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Johan Bornman

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Everything posted by Johan Bornman

  1. Bliksem! I must buy a Saracen bike, it's RD hanger is only R450!
  2. I learn something new every day. Now, if I can get my customers to only ride those three popular bikes, I can do away with my hanger collection.
  3. I press new steerers into Marzocchi forks all the time. From what I can see, the Rox ones are exactly the same. Looks like they came from the same factory almost. If you can source a Rox one I'll press it in for you, otherwise, lets see if the Marzocchi one fits. Unfortunately I only have steel ones in stock at present. What you could do is poll here for a scrapped Rox part - steerer/crown/stanchion assemblies are routinely replaced - and we can put that in for you. I have no idea of the local Rox agent can get you one, ask your bike shop to check.
  4. I am yet to come across a hanger that is common across different bikes. Does anyone ahve any examples of such compatible hangers? Obviously some of the factory catalogue frames which are sold under various brand names will be an exception, but the rest are pretty unique. Even within brands, the different models often have different hangers. The worst criminals here has to be Specialized. Please enlighten me.
  5. Reaction time is your enemy in those situations, not more braking force. Even if you could stop a bit quicker, considering the distances you have to stop in (inches), even a perfect brake that can stop you in one second, won't help if your reaction time is one tenth of a second, which it is for a trained athlete waiting for the gun. You are suggesting that disc brakes on RBs will stop so quickly that tyres will shred? Maybe it is a figure of speech but certainly not reality. The limiting factor on a road bike is overturning momentum, not adhesion. You have unlimited adhesion on a road bike or motorbike, since the bike will overturn before it will skid, no matter how good the brakes. You cannot skid the front wheel on a road bike. If you do't believe me, try it. Disc brakes may well come to road bikes but not for the reasons you suggest.
  6. I recently scrapped an otherwise perfectly good Reba fork due to a broken-off steerer. It doesn't have V-brake mounts. If you want, I'll swap it out for you. It is black, a bit scuffed, but otherwise perfect. Contact me off-line, not via PM please.
  7. Shimano's XTR and XT wheels are flops. Massive flops. The new-style hubs with oversize aluminium axles don't seal well and it is almost impossible to ride as a MTB should ride, without picking up bearing damage due to water and dirt intrusion.
  8. That should quell that old cliche of bullet-proof this and that, for once and all.
  9. Edman said it all. As for Magnesium? I doubt there was ever a pure (or high content in anyway) magnesium frame. It was most likely an aluminium alloy with some magnesium in it. Magnesium is more suitable to castings and forgings than drawn tubes. American Classic once marketed a magnesium rim. It was aluminium with some Mg in the mix. I think your example frame would be the same. Magnesium and Scandium is wildely misrepresented in most components. It is usually mostly aluminium with tiny bits of mag and scandium in the alloy. Other stuff found in common aluminium alloys is vanadium and zinc, but none of those sound as sexy as scandium and hence, are not mentioned.
  10. I had a similar problem once. Someone caught me washing a baby by holding it by its ears and swinging it back and forth through the water. They put up a terrible fuss and never allowed me to get my side of the story in. That water was so bloody hot I'd have burnt my hands if I held the baby like they showed me.
  11. A 27.2mm seatpost isn't a good idea on a moutain bike. Especially if it has a sloping top tube and hence long seatpost. It just isn't stiff enough. Rather get the real McCoy. 27.2 should really just be used on road bikes.
  12. Carbon in a bicycle application is lighter than titanium and since people nowadays shop with a scale, manufacturers want to offer a product that competes gram-wise, yet still offer the allure of titanium. Sructurally I don't think such a bike is any better or worse than a full-ti bike. The joints where carbon meets ti introduce their own problems. Having said that, one of the most beautiful bikes I ever saw was a Merlin made from ti lugs and carbon tubes.
  13. I guess Ti is an inappropriate material for watch casings then. ;-) I can't agree more with you signature.
  14. Confused? That's 'cause you're shopping in a (virtual) boutique for poofter wheels. Get custom-built wheels. Build them with Hope hubs - any colour under the sun - (except green and violet), black SAPIM Laser spokes and a black Macix CXP-33 rim. These wheels are in for the long haul and when having to replace things on it, it isn't a part number from an obscure supplier, it is standard stuff anyone can supply and fit. You'll save money too.
  15. This is not funny! I had my garden engineer polish my car once. I was busy inside and I didn't pay attention when he asked for matches. I caught him lighting matches on the bonnet. Luckily he didn't put two and two together and poured some petrol on first.
  16. Hmmmmm. Are you sure it wasn't you in that car? Now, don't lie. You-know-who was watching!
  17. Keep it civil. Call me Johan. Speak to me in the first person. Bolts: Just about all the groupset manufacturers have a high-end gruppo where some of the bolts are made from titanium. You'll notice that not all of them can safely be replaced with ti, hence the half-steel, half-ti mix. Bolts such as disc bolts, stem bolts and seatpost bolts cannot be safely substituted for ti bolts. This leaves very little else to bother with and the real weight saving there is negligible. Or, if you choose to not negate the saving, then I'll argue that the cost/weight savings ratio is ridiculously high. Ti as a frame material: To the untrained eye, titanium looks a lot like alu. In fact, alu can be alloyed to look just like titanium, not to mention that it can be anodised to look like ti too. Thus on the looks side, I don't see the point. It doesn't offer any visual advantage. I've already dealt with the disadvantages of working with ti as well as its reputation as a durable frame material. We could differ on that, this is my perspective. Modern aluminium frames from the large manufacturers are now shaped like yesterday's carbon frames. Organic lines, flows, multi-faceted tubes etc, all thanks to hydroforming. No-one is doing cost-effective ti hydroforming along the lines of alu frames quite yet. The look of new alu has changed and is sophisticated. With ti you're still stuck with yesterday's look of round tubes with limited shaping. Call it classic or retro if you want, but I do think the option is an advantage. Here carbon has the ultimate advantage. It can be shaped at will. Weight of the frame. For two frames with the same stiffness and fatigue strength, you score with aluminium. Any frame of any design can be made lighter, stiffer and more durable in aluminium. I just don't see why anyone would choose ti? On paper it doesn't score. Emotionally pulls the heartstrings, but as I pointed out in my first post, it is all about the perception that this stuff is unobtanium and exotic. If you want to go exotic, make the frame from Boron. Just never machine it afterwards or you'll poison yourself and your family. So, I've taken the looks out of the equasion, added cost (have I mentioned that the stuff is expensive?), added weight, cast doubt on its durability, pointed out its limitations in shaping options, put the frame on a scale, pointed out the emotional aspect and I can't help wonder what's left? Why bother?
  18. How does the touchy gadgety part work? I've never seen one of these.
  19. Hmmmm. Underlying cracks as in existing cracks or underlying cracks such as latent crack paths? I doubt this frame had a crack in when it left the factory. It merely had the right metallic structure and right shape for the crack to propagate along a pre-determined path. In other words, these cracks develop as the bike is used.
  20. Thanks Christie. I may have added that it is an appropriate material where large, lightweight forging are required, such as large housings of jet engines (high temp apps as Christie says) or jet liner landing gear. The only other material strong enough here is steel, but for that size, you can save a couple of tons by using titanium. It pays for itself eventuallu since the aircraft pays you back for weight saved by reducing fuel consumption. Commercial liners do many hundreds of thousands of take-offs and landings, all paying back big-time in fuel bills over the years.
  21. Titanium has about half the density of steel and double the density of aluminium. Also, it has half the strength of steel and double the strength of aluminium. Most people think it is strong, harder, tougher etc etc than steel. It is not. It is stronger, harder, tougher than aluminium. Yes. Stay with me. Titanium work-hardens wildly. In other words, as you manufacture (work) it, be it drilling, milling, bending or extruding, it becomes harder. This makes it more difficult (read expensive) to manufacture than either steel or aluminium. In order to make a very light strong titanium frame, you have to extrude it paper-thin into big tubes (think Cannondale). This is very, very difficult. Hence, they extrude it into thicker, smaller-diameter tubes as in classic Litespeed. This automatically makes the frame heavier than an equally-strong aluminium one. Aluminium is easy to extrude into paper thin tubes without losing strength or maleability. That's just on the raw tube manufacturing side. Now for the mining/sourcing side: Titanium oxide is abundant right here on earth. It is a white powder readily surface-mined. The problem comes in driving the oxygen off the powder so that the metal remains. This requires a huge amount of energy, many times that required to obtain steel or even aluminium. This makes it expensive and gives it in modern parlance, a high carbon footprint. Coming back to manufacuturing. This process requires welding, bending, milling, mitering and forming. All if which is easy with aluminium, difficult with titanium. Difficult and expensive. Further, the welding actually weakens the titanium structure and to counter this, it requires precise heat-treatment. Alu also requires heat treatment but the process is well understood commercially, and quite successful. On titanium it is exactly the opposite, hence all the cracking we see on ti frames. Titanium is not all negative. It has high PR value. It was after all glorified as the one metal that became available after the cold war. During the cold war all ti was locked up in missile hulls and jealous gaurding of sources and methods. After the cold war Ronald Reagan and Michael Gorbachov (f?) famously teed of with drivers made from molten-down missiles. This sent the world on a titanium frenzy. Citizen (watches) bought a huge amount of the stuff and produced a titanium watch. Titanium became available for medical use and it became a household name for what has been known as Unobtanium up to now. Russian companies entered the free market in the west with titanium nuts and bolts and other forbidden fruit. It went wild. Even brushed stainless or alu became know as "titanium finish". The latter word only added by honest merchants. Another nice thing about titanium is that is is practically inert. What that means to you and I is that it wont rust. Those are its two prime properties - brag value and corrosion-resistance. An alu frame can be made lighter, stronger, more durable and much much cheaper than a titanium frame. What more is there to want from a frame? Since titanium is twice as hard as aluminium, some parts can successfully be made from it. Bolts - sprockets etc. Insofar its use in bolts goes, it is a poor substitute for steel. In that application it only saves half the weight of the bolt, but bolts weigh nothing to start off with, looking at the overall bike. As a sprocket it is even poorer. It wears like candle wax. It is a totally inappropriate material for bicycles. Smallprint: I wildly avoid mentioning alloys of all three metals discussed since all alu, iron or aluminium used in bicycles is alloyed in anyway. It only complicates the issue. The core assumptions remain true.
  22. Ride the damn thing. That crack is longitudinal and follows an obvious seam in the tube. It will only go forward and backward and won't change direction. If you are really worried, put a hose clamp on each and of the crack and monitor whether it travels further. You are in no immiment danger. I'd still do the DC on it and then brag about it afterwards. A titanium bike without a crack or imminent crack isn't made from titanium. This metal is grossly inappropriate for bicycles.
  23. If your Campag is 10-speed, then yes. We dont' distinguish between road and mountain bike chain. A chain is a chain, as long as the speed aspect is right.
  24. I'm a hoarder, so I kept all my watches and my father's watches and my grandfather's watches. My everyday watch is a Casio G-shock that's about 15 years old. I can still buy all the spares for it, so don't knock Casio. I won't post a photo of this one, it is boring and disgusting. This Camy was my first real watch. The one before this was a Timex that I got i grade one, which I still have but never bothered to restore. It was rubbish. I must have got this Camy in standard 5 or 6. I had the Camy restored against the wishes of grumpy old Ernst Janner who said the watch wasn't worth the cost of repair. I went ahead nevertheless. He replaced the winder crown and spring. It goes well but you have to remember to wind it each day. This Seiko was one of Seiko's first quartz watches, at least one of the first quarts sports (i.e. moerse waterproof) watches. I bought it with my wages I earned from holiday work as a student. Very extravagant for what I earned, but it is a fantastic watch. Its first battery lasted 11 years. Thereafter for some reason they only lasted about two years. Whilst I was still wearing the Seiko I got all windgat and decided to start a watch collection. My first acquisition was this Rolex from the 1930s. It is an interesting watch. It is tiny with a huge winding crown. It is an early Oyster but from an era where they couldn't put three axles on one spindle and thus the second hand had to go on a separate face. It isn't automatic. I had Ernst Janner restore it for me and it is still a handsome, if somewhat muted watch. I didn't pay much for it and I have no idea what it is worth today. I then bought a couple of duds, including a ladies Rolex of as style that only dead grannies will look at. No photos of that. Then watches started coming my way. First my father gave me my grandfather's Tissot from somewhere in the 1950's. I had Ernst Janner restore this one for me too. I can't remember if he questioned my decision or not, he's full of **** in anyway. Nevertheless, I still bought stuff from him. One of my purchases was this handsome (the photo is unflattering) Eterna. It hails from the 1970s in an era when thin was good. Seiko had an expensie Lasale and the Swiss fought backwith this Eterna somethingorother. It was as thin as hell - but it was a gippo thin. It was thin at the sides but deep in the middle, to the point where it presses a hole in your arm if you wear it for longer than an hour. It is gold plated. After the Eterna, I bought a new Oris. I always wanted an Oris with a black face but couln't afford it so I went for this little rose gold one. I say little 'cause it is small enough to be a ladies watch. In those days watches weren't big yet. Unfortunately my eyes started to fail soon after I bought this and now I can barely see it. I never use it. The best part of this Oris is the back. Have a look at this. Just look at that detail. Pity no-one ever asks to see the back of your watch. Then I inhereted a couple of well-worn watches from my father. This one I remember him wearing when I was a kid. It is an Omega Seamaster. I had it fixed and restored by...you guessed right. Ernst. It is nothing special though and only has sentimental value. The other inhereted watch is also an Omega, this time a Deville. It also required restoration. These photos are quite cruel to the watches, they're more handsome than they appear on a macro photo.
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