mountain_lion

There was a similar thread a while ago; can't find it now, but try these... https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=39531 https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=51001

Life time of chain & cassette depends on conditions you ride in and chain hygiene.

https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=60363&PID=902084#902084 https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=56179 Search function will find you many more threads on this topic...

I have never used a torque wrench for centre lock or cassette either (only have the small BBB torque wrench). You only need to worry where over torque can cause damage e.g. clamping Aluminium parts. Al thread will strip before the bolt...

BBB make a nice torque wrench for bicycle use. http://www.bbbparts.com/tools_torquefix-btl52.php Not too expensive either; I paid R800 for mine a few months ago. But 40Nm is not low; this tool only goes up to 24Nm (which is adequate for most bicycle applications where you are concerned about over torque). Also it is 1/8" drive size. Most centre lock tools are 1/2" drive so should fit on a standard socket set and torque wrench.

Get a presta to schrader adapter. http://www.nexternal.com/icycles/images/pvadapter.jpg

mrs & team ??? Must be confusing me with somebody else...

Going round the course twice Slowbee... Would love to be fit and fast enough one day to do that... Get value for money by stopping at all the water / Coke points which you miss the first time round. Perhaps I should try 1?; i.e. take the short cut from Fishhoek to Sun valley on the second loop.

There might be direct converters available, but I have never used any. What does work, is to import to SportTracks from where you can export to GPX. Why Garmin Training centre uses such an unfriendly proprietary format that is not even compatible with Garmin's other software I do not understand. Best not to even bother with Training Centre; just use SportTracks. http://www.zonefivesoftware.com/SportTracks/

Although the winning time for 2009 Burger MTB (Stellenbosch MTB) was set to 1 minute, it was still used for my seeding! It actually is my best event according to the PPA seeding page. The other 2 races used to calculate my seeding are the 2008 & 2007 Stellenbosch MTB events. 2009 Burger MTB was also used for mrs mountain_lion's seeding as well as her 2007 Knysna MTB event. Other more recent 2009 events (road & MTB) including the Argus, where I did not do too bad were not used to calculate my seeding. Last year I was in K and felt right at home there on the road. Now I have moved to I based on MTB events only, one dating back to 2007. This while PPA say most people will drop a few groups due to smaller groups. My riding might have improved, but not that much. I can see myself being dropped from line again at the next road ride... Now I am completely confused... Although since I am primarily a mountain biker, I don't care much about the seeding; I only do road rides to build a bit of speed. Still the PPA seeding seems to be one big f-up. mountain_lion2009-09-01 03:27:20

https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=58257

Ja, Ja Fanie; my comment oor die Argus was eintlik gemik op Shortlegs wat s? ons moenie worrie nie wat volgende Argus is nog ver... 2009 Argus was egter in Maart en PPA het toe al geweet wat almal se tye is en hoe dit die seedings sal beinvloed. Hulle het ook geweet hulle moet 'n seeding run doen in Julie. PPA het dus 4+ maande gehad om 'n plan te maak...

PM me if you are interested in a 2007 small Anthem 2 (with some upgrades).

Got nothing to do with Argus. AFAIK Argus seeding is based on specific seeding events and not on PPA seeding. Fact is that: Renewal date was set long ago. "Complications" of the windy Argus were known long ago (I still don't understand what is different this year - everybody faced the same conditions; just do the run like always ) Seeding and issuing of numbers is now 2 months late for no apparent reason and reflects badly on PPA management. Makes little difference to me personally; I am happy with my seeding and doubt that it will change much. However, I am starting to doubt if I want to be a member of an organisation that cannot even manage to make their own internal deadlines...

I am 1.7m and ride a small Anthem. Could perhaps just fit on a medium, but I prefer the small with the seat post raised to almost max. Handling is better. mountain_lion2009-08-25 14:40:50

Not good hear about DX going down hill... All my orders from them and Kaidomain arrived within a few weeks, no problem. I think the longest I waited was 3 weeks and then the hold up was with SA customs and post office. Have not ordered anything from Hong Kong recently though...

Never used no-name brand slicks myself, but at R80 what have you got to loose? Try them and let us know how they perform. Just inspect them often so that you can pick up problems before they catch you out on the road.

Jean Post some pics and beam shots of your light!

Well, after looking at various road bikes (including WSD) for mrs mountain_lion, she eventually got a Specialized Roubaix (here on TheHub, earlier this year) and she is very happy with it. Frame is not WSD as far as I know; Stem was already short from the previous lady owner. She only changed the saddle to her preferance.

Pics Kaka', pics!

Just got back from a leisurely ride on the road bikes to loosen up the legs after yesterday's Burger MTB. Went past and accident on the R304 between Stellenbosch and the Bottelary Rd (M23) turn off. Multiple cars involved and two cyclists down. At least it did not look too serious for the cyclists, but we did not stop. Hope they are OK. Police were on the scene. Must have happened between 17:00 and 17:15 today. Looked like some idiot tried to force a car in front into the yellow lane to over take. Cyclists must have been in the yellow lane heading out of Stellenbosch. Many cars heading into Stellenbosch had mirrors damaged and doors scraped on the right hand side. Anybody know more? Cyclists OK?

Kenda Karma is OK in the dry and mud for me, so I guess it can be considered an all purpose tyre, although I have not tried many others. For all conditions except very wet and muddy, Crossmarks are very good.

How did you try to adjust the brake pad? The following normally works for me: 1. Squeeze and release the lever a few times. 2. Loosen the caliper positioning bolts 3. Compress the lever completely. 4. Tighten the caliper positioning bolts a little a time alternating between the 2 bolts (just enough to so that caliper does not move). 5. Release lever and rotate the wheel and check for pad drag 6. Repeat 2 to 5 until happy. 7. Alternatively torque (8-10 Nm) the bolts a little at a time. Did you push the pistons completely back before installing the new pad? Use a large flat screwdriver and insert between the old pads and rock back and forth until the pistons are all the way back. Pistons do some times get stuck (especially if mud and dirt gets in there) and then need a bit more "persuasion" to get them back in.