking of the Consumer Protection Act. Supplier doesn't have a choice AFAIK.

If it's only got 500km on, it's probably less than 6 months old. If I am not mistaken, the chain is therefore by law still under warranty. Ask the supplier to replace it. It's clearly a factory defect. Rollers don't simply fall off.

It's taken me about 2 years to get into the purple zone. Changing diet and various other factors also helped. I've consistently used a power meter and HRM throughput.

Anyone used a dry PTFE lube?

https://www.renold.com/company/latest-news/properly-lubricated-chains-last-longer/