Tomik

These get good reviews... https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/saddles/562601/farr-saddle

Get a decent saddle in 155 width. Don't worry about the length or the "lip" at the back. Spez Phenom is good and works for most people. You should find a used one for around a grand. If you want new, I'd look at the Giant/Pro saddles.

If it's an older frame, try the previous agent, Herman sales@abloc.co.za

+1 for Assioma's. Excellent pedals - transferable to any bike means you never lose your money.

Looks like Baradine. https://shovacycles.co.za/product/baradine-160mm-brake-rotor/

I agree that platform racks are the best especially if you'll be using it often. The hang on racks become a hassle over time but are fine for occasional use. I used a Saris Bones 3 on my Golf - no issues. Am sure it would work on a Polo. I would also look at the suction racks - SeaSucker, Treefrog and RockBros available locally. The only "issue" is some of the suction racks are only suitable for QR so a thru-axle adaptor is needed. The Treefrog adaptor was R850 which adds to the already pricey rack. But they work well on cars that can't take normal racks and are low enough for you to put your bike on the roof easily.

I had a very loud creak that I was convinced was from the BB or chainrings/bolts. Turns out is was the rear dropout. Trek has these weird adjustable dropouts. They were tight but over time dust etc. can cause it to creak/click with any load. It was actually the "alignment bolts" that were dry and creaking. On my MTB, a clicking I thought was in the derailleur (which I replaced) was actually a cracked hub (SRAM Roam wheelset) which was impossible to see/feel but my LBS knew all about it. Hope this helps.

I'd lean towards a 140mm trail bike like a Pyga Stage Max or similar. They are really good for XC too, but obviously not as light. I find the longer travel confidence inspiring. Broke my neck on my 120mm bike a few years ago so maybe I'm a bit biased. Those trails are rough but awesome so get the best components, especially wheels and suspension you can afford. And at least 2.4" tyres. Enjoy shopping!

For what it's worth, I have XX1 AXS on my gravel bike that has seen plenty of mud and sand and been fully submerged while cycling through a wetland after heavy rain. I have not adjusted it or lubed it or anything in over 3000km (I probably should, but it works perfectly). Not sure if the bearings in the cage are different to the GX but mine are still rolling smoothly.

Unfortunately that's what RAW thought too, but turns out they had/have the SLR frameset, which is not the same as the SLR01. Kind of like a Spez vs. S-works story but with more confusing naming.

I'm insured directly through a large brokerage, not a group scheme. My premiums are R6k a month. They screwed me around for 6 weeks to save R30k in the end. That's 5 months of premiums. That is not smart business. Had it been an old bike, with no warranty I would have been satisfied with a repair. But this was a newish, premium bike. BTW, as far as I know there are no repairers that are authorized by the manufacturers to repair carbon frames. While I don't doubt a repair would be safe, that's not the point. Santam couldn't get their heads around this.

Hi all. Thanks for your comments. I thought I would let you all know what transpired and the lessons learnt that may help somebody. The insurer was Santam with whom I insure my cars, house and household contents. I had a broker but am not so sure it added value. The bike (BMC Team Machine SLR01 with Dura-Ace di2) was insured for R125000 (probably the first mistake). Value new is c. R180000. The original assessment by Carbon Bicycle Repairs in Durbanville was to repair the frame but as that voids the warranty (thankfully BMC warranty extends to 2nd owner) I refused this offer, After getting Riders at Work involved (they recommended a replacement frameset on warranty grounds), Santam eventually agreed to replace the frame. They refused to pay the R90k that an equivalent frame would have cost (remember at that point to my knowledge there were no exact replacement frames available). RAW mistakenly sourced an SLR frame (value R36999) and Santam wanted to settle for R40k, which I again declined as it is the lower tier frameset. Thanks to information received on this thread, I sourced an exact replacement frameset from Abloc (previous agents I think) which is being couriered to my local bike shop as we speak. Final settlement value is c. R60k (frameset was on sale, plus rebuild and courier costs). This whole process has taken 6 weeks with lots of back-and-forth and frustration, all so Santam could save R30k. Lessons learnt: Check your policy and the insurers protocols (repair vs. replace) BEFORE you need to claim and get it in writing if possible. My broker did not explain any of this to me and the policy schedule is not specific either. Insure your bike for new replacement value, not the price you paid 2nd hand (or current "value"). Again, my broker did not give me advice on this. I spoke to Cyclesure and this is what they insist on. I believe it will give you a better bargaining position with all insurers. Premiums will be higher but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. If you buy used, try get the original invoice from the seller. Santam insisted on this but eventually gave in. They want to be able to verify the value of the bike as they think all their clients are trying to rip them off. I'll be switching my bicycle insurance to Cyclesure as I do not want to go through this frustration again. Hope this helps somebody.

I saw two M mountain bikes under R10k in the classifieds. A Scott and another one I can't recall (was late last night). If you go the new route, maybe best to get something a bit better than a makro bike as that will fall apart from the mileage. Maybe a 1x commuter bike will be more suited to his distances - less things to break/maintain. Not sure if Rook's are still available? I'm happy to contribute R1000 towards a better bike. DM me with bank details once you've decided.

This is an interesting one. It is not damage caused by an accident, I agree. But it is accidental damage. I would assume KP has specific clauses saying there must be an accident for a claim. by the way, I too am embroiled in a disputed claim and 100% agree that you get what you pay for. This insurer (who I will disclose once the dispute is resolved) insists on repairing a snapped top-end frame instead of replacing it. They were close to half the price of Cyclesure but when it comes to my first claim, they decline. Again, perhaps it would have been better to drive over the bicycle instead of being honest.

That's my view - it will not be exactly the same as before. The frame will look exactly the same (painting is easy), but I doubt very much that the carbon lay-up, weight etc. will be exactly the same. I'm not even sure how they repair a thin seat stay to manufacturers specifications that is meant to provide a certain level of stiffness AND compliance. They probably just repair the outer layers (but that's a big assumption on my part and I may well be very wrong).

To clarify, the seat stay appears cracked through i.e. snapped. Not a little "dent/scratch in the bumper". CBR did the assessment (as they do for all of this insurers claims) and said it can be repaired. Which it can. That's not the point. Just like the chassis of a 911 can be straightened. Doesn't mean it should be. Anyway, this thread was about the value of a repaired frame (thanks for all the replies). I guess the next step is enlightening readers to insurance standard operating procedure. It is clear there is a lot of confusion on the matter and probably differences in how different companies handle frame damage. If one can take anything from this, it is that it would be a good idea to get in writing what the insurers position is in cases like this before getting a nasty and expensive surprise.

Thanks, will check it out.

I am the second owner, bought from a BMC rep. The warranty still stands as per a new bike. I quote from BMC's website "The warranty begins with the purchase of a new BMC bike and continues in effect, if the bike is sold on. However, you must be able to provide the original receipt in order to file a warranty claim." So yes, a repair would compromise the warranty. I have said all this to the insurance company (whose name I shall disclose once I have a resolution, either way).

Am fighting with the insurance company (through a broker) and will update as soon as I can. It's a 56. 😉

Thanks for all the replies. I agree on the analogy and that is why I believe no manufacturer would authorise a repair. BMC certainly doesn't. I will disclose the insurers details once I get a resolution to my claim. It has been in limbo for a month now. I think it is important people realise that not all bicycle insurance is equal. I'm particularly annoyed as all my friend's cracked frames were replaced (all 4 of them were Tarmac S-works that had similar accident damage, maybe slightly worse). Maybe they got lucky. It's a pity we don't have diminished value claims in SA. In the US, you can claim for the difference in value/resale from an accident if the insurer repairs the vehicle. That after all is the point of insurance - to put you into the same financial position you were in before the event.

Hi guys. Quick question. What do you think a repaired BMC Team Machine SLR01 Disc frameset is worth? Bear in mind it comes with the seat post, stem and handlebar. Fully integrated cable routing. I had the misfortune of having a friend ride into me causing a small crack on the right seat stay. CBR says it is an easy repair (quoted R6900 to repair) and I don't disagree. However, I was planning to sell the whole bike before the accident, but not so sure that it's financially viable/smart now. Am fighting with insurance for a new frame but that's a story for another day/thread. Any opinions on what the going rate is on a repaired superbike frame? It costs about R90k new.

The actual word is irrelevant. He was obviously upset that OP didn't give him in his opinion sufficient warning of turning. Completely ignoring the fact that the cyclist was likely too close to the OPs car to start with. So the cyclist is basically blaming others for a situation he himself created. Quite common in our country of zero accountability. OP, while I understand your anger, just forget the incident and move on. Racists are everywhere and nothing will change.

As Philip mentioned, definitely the Bredasdorp MTB trails (not on a gravel bike!). They're called Heuningberg MTB Trails. This is proper MTB (not downhill, just raw rocky trails) with great views and tough climbs (but not too long). I did a 2 hour, 24km ride which was basically two different loops with about 2km overlap - was enough for me. I drove from Arniston and parked on the hospital side. I seem to recall paying for a permit using snapscan on the trail.

David George brings them in. He's at Gear Change in Cape Town. The Syncros Tofino is the same saddle. I got two of those from bike24.com for a bit cheaper. I found I sat more square on the gebiomized / tofino. David showed the pressure distribution in real time. The phenom was on my mtb (road bike had a fabric saddle) but I swapped it out anyway. I'm not sure about the main difference but I suspect the small lift at the back made it difficult for me to find an optimal position. It could also be that this was only a problem because the cranks were too long on all my bikes, but now that I'm comfortable I'm not changing anything.

And this. Instability on the saddle would contribute to that pain you referred to. P. S. I read about Robert's offer after posting my original reply. Hope it works out.