Tomik

Agree 100%. Best gravel tyres I've used - had the 40s. Swapped to WTB Riddler 45s for more width but moving back when they wear out as I could not feel any advantage to the supposedly wider tyre.

Been using one on my SRAM AXS-equipped gravel bike (Trek Checkpoint SL6) for over a year and some 3000km. Have ridden in terrible conditions and going strong.

I've got the Trek Checkpoint SL6 with 12sp Sram AXS. Awesome versatile bike which I use for gravel races and bike packing trips. Had to use it as a road bike for 7 weeks while waiting for a new BMC frame. With road wheels and tires on, the only disadvantage was the 1x gearing. I mostly kept up with my group but they got away on the downhill from Llandudno to Camps Bay as I topped out around 55kph with a 42-10. The gaps/jumps between gears was manageable but not ideal if you like spinning as you sometimes find yourself needing an in between gear. The frame is very similar to a road bike, just more comfy and slightly more upright. The wider bars didn't help the aero effect either but I'm not very aero myself.

+1 on the ass-saver. Does the job cleanly. 😉

The broken cleat has probably increased the cant/tilt of your leg by about 1mm, if not more. This change in angle of your foot is the cause of your knee pain. You already have two wedges so the angle with a fixed cleat is quite extreme already. I also run two wedges but get discomfort with 3 If you can't get a new cleat today, remove the wedges (or at least one) for now.

Not to throw a spanner in the works, but at that price range I would also look at lightly used gravel bikes like this one https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/gravel-and-cyclocross-bikes/590489/trek-checkpoint-sl6 Not sure your size but you'll get a better groupset and usually a lighter bike overall with better wheels for your R44k. I would also look at the Trek Checkpoint. It's a superbly versatile bike. I have the SL7 and have been bike-packing and it did road duty for 6 weeks when my BMC broke.

The Siablo can only fit 42c tyres - that would be a deal breaker for me but roads in WC are rougher than in Gauteng I believe. I run 45c and my friend on his Revolt runs 47c tyres for extra volume and comfort. I'd go Giant.

If you're in JHB, you will probably want to 2x gearing on the Giant. I think the Giant may be able to take larger tyres.

Lots of people commute in the Bellville area - not many (any?) bike lanes but usually wide shoulders, depending on your route. Check out Strava's heat map to see the most popular routes. Riding from Bellville to Stellenbosch is possible and reasonably safe but Bottelary Rd is a bit of a gamble these days, especially early morning when the drunks are out. I would drive to Stellenbosch and ride from there. But there are plenty of groups that ride along Bottelary and I have too on a few occasions.

That will work too. The grinding part was messy on the brake pad but it does the job. If I was paying, I'd want an as-original look as possible.

With the price of new shoes these days, it's not a bad time for this service.

Add in heel rubber replacement and you should get many customers. The small rubber soles on the heel always wear faster on one side and sometimes fall off. I replaced one on my Catlike road shoes with a modified brake pad, but am sure you can find a more elegant solution if the stock ones are no longer available. I had a previous pair done by a shoe repair company but they did a horrible job.

These get good reviews... https://bikehub.co.za/classifieds/item/saddles/562601/farr-saddle

Get a decent saddle in 155 width. Don't worry about the length or the "lip" at the back. Spez Phenom is good and works for most people. You should find a used one for around a grand. If you want new, I'd look at the Giant/Pro saddles.

If it's an older frame, try the previous agent, Herman sales@abloc.co.za

+1 for Assioma's. Excellent pedals - transferable to any bike means you never lose your money.

Looks like Baradine. https://shovacycles.co.za/product/baradine-160mm-brake-rotor/

I agree that platform racks are the best especially if you'll be using it often. The hang on racks become a hassle over time but are fine for occasional use. I used a Saris Bones 3 on my Golf - no issues. Am sure it would work on a Polo. I would also look at the suction racks - SeaSucker, Treefrog and RockBros available locally. The only "issue" is some of the suction racks are only suitable for QR so a thru-axle adaptor is needed. The Treefrog adaptor was R850 which adds to the already pricey rack. But they work well on cars that can't take normal racks and are low enough for you to put your bike on the roof easily.

I had a very loud creak that I was convinced was from the BB or chainrings/bolts. Turns out is was the rear dropout. Trek has these weird adjustable dropouts. They were tight but over time dust etc. can cause it to creak/click with any load. It was actually the "alignment bolts" that were dry and creaking. On my MTB, a clicking I thought was in the derailleur (which I replaced) was actually a cracked hub (SRAM Roam wheelset) which was impossible to see/feel but my LBS knew all about it. Hope this helps.

I'd lean towards a 140mm trail bike like a Pyga Stage Max or similar. They are really good for XC too, but obviously not as light. I find the longer travel confidence inspiring. Broke my neck on my 120mm bike a few years ago so maybe I'm a bit biased. Those trails are rough but awesome so get the best components, especially wheels and suspension you can afford. And at least 2.4" tyres. Enjoy shopping!

For what it's worth, I have XX1 AXS on my gravel bike that has seen plenty of mud and sand and been fully submerged while cycling through a wetland after heavy rain. I have not adjusted it or lubed it or anything in over 3000km (I probably should, but it works perfectly). Not sure if the bearings in the cage are different to the GX but mine are still rolling smoothly.

Unfortunately that's what RAW thought too, but turns out they had/have the SLR frameset, which is not the same as the SLR01. Kind of like a Spez vs. S-works story but with more confusing naming.

I'm insured directly through a large brokerage, not a group scheme. My premiums are R6k a month. They screwed me around for 6 weeks to save R30k in the end. That's 5 months of premiums. That is not smart business. Had it been an old bike, with no warranty I would have been satisfied with a repair. But this was a newish, premium bike. BTW, as far as I know there are no repairers that are authorized by the manufacturers to repair carbon frames. While I don't doubt a repair would be safe, that's not the point. Santam couldn't get their heads around this.

Hi all. Thanks for your comments. I thought I would let you all know what transpired and the lessons learnt that may help somebody. The insurer was Santam with whom I insure my cars, house and household contents. I had a broker but am not so sure it added value. The bike (BMC Team Machine SLR01 with Dura-Ace di2) was insured for R125000 (probably the first mistake). Value new is c. R180000. The original assessment by Carbon Bicycle Repairs in Durbanville was to repair the frame but as that voids the warranty (thankfully BMC warranty extends to 2nd owner) I refused this offer, After getting Riders at Work involved (they recommended a replacement frameset on warranty grounds), Santam eventually agreed to replace the frame. They refused to pay the R90k that an equivalent frame would have cost (remember at that point to my knowledge there were no exact replacement frames available). RAW mistakenly sourced an SLR frame (value R36999) and Santam wanted to settle for R40k, which I again declined as it is the lower tier frameset. Thanks to information received on this thread, I sourced an exact replacement frameset from Abloc (previous agents I think) which is being couriered to my local bike shop as we speak. Final settlement value is c. R60k (frameset was on sale, plus rebuild and courier costs). This whole process has taken 6 weeks with lots of back-and-forth and frustration, all so Santam could save R30k. Lessons learnt: Check your policy and the insurers protocols (repair vs. replace) BEFORE you need to claim and get it in writing if possible. My broker did not explain any of this to me and the policy schedule is not specific either. Insure your bike for new replacement value, not the price you paid 2nd hand (or current "value"). Again, my broker did not give me advice on this. I spoke to Cyclesure and this is what they insist on. I believe it will give you a better bargaining position with all insurers. Premiums will be higher but this is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. If you buy used, try get the original invoice from the seller. Santam insisted on this but eventually gave in. They want to be able to verify the value of the bike as they think all their clients are trying to rip them off. I'll be switching my bicycle insurance to Cyclesure as I do not want to go through this frustration again. Hope this helps somebody.

I saw two M mountain bikes under R10k in the classifieds. A Scott and another one I can't recall (was late last night). If you go the new route, maybe best to get something a bit better than a makro bike as that will fall apart from the mileage. Maybe a 1x commuter bike will be more suited to his distances - less things to break/maintain. Not sure if Rook's are still available? I'm happy to contribute R1000 towards a better bike. DM me with bank details once you've decided.