Johan Bornman

Aag Bangle, dont stress. You've confused 12 O'clock with 9 O'clock and now you think you're late. It is still early. You have lots of time to read the finer detail of my explanation. One day I'll explain it to you.

No, they haven't taken a knock. They're neither bent nor worn. The reason they're shorter is 'cause they're designed and manufacturered that way. They are the shifting teeth. It is a feature, not a failure. Buy don't stress, lots of rookies make this same mistake.

I'll deal with the last paragraph only since the first two is you say, they say. Botht he Ksyrium Elite and Aksium use steel spokes. However, the Aksium uses standard straigh-pull spokes with nipples that screw on from the outside of the wheel. The KEs on the other hand, use proprietary spokes where the nipples are permanentlhy attached to the spoke and they screw into the rim. It is thus impossible to use Aksium spokes on KE wheels. My guess is that you have KE spokes in there but the wheel is undertensioned, hence the nipples that protrude a bit further. But, that's just a guess. Show us a photo and give me the note of the spoke when plucked in HZ and I'll tell you.

Although it is best practice to oil the sponge rings when you install the fork after a service, they're supposed to be self-oiling after that. Oil is supposed to splash up from the insides of the fork and keep the foam ring wet. If oil levels are too low, it won't reach, I suppose. It is a good idea to invert the bike from time to time to wet the rings. However, attepting to lubricate from the top is futile and in fact, usually counterproductive. The oil that you use could affect the seals. I've seen on occasion where the seals rub off onto the stanchions coating them with black rubber. But, I've never been able to identify what causes it, although I suspect some WD-40 or Q-20 or such. Customes swear blind that it is not that, so I don't know.

Thanks. I can't imagine what it is. Usually when the rubber disintegrates (from Q20 and other lubricants applied externally), it rubs off as pure black.

What does the dirt look like? Is it tenacious black stuff that sticks to the stanchions? If so, then there is a problem with the oil seal's rubber compound. I've seen this a few time, to the extent that it sometimes sticks so badly to the stanchions that it rips the seal right out.

What does the dirt look like? Is it tenacious black stuff that sticks to the stanchions? If so, then there is a problem with the oil seal's rubber compound. I've seen this a few time, to the extent that it sometimes sticks so badly to the stanchions that it rips the seal right out.

That carbon handlebar almost certainly broke because of installation error or abuse. Installation error: Torqued too tight. Abuse: The brake lever was forceably moved around the bar and nicked the bar, causing a stress riser. I do quite a few damage reports for insurance companies and accident lawyers and often the truth and the story presented are poles apart. It would be interesting to examine the brakes, bar and crank.

That carbon handlebar almost certainly broke because of installation error or abuse. Installation error: Torqued too tight. Abuse: The brake lever was forceably moved around the bar and nicked the bar, causing a stress riser. I do quite a few damage reports for insurance companies and accident lawyers and often the truth and the story presented are poles apart. It would be interesting to examine the brakes, bar and crank.

Hat off to you if you can see o.5% chain elongation. Your advice is a disservice to the OP and others. Don't guesd, people are asking questions that require accurate answers or silence.

I build a set for a customer that weighed 670 front and 785 rear. The components were Crest, Sapim Laser and Rotaz (American Classic knock-offs) hubs. I thought they were far too flimsy for the real world but apparently they're still in use. The lost weight has to come off somewhere and taking meat off the already light Crest is impossible. Lighter spokes cannot be hand for love or money, so that leaves the hub. What would you like to leave off?

May I suggest you guys look at the pinned article on the Great Cassette debate (or such) with the PDF attachment: Everything You need to Know about Bicycle Chains. Here you will learn that. 1) All chains are equally durable. They're made from the same steel. 2) A chain that's still within spec will not damage a cassette that's only worked on another bike with a chain that's also still in spec. In other words, swap freely but keep an eye on your chain and make sure it is not worn beyond spec.

Ek twyfel of enigeen alby fietse so goed ken dat hulle jou 'n eerlilke antwoord kan gee. Die probleemparte is die volgende: 1) BB - English thread or Italian thread. As dit 'n cartridge (square taper of Octalink of ISIS) BB is moet die wydte ook ooreenstem - 109mm of 113mm of 118mm. 2) Seatpost - verskillende groottes 3) Fork steerer - 1 1/8e duim of 1 1/4 duim ens. 4) Head tube. 'n Groter fiets sal nie werk met 'n fiets wat se vurk te kort gesny is nie. 5) Brake adapters - ISO, post-mount ens. 6) Quick releases - through axle, 9mm QR, ens. Tik maar een vir een af en kom by 'n gevolgtrekking wat jou sal vertel of dit die moeite en geld werd is of nie.

I'll treat the first question as a rhetoric one. Bikes, cars, motorbikes, skiers, cyclists and runners all know the effect a side-wind has on forward travel. It pushes you over into to the direction of wind travel. We counter that force by steering a bit into the wind. In cars, it is noticeable by the less-than-straight angle of the steering wheel. On motorbikes and bicycles, it is noticeable by our lean angle into the wond. We've all experienced that and it is nothing new. What I don't think anyone (other than you), experience with sidewinds is an oscillating force of the type you imagine. Only in yur imagination is this side-force a pulsating one at a frequency that interacts with the steering system on a vehicle. For your scenario to be plausible the wind has to blow in pulses at a frequency in the region of 5Hz. Bloody funny wind that. Further, I don't understand what a short or long-wheelbase bike has to do with this. Your first hypothesis...no, make that a theory since you already proved it in your mind, was that the static [sIC] rolling resistance cause the wheelbase to shorten and through a process that can only be explained once you're master 12 theories and a large base of mathematics, causes a speed wobble. Lastly, the wheelbase of a realitic bike has jsut about nothing to do with steering response (what you call twitchy). The difference in feeling is mostly thanks to the difference in trail at the fork. I say realistic bike because once the wheelbase becomes extraordinarily long, it will have an effect, but in the type of wheelbases we see on shop bikes, ziltch. If you want to test that, I'll gladly make available two bikes of identical geometry, identical other than the one's extraordinary long chainstays - far in excess of any bike on the market. I'm not holding my breath for you conducting such a test.

Here we go again.... We've been through this and your last theory was friction - static, I think, that caused the wheelbase to shorten. https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/13403-speed-wobble/page__hl__harmonic__st__20 How do you foresee a sidewind inducing a speed wobble?

Nonense.

I'll be there.

Life's too short to sukkel like that. E-mail me and I'll supply you with everything, including crush washers.

The problem often lies not with the oil itself, but the way it is applied. Bike Magazine (never read those things, they're stoopid) advise as follows: 1)Liberally apply lubricant to chain covering all sides. 2) Spin the crank a couple of times. 3) Wipe off the excess using a clean, lint-free organic-material rag. The right procedure should read: 1) Apply 1/2 a drop to each second roller on the chain. 2) Go ride. How does one apply half a drop? You truncate the drop by holding the applicator nozzle against the chain and then allowing gravity and capillary action to suck the fluid out. There is no need to get oil on the sideplates and no need to oil every link. A couple of revolutions of the crank and the oil will be distributed evenly, inside the chain where it matters. Have a look at the pinned thread - the great cassette debate something or other. I attached a document there that explains it all. Although I haven't tried this Motorex stuff, I have seen what a mess ChainL makes and it is totally crazy to create an oil with so much added tackifier that you want to throw the drivetrain away comes washday.

I've had one person ask me to present a fork service workshop this weekend and then another asked me if I could service his fork over the weekend when he's in Jhb. I convinced him to come and do it himself. Now we need three or four more DIYers to come and learn to do suspension forks. Thus, this Saturday from 10:00 through to 14:00 I'm presenting a fork service workshop at the Yellow Saddle studios near Northcliff. The cost is R550 per person/fork and includes notes, data, instruction, cleaning up, oil and cleaning consumables. It excludes fork seals and missing bits of hardware. The objective of this workshop is to learn how to service one particular fork - yours. Learning how to do them all is outside the scope of this workshop. We start at 10:00 sharp. You bring your (clean) fork, wear some old clothes and promise the family you'll be home mid-afternoon at the lastest. I'll take three people. First come first serve. For this one, Rock Shox and Fox only. As an added bonus I'll show you how to perform an air sleeve service on your Fox RP-series shock. No PMs, telepathic messages or faxes. E-mail me. johanatyellowsaddledotceeodotzeda.

I suspect that most of them upgrade the entire wheel, not just the rim. However, the rim is problematic with tubeless valves. The inside profile and large valve hole makes it impossible to get a reliable seal using Stans or similar valves. For this reason alone I'll fit other rims. The hubs and spokes are fine though. The front hub is actually rather nice.

Feel is of course subjective and highly personal. I can't make a judgement there. My approach is more from the maintenance and longevity side of things. Avid has a very poor record in that regard and in any repair shop you'll find that Avid brakes are a headache. Shimano, as close to perfect as can be. They bleed easy, they don't have fragile spings as pad retainers, they have far, far less problems with sticky pistons and never require a rebuild. The lever bushings on Avid turn sloppy after just a year of use. I'm yet to come accross a sloppy XT lever. Also, the same brake set evaluted with metal and resin pads will feel very different. It won't be productive to compare one type with resin to another with metal pads. Its horses for courses. Although most people don't bleed their own brakes, I still think the oil in Shimano and Magura brakes is an excellent idea. It keeps things lubricated without the squeaking associated with older DOT fluid brakes.

One possible cause is that they are Avid Juicy brakes. Other causes range from no pads in the caliper, to no fluid in the system to a lever that doesn't engage the master cyclinder to an ambiguous description of the problem. For instance, why would you want to lean on the front wheel in order to test the rear brake?

Maybe I have an ass up my arse, I've never looked. But that's another issue altogether. However, earning a pathetic little salary in your dull grey little 9-5 job doesn't give you a right to steal intellectual property and profit from it. Your argument is totally flawed and mulling on such drivel and post-rationalising your theft is what keeps you in your shitty job. Ethics should be taught at school and varsity, but if you're already struggling to pass woodwork and English, I suppose the extra burden of basic ethics will be too much.

You can't retract a rant, I'm sure it is in the rules somewhere. In order to lay a charge against those making, distributing or selling goods, you need to prove that you are the owner of the IP behind the stuff. In other words, I cannot now go and lay a charge against those okes selling fake CDs next to the road. The charge must be laid by whoever owns the rights to the movie, music, etc. Even in the case where the owner of the IP may have a subsidiary in South Africa, that entity isn't automatically the owner of the IP and special ceding and whatnott has to happen. However, nothing stops you from sending a cease and desist letter. It is the legal equivalent of "fokkof and die". You can also demand that they hand over all of the stuff to you for destruction. You could even just get them to hand it over if you promise not to take it furhter. I have used this quite successfully on two occasions. It usually scares the hell out of the perpretrators and they just comply without bothering to check your bona fides properly. Get a large sherrif to do the handing over of the letter.