Tomik

Guess so. 184cm, 69kg. Wear a M in Assos. Rest of the bib fits really well, but perhaps my legs are skinnier than most.

Had a similar issue with Castelli sizing on their bibs. No way does a M fit an 84 waist as per the size chart - it's way too small, more like a 78 waist. Properly squashes the package. And their Giro Italia tops are too big. So I'm pretty annoyed too with the inconsistent sizing but I just sold all the items in the classified. Sounds like that was the easier route than dealing with them. But to the guys punting Assos, my issue with them is that they've slowly gotten shorter over the years. I have two of their near top range (can't recall model name) and they're like hot pants. So am also looking for alternatives.

As bizarre as it sounds, a well-known bike fitter Steve Hogg has proven that certain plastics affect ones proprioceptive feedback mechanism and can cause imbalances when riding. He specifically noted this affect on lateral hip position of some in-shoe wedges but also sunglasses and other plastic-based devices. He calls it "material challenges". It's something to look into. Here's a link to an article. https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/08/material-challenges-how-to-lessen-your-ability-to-coordinate-your-actions-without-being-aware-of-it/ The key finding is in paragraph 17/18. I can't copy it as it is protected. But it's worth reading the whole article. His website has further reading. As odd as it may sound, he has established protocols to determine this impact and uses it as part of his extensive bike fit process. If you read his blog, you will get a good sense of his experience and methods. I would just leave the thing at home if you have isolated the device as causing discomfort no matter the reason.

Similar story with Spez Tygervalley. Needed a helmet on one occasion, they didn't have my size so said would order and call me back. Still waiting for the call... Same story with MTB shoes - no call-back received. Needless to say, I don't have a Spez helmet or shoes. And am extremely unlikely to buy from a Spez shop in future. So some basic advice to the new shop: Follow up on orders and requests. Sure not all will convert to a sale but if you let a few slide, you will lose customers.

I'd try figure it out myself if you're not able to pay for a proper fit. Sore arms/neck/shoulders suggest too much weight on them, so it's likely that your bars are too low. Can also be that you're too stretched out which would need a shorter stem. Work through it methodically starting with saddle height, then saddle setback to get proper knee flexion, then work towards the front of the bike. Raise the bars if you can first then look into the reach.

No definite date given, but it won't be for a while. There are a lot more dangerously burnt trees to fell before allowing the public in. Deer Park is mostly cleared now.

Exactly. Not sure what benefit a 10-44 will give besides slightly tighter gaps - actually seems like a step backwards. Have a mullet on my new GG - with a 40t up front it's good for 16% gradients with luggage. The suspension fork doesn't appeal to me either...unweight the arms over the rough stuff. The seatpost looks interesting if it really can soak up corrugations but is really ugly. And will probably be R10k locally!

Spot on! I still do smaller events - my favourite was a 20-man 3 day gravel "race" in the Overberg last year - stayed at hotels. Many people can still afford that (and want it, especially in winter!). That event this year will be 50-100 people. Will still be rad. I think these niche events will flourish as people want to ride with mates or like-minded people. But also overnight touring is so easy these days it makes some events redundant. A tiny backpack and a credit card is all one needs really. And some cash for those little dorpies is useful.

What if they didn't have the option to drift into the other lane? My point is that just because many survive the pass doesn't make it a good idea in general. Speeds, even in the slow lane, are usually far higher than many other passes (like Bains or Du Toit's which I have no problem cycling on) and many of the corners are relatively blind corners. But to each their own. Be safe out there.

I rode it once. Also never again. Drove up Sir Lowry's last weekend at 6:45am and thought, hell this is madness on a bike. Beautiful route otherwise.

FWIW, I had a Sunrace 11sp 11-46 cassette working well with a mid-level SRAM chain, 42t chainring and Force derailleur. No unusual noise, shifting was crisp and quick enough. Correct chain length and B-screw adjustment is often under-appreciated. Only "issue" with the Sunrace is it's very heavy. 12sp will likely be more sensitive to the wear as well as the adjustments. My guess is the jumping is related to the chainring. Friend bought a brand new OPEN WI:De that jumped chains and got the chainring swapped out and no problems since.

If you're keen for a multi-day, check this out. https://dirtysouthgravel.co.za/ I did the inaugural one last year. Manageable distances, segment racing (or not at all), great accommodation, good food, rad vibes. Stilbaai to Stanford. I believe there will be a car drop-off service. There's also this, but it's a bit pricey for a one-day on public roads (but no different to Swartberg 100 in that respect) https://racetothesea.co.za/

I did a short MTB trip to Flims in Switzerland a few years ago - we stayed in the Segneshutte (mountain "hut" high up above the village). It was superb, but getting to it was tough - very steep with gear. One thing to say is these huts are very popular so usually need to be booked in advance, which might mess with your plans. Most of them are actually quite luxurious, not the simple huts we're accustomed to in SA. Lift passes can get expensive but are absolutely required in Switzerland. Italy might have more XC/Trail type riding (only been road riding in Dolomites and Garda but saw plenty of trail signage) but Flims was mostly downhill (rented a 160mm bike). Hope this helps a bit.

I've got the Thule Euroway 3 bike. Can be extended to 4. I think that's the limit in general as there's a limit the towball clamp can safely take. The Thule says max 60kg. No problems at all, other then the slightly annoying way the arms work. Tilt feature works very well. Thing weighs 20kg though but I guess they're all in that ballpark.

Not sure if the rack allows it, but looks like it might. No problem doing that if it works better. My saris bones could do that but I never needed to with adult bikes.

Jeez, that setup in the picture looks like a disaster waiting to happen, sorry to say. I think the arms are set at too steep an angle. Try place then more parallel with the ground. And keep the bikes lower by either moving the brackets/straps to attach to the frame below the bar so the smaller bikes effectively hangs below the arms. You'll need extra bungee cord to secure but this will help place all 3 bikes at a similar level and will put far less force on the rack /car boot. Hope this helps. If not, get a tow bar and a platform rack.

So lots of unanswered questions (about insurers) and some misinformation too. It seems everyone's broker gives different advice. Mine did call back (not the assistant this time) to confirm that if insured for all-risks, the insured amount, not new replacement value, is what is important. They will not pro-rata the payment. I guess this is similar to car insurance. I don't expect a brand new car if my 6 year old car is stolen so it is insured for current market value. My broker also confirmed that if I crash, parts will be replaced with new parts. No pro-rata payment either. Less excess of course. Other people on here may disagree, but I have it in writing so am happy. Thanks for all the replies.

Easy. Don't buy the stuff. It's usually fairly obvious who the skelms are. Usually.

Thanks for the reply! But I quite enjoy buying used bikes. In fact, of the 13 bikes I've owned, only my first two - an R800 avalanche and a R1200 wheeler - were new.

Thanks for the replies so far. Funnily, me broker's assistant just got back to me (after a week) saying that the average clause does not apply to all risks insurance (it was above the all-risk section, below the building section. So she said that if stolen, I would get the inured amount less excess. She also said damaged items (in a crash) would be replaced - i.e. full replacement cost paid out (less excess). She said this section below is to manage expectations but if I understood that I would get paid out less than new replacement value, that's OK. So I guess the question now is, if anyone has been insured for second hand value, is that what was paid out?

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me. My insurer, Santam, just renewed my policy but noted the "average clause", in particular stating that the sum insured must represent full replacement value of the assets in accordance with the basis of valuation applicable. Now, here's the rub. I bought my BMC used (1 year old) for R124000 but the replacement value for a new one is R200000. I specifically told my broker that I bought the bicycle used for R124000 (and provided an invoice) and insured it for that amount. In the event of a total loss (i.e. theft), I expect to be paid out R124000 less the excess, as I will purchase another used bicycle for the same amount. But the average clause implies that I am under-insured. What is the general experience here? Do you insure for the price paid, or the new replacement value? Has anyone been paid out less than the insured amount due to this "average clause"? Thanks in advance.

If you want to ride the route, just do a 7 day Fulgaz trial. I've ridden my local Waterfront to Chappies route a few times and it is actually quite fun as you know the hills/landmarks so it feels familiar and can be good training. Lots of excellent routes on Fulgaz/Rouvy if you don't need the 'company' of other riders.

On the roof mounted racks, a mate has destroyed 2 s-works frames by driving into his garage... That's why I've got the tow bar!

The saris or Thule should fit under the lip no problem. Shouldn't damage the paint, but I would put duct tape on in case. Take the car to a Thule fitment shop to check. It's free. Tow bar obviously superior, but if it didn't work on your car, the rear mounted racks are fine.

You shouldn't twist your ankle when unclipping with any shoes. It should be a natural movement. Check the angle of your cleats (affects how twisted your foot needs to be to release) as well as the release tension on the pedal. My Look MTB pedals were initially a pain to unclip from compared to my cheap Shimano ones, but after sorting the above, all is well. Also, spray silicone spray on the cleat and pedal interface - sometimes the metal/metal friction causes them to stick a bit.