Tomik

Shipping from the States has also gone up a lot, and you'll struggle with any warranty claims. I just buy locally now. The Magene pedals are a good alternative to the Assiomas for R11k dual sided.

No problems with the Forerunner broadcasting HR to an Edge, except mine takes a while, like 15 minutes) to give a good reading - seems like it needs a bit of sweat to work accurately (which differs from the poster above) or I wear it too loose. But I still prefer it to the chest-based ones.

There's just a lot more aggression these days, whether you're on a bike, or in a car, or a motorbike (I use all three) you will experience it should you dare to respond in any manner. When on my motorbike, I call out people texting while driving and 9 times out of 10 I get the middle finger thrown back or worse, they try to drive you into oncoming traffic (that was with a 14 year old girl on the back). And they just carry on texting. It's a losing battle. I would ride with a pepper spray if there was a convenient, reliable and small one around. p.s. there's also silver Hyundai Staria in the Noordhoek area that close passes cyclists at speed - he's buzzed me twice but I didn't get his plate - the last time about 15cm space while my buddy was descending Ou Kaapse in the mist at 50kph...that was very nearly the end of him.

Your chain could also just be too long...and the derailleur badly adjusted. Buy a cheap chain checker tool and check for yourself. If chain OK, go to a better mechanic to adjust the derailleur, or watch YouTube videos and do it yourself.

The new Santa Cruz Stigmata is also quite slack and available locally.

A few years ago, Revolution Cycles had spare Boa dials. I recall buying a new one from them and installing it myself. Was quite easy. Try calling them.

Yip, rider slipped on the yellow line on the sharp left bend before the overhang on NH side. Broken hip, but otherwise fine.

To those that said the cyclists are at fault, have you ridden down Chappies? It appears the cyclist on the right is passing the slower cyclist on the left (perfectly legal to do). No-one rides abreast DOWN Chappies on that side as the road is narrow with tight turns, it's just not possible) They do not have to ride far left as that promotes close passing on a narrow road (again, perfectly legal) They are probably going a similar speed to most cars (except the impatient Polo driver) so are not causing anyone inconvenience. The joggers are allowed to be there, so the only person breaking a law is the Polo driver (crossing solid white line when unsafe to do so, and probably well above the speed limit).

I'll be at the handover tomorrow - hope to get some airtime. The message needs to get to the City/DA that resources are better spent doing actual policing of things that matter/save lives. As an example, a very law-abiding mate of mine got a R1500 fine a few days ago for forgetting to buckle his helmet strap while riding his Vespa! Yes, they pulled him over for that. I mean, how absolutely pointless when there's real problems to police.

That derailleur hanger doesn't really look bent from the pictures so I suspect it's the derailleur itself. But get the LBS to check it out anyway. And buy a proper lube while you're there - Q20 should not be used on a chain unless it's an emergency. Your chain and the rest of your drivetrain will last longer with proper lube.

Seat-stays are not designed to absorb side impact, so I wouldn't say these are under-engineered. Sure, it's not ideal for a gravel bike but they're going for a balance between compliance/comfort and strength. This damage appears to be bad luck. I had a friend who lost control at about 10kph and bump into me with his tyre from the side on my BMC road bike. Neither of us fell, bikes didn't fall. But there was very similar damage to my seat stay and I got a new frame.

Assioma Favero DUO for road and gravel. Pricey, but accurate and durable.

VERY noisy. Not quite as loud as a mini compressor in some cars, but loud enough to disturb people within 10m or more. I used one at a restaurant in Italy and had to quickly go around the corner into a doorway. Was super loud. Can't remember the brand but I imagine it was one of the better ones as the rider wasn't one to skimp on cycling stuff. Will be fine on the road, but will easily wake your partner/dog/neighbour.

I had the same problem with the Trek Checkpoint's "flipchip" (they call it something else but it lets you adjust the wheel base). What a stupid solution to a problem that doesn't exist. Just means lots of metal on metal/carbon contact which with all the dust will inevitably creak. I just removed them and left them off the bike. No more creaks. Does not affect axle security at all. The newer Checkpoints do not have them. I wonder why...

132mm is super narrow, for skinny Italians! Get a 143 or even a 155 and I think your problems will be solved. Plenty of deals on BikeHub if you don't want to buy new. On the wear thing, it could be that mud/grit, combined with your pelvic movement, contributed to the wear - I always wear baggies on the MTB. Or get more durable bibs. Assos are great for comfort but not the most durable.

From the images, I strongly suspect a too-high saddle. By moving the saddle back, you're also effectively increasing the height. Drop it 1cm and see how it feels. The only thing that will change with the lockout is the effective angle as the BB to saddle measurement remains unchanged. The saddle might be good, but if it's the wrong width, it is no good. Check underneath the saddle for a width.

Get a new saddle immediately. Stock saddles are usually crap. Looking at the photo, I would go wider, possibly up to a 155mm. Go to a Specialized store and ask them to measure your sit bones and go from there. Or DIY measure using YT vids. Saddles are expensive but some shops may have trial saddles (Specialized did a few years ago). And then lower it 1cm at least. Then look at your knee bend - should be nowhere near straight, more like 30 degrees with your foot at the bottom (rough guide). Position the saddle with a slight downward tilt (or more or less level when sitting on the bike because with Full Suspension, saddle angle changes with sag) - use a free phone app like Precise Level or similar to measure and record what works.

I did an 80km loop around the small mountain to the SE of town, started off heading East (not on the R62) past the wine farms, then around past the Vrolikheid Nature Reserve to the South (not in it). It was probably 60% tar but the roads were not busy and the gravel section was nice and remote. I really enjoyed the ride even though the last 20km back to town were on the MacGregor road into a headwind. Sorry, can't find my activity to link to but it's fairly obvious on Strava's heatmap. Otherwise look at the Gallows route and see if you can do part of that (might be worth driving to MacGregor).

I'm not a technical guy but it sounds like they're not happy being paired to two devices. I only ever use the app for firmware updates and then immediately disconnect them. Perhaps that "line" of communication is still active/open. Perhaps try a factory reset if possible and then only connect to the Wahoo. I've had mine for many years with not a single problem - been left for a month has no impact on the battery (unless of course there is a fault somewhere). Good luck, they're great pedals when they work.

Banks don't use names when doing the transfers. Only account numbers. File a case and contact the bank's fraud department - maybe they will help you, or at least look into his activity.

Yes, great platform, but you still need to be alert. Rather use email alerts on ads instead of wanted ads for high value items. And make sure to have that coffee before engaging!

If you have spare cash, go for it, but it's by no means necessary. You can tell you're getting stronger by riding up a hill and timing it, then comparing it to heart rate to see how the effort compares. Accounting for a head or tail wind of course. I've got power meters on my road and gravel bike but sold the one on the MTB as that was less useful to me.

A bike (anything really) is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it. Sometimes no-one is looking for that particular bike so the price may be irrelevant. Otherwise if someone is interested, they would make an offer. The second hand market appears to have slowed a lot. People with bucks are buying new, and those without are not buying (or are financing through their LBS).

@Christowp what are you looking for? Size, budget? My business partner (not on BikeHub) is looking to sell his hardtail - very lightly used - probably size M, I think it's a Giant or Cannondale, in Welgemoed (Tygervalley/Durbanville). He bought it for c. R20k and will probably offload it for a lot less. DM me and I'll put you in touch.

I guess it depends on where the crack is and how bad it is. And yes, the value of the bike. But saying that, the end value will be diminished by the repair, so one isn't in the same position. I had to fight this exact thing with Santam and RAW. They insisted on repairing my '22 BMC Team Machine SLR1 frame (equivalent to an S-works) which cracked on the chainstay after an impact (another rider rode into me from the side). BMC said no, I said no, RAW/CBR said yes, we fought a bit and eventually we settled on a frame replacement (which I had to source locally and could only find a '18). For me, that is close enough to the same position and I accepted the potential loss to be able to ride this fantastic bike again. I would not have been comfortable with a repaired frame going down Suikers at 70+kph. This process took 6 weeks. I'm no longer with Santam.