Tomik

Can't help with the cause but that's how the underside of my sister's Polo looked thanks to being parked on Beach Rd Moullie Point all day and night. Even in a garage, bikes/cars are not safe from the corrosive effects of salty, moist air.

That does look like a good deal - will just need to upgrade the wheels at some point (if you want carbon). As reference, I recently sold a 2018 Cervelo R3 (rim) with Ultegra (not DI2) and carbon wheels for R25k. Thought that was a good deal too. That said, having just bought a DI2-equipped bike, I would say aim for that as it is really good!

The Assioma Duo is $800. Got mine a few years ago for about R10k I think. They have been flawless since - haven't even needed a service. For gravel, a crank-based meter works well enough. I bought a $300 Sigeyi AXO for SRAM Force 1 crank over a year ago and it too has been perfect on my GG. The Garmin units look good, but are not priced competitively.

If it's your shin area, it has nothing to do with ITB. Those stretches won't hurt, but they won't help that specific issue. Likely culprit is cleats too far forward making your shin muscle overwork to stabilise your foot. Collapsing arch could exacerbate the issue. Move your cleats back on the shoe, get a supportive insole (the Spez ones are OK) and make sure you're not pedaling with more pressure on the outside of your foot (suggesting too high a saddle). Good luck.

Good spot for a tool bottle. Not so good for a water bottle.

There is no duty on components so you just pay vat. And then the clearing fee through DHL etc. It is still worth ordering components from overseas but you can't get shimano or Sram...

I'm going to throw a spanner in the works...I rode a 2018 Cervelo R3 56 with a 90mm stem. Handled perfectly. But that's probably down to the Cervelo being an amazing bike. It was fine with an 80mm stem too. I'm 1.85cm btw, but with a shorter inseam of 83cm. Loved the shorter reach and slightly taller stack and the compliance of the frame. Not convinced a TCR is an upgrade unless your R3 is old/outdated. I just switched to a BMC TeamMachine SLR01...long and low...and it's also a 56 but a completely different ride (with a 120mm stem until the 100mm arrives). Can't say it rides better than the Cervelo...but the Dura-ace Di2 and disc brakes sure are nice. If I were to go Giant, it would be a M/L - geo closer to the Cervelo. (assuming the Cervelo worked well for you).

I'd take this offer and charge the rest to school fees. Sucks being in SA where some agents don't stand behind their product (or drop products willy-nilly leaving the consumer with no recourse).

Or a decent scooter! Lol

Donation made from FNB - will take a few days to clear. Good work, all.

East City Cycles in town had last week. Probably still have. Saw at Olympic too but that was a while ago.

Am in the same boat - tried to buy a bike on my credit card last week. FYI SARS blocks payments bigger than R50k on credit cards. Luckily though as the website that showed stock available didn't actually have stock. My conclusion is it is not worth buying a bike overseas unless you physically go fetch it. Taxes and shipping (approx. 40%) will be far more than the cost of a flight. But good luck getting a bike there too - apparently Cervelo has sold all their 2021 Europe stock already. I think there are bikes in the States, but it's a mission going there. Local agents are also struggling. I tried to order a Factor o2 VAM - earliest indication is October in SA. And no Dura-ace Di2 groupsets available. First world problems, I know, but frustrating nonetheless.

I used a Saris Bones 3 on my Boxster for a few years and it took my MTB to Piket-bo-Berg as well as other bikes to other races with no damage. I made sure to stick duct tape on the body under the straps though. Highly recommend doing that - get duct tape to match the car so it's less noticeable if you care about those things. But I did make sure my next car had a towbar (retractable, nogal) and now enjoy a Thule platform rack far more.

All of the above, plus sent to Mozambique!

You need to select the trainer as "controllable" on the Zwift pairing screen. In that block, you will see two Suito's - a bluetooth and an FEC/Ant. You need to select the FEC/Ant version of the trainer to give Zwift control of it.

No, i don't, cause I'm too lazy to take the bike to a shop. I do realise that it might come back to bite me though. Years ago, it was cheap enough replacing a fork. These days, not so much. Servicing a fork is quite expensive, but with the price of forks now, probably worth it. Also depends on how hard you ride, what the conditions are like etc.

Also don't think having Netflix on is optimal. Focus on the riding (racing in Zwift helps) and it might be less boring than sitting on a saddle watching TV.

I found doing nice routes helped for those "fun rides". Fulgaz had the best selection and best interface in my opinion. So I could do a 2.5 hour 80-odd km ride from Sydney to Woolongong without getting bored (during lockdown). Now, the training plans kinda keep me motivated most of the time as I get my long rides in outdoors. I found about 10 workouts that I like (on Zwift) and saved those as custom workouts - each serve a specific purpose. That said, with the weather getting better, I do find it much harder to train on the IDT. In fact, haven't done so in a few weeks. No real goal to train towards at the moment doesn't help.

Why do you okes feel it's necessary to argue about what tyres are more stable? That is completely irrelevant to the post. But if you really want to test your theories, ask a friend to push you from the side (which a hard slap could do) while riding each and see for yourself on which bike you stay upright on.

Thank you, thank you and thank you again!! You just solved a problem that has been annoying me for months. I also re-lubed the pivots, stripped the hub, tried a new cassette, even lubed the spoke nipples trying to get rid of this creak. Now it's gone. In my case, it was a SRAM GX 11sp derailleur. Just needed a quick spray of DWF on the top pivot.

It's mostly free flowing with a few technical sections, tough rocky lines. Two way trail shared with hikers, but you can't go too fast anyway or you'll die. Chunky tyres are useful. Pats Track is the trail from Green Point to top of Signal Hill by the Kramat. I prefer going up Pats Track from Springbok Rd, then you can go around Lions Head (Clifton side) on the other trail (towards Top Rd). Then go back up Signal Hill Rd and do Belgian Waffle down into town.

The Wahoo Snap is a wheel on trainer so not ideal for MTB if you're interested in power as tyre pressure will have a huge impact on resistance and hence power readings. I would look into a direct drive trainer that works with thru-axles (probably most of them by now) assuming your bikes are thru-axles. If your bikes are both 11sp, all you need is a cassette to match - SRAM/Shimano won't matter. An 11sp/12sp combo will make direct drive a bit annoying as you will have to change the cassette every time. I have an Elite Direto that takes my 11sp Shimano road bike, 11sp gravel bike (SRAM Force) and 11sp MTB (SRAM GX) without changing the cassette on the trainer or making any other adjustments (except for the thru-axle adaptor which takes less than a minute to swap). I stick to the road cassette. Shifting is 100% fine on all bikes.

Get the highest volume tyres you can find (that fit). Width is secondary to that for comfort, in my opinion. I found the Panaracer Gravel King 38's to be quite low volume which didn't suit me. Found WTB Raddlers 40c were a good balance (but had to import them from Germany). It's like the GK in teh middle but has nice lugs on the side for cornering grip. Just rode a new event - The Dirty South - in the overberg and the 40c rear tyre was perfect in the mud, rocks and also on the faster sections (hit 70kph on one downhill before Bredasdorp). I ran a higher volume WTB Resolute 42c on the front (it blows up to 44) so check what the max is for both front and rear. Usually the front can go a bit wider/bigger volume than the rear.

Check out Onza Ibex 2.4 up front, Onza Canis 2.25 in the rear. I think evobikes stocks them. Very robust and not too heavy.

For what it's worth, I built up a 56cm Cervelo R3 to 7.3kg with power meter pedals for fairly cheap. Don't have exact figures but under R50k. The pedals were R10k or so... Got the frame new for R17k (insurance replacement) and used parts off my Swift U-vox mostly. Wheels are Yoeleo 50mm carbons which I paid R8000 for a few years ago but would be about R15k now unfortunately. Rest is Shimano Ultegra 6800 with alu stem and bars. Carbon seatpost. My point is: start with the frame you want. This should be based on geometry and ride quality. The Cervelo is in my opinion far better than the Swift - just more responsive and compliant. And the geometry (esp. reach and stack) suits me better. Otherwise as others have mentioned, buy a complete bike and add a power meter later. Plenty of Stages etc. on bikehub...