David Greyling

Also saw the new routes. This can't be easy or cheap, does anyone know how we can support these guys with time, muscle or dollars?

Now that I wasn't aware of, I'll check it out when I get home this evening. Shot for the heads up.

Great, thanks to everyone. I think the initial solution at least is to change out the FD for a sram 2x10. Just a quick question, will the combination of a shimano slx shifter and a sram 2x10 FD (as per standard spec on the specialized) sort the issue? I know in a perfect world you'd probably change the shifters but as the RD is an XT I think sticking with Shimano shifters is advisable. Many thanks in advance.

Hi guys Thanks so much for all the input. To confirm the following: Brand new chain and chainring, both have done 32km on mostly tar with about 100m of dirt just to test it after coming back from the shop. I double checked the chain this morning and it doesn't even get to the 0.5 wear mark, it's literally brand spanking new. To be fair to the shop, the issue existed prior to taking it to them so it is in no way the fault of the guys there. The FD, as S14Phoenix spotted is a 9 speed (I'd forgotten that) but my assumption was that paired to a 10sp shifter and with careful limit setting that it should be fine. However, that could very well be the issue, might try source a sram 2x10 FD and test it, thanks for picking that up. @The real MJ - could also be a problem actually but I don't personally know. the shell is a 73mm and the BB is installed with no spacers on the drive side and a single 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side. from what I can read on various forums this seems fine. It was installed that way at the shop too so I guess it's correct. Again, thanks a lot to everyone for inputting, this thing is driving me nuts so your help is greatly appreciated.

The bike originally came specced with a Sram X7 front derailleur and shimano generic 2x10 shifters. I have now changed to shimano slx 2x10 shifters and a shimano slx front derailleur if that helps at all...

Finally got the pics (sorry about the orientation, uploading them sent it haywire) The pics are chronological, you'll see the chain get picked up, sent onto the top of the teeth and then stay there as the crank rotates. on the stand it usually drops back into the chainring, but you can imagine how this ends on the trail, usually with a derailled chain and an unhappy face. to note regarding limits, the outer limit is set as close as possible, even an eighth of a turn more and the chain will not be picked up to the big ring. the limit set like this is the only thing stopping the chain from derailling every time.

I'll take some pics later to share. BDF, that makes sense. to be honest I assumed (yes, stupid I know) that the chainring spacing and therefore shifter and FD spacing would match but it's entirely possible that it doesn't. Forgive the description, but when I ran the shift slowly it on a stand it almost seemed that the angle induced on the chain would make it impossible for it to seat on the chainring. I'll take pics and share later...

Hi All Thanks a lot for the input. To answer the questions to date: Robodog - Thanks, I will likely to that. BDF - FD is 1mm above the closest chainring tooth and outer plate is parallel with the big chainring. Actually changed the FD too, went from high mount dual pull to a low mount down pull, prior one was the sram X5, new one is the SLX. Currently running all 10speed, 10speed SLX chain on 10 Speed SLX cassette with 10 Speed Sram crankset. Spoke101 - No, only the big ring, but the small ring looks like it was born yesterday so i'm not worried about that GrahamS2 - Chainrings are correct (small bump oriented under the right crank arm and the Fd is the correct height i believe. Patchelicious - There is always one... Dirtypot - agreed, but as far as i can tell all of those requirements are met. Also agree with the 1x10 clutch comment, it was an experiment to try and patch a solution in the short term. long run would be clutch for sure. My theory for what it is worth is that the BB threads are slightly out of line with the frame, causing too much angle of the chainring. the chain rides on top of the teeth with the teeth sitting in the miniscule gap between the roller and the plates of the chain. I cannot replicate it on my other bikes even if I try... Thanks again for all the help, greatly appreciated.

Hi guys I need some help please. My girlfriend's bike has an issue that I have no reasonable explanation for. It is a Specialized Jett 29er hardtail size small. Groupset is currently XT rear derailleur, SLX front derailleur, SLX shifters, Sram X7 crankset with a sram GXP BB. I have replaced the chain, cassette, front chainring, front derailleur, bottom bracket and both shifters in the last two months so this is fresh equipment. Note, the issue began before all these changes, while the new kit made a difference the route issue is still there. Essentially, when shifting to the big chainring (irrespective of position on the cassette) the chain rides up on top of the teeth of the chainring momentarily (anywhere between 45deg and 180deg of the rotation) before settling into the chainring correctly. this results in at best in a click and slight jump in the chain and therefore feedback through the pedals. at worst, it derails the chain to the outside. I've had a bike shop I trust look at it. They have done their best but essentially what we are doing is using the front derailleur as a chain retention device. Once the chain is riding on top of the teeth it's a 50/50 chance of it settling into position or derailling so we've set the front derailleur to try and stop the derailling like a chainguide - not the ideal situation but workable for now. I even tried running a 1x10 with a Kalbo NW chainring and the chain derailled (to the outside). I checked chain length and although it is not a clutch derailleur we were not riding bumpy or tech track at all. to note, the only thing that has remained constant in the entire setup is the rear derailleur and the crankset (and obviously the frame) I have my own theory, but I'd appreciate input from anyone who has experienced this, or anyone who has a good idea of what/ how to diagnose the actual problem. many thanks in advance David

I prefer these for my trail running. Every now and then you have to get off and push over a rocky section, or get back on the trail after running out of talent. I find the grip on these to be sufficient for these running activities. http://fiveten.com/images/jreviews/13874_5026-impact-teamblack-01-web-1361556996.jpg The other shoes on this thread look a bit light, I'd be interested to see how the guys here manage their pedal pins in such thin soles. Haven't seen any SPDs on the thread though which means everyone here rides flats - FTW....

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c0/9e/50/c09e50b8be45d439abcc8cbb219dd2bd.jpg

Sun Screen, at least spf 40+ and you should be good to go. Or a pair of those awesome triathlete sock things, they work too.

Yes, your reasoning is flawed. Bush Diving is supposed to be done with at least a mild level of intoxication. Body position will however vary greatly depending on which flavour of bush diving. Standard non-vehicular bush diving is best achieved with a exaggerated swan dive position for aesthetic effect. From there you progress to bush diving from elevated positions such as bush lodge decks and roofs, this requires a more upright body position to allow cushioning from the knees. Particularly extreme bush diving is best possible from the back of a moving bakkie, one should assume the drop and roll position here and try to avoid rocks.

I can no longer "jump" without a French accent...

I think he "rode off the lip" instead of jumping it. Almost like he intended to stay down instead of flying. Didn't preload or pop off just road over it. Respect for trying though, that's a fair size jump on an XC hardtail. As LanceB says, only way we learn.

Love how chilled the dude on the right is. "just another day at the gap jump - yawn"

Design in Motion in Morningside. I think I actually saw that bar there too. Contact Kelly, if they don't have stock he'll be able to find out from the supplier and get it for you.

Hi and welcome I have a similar problem trying to find a bike small enough for my girlfriend. She is 5'1" with heels on. She had a ghost (stolen last year unfortunately) which was the best fit i could find. Problem is usually that the agents don't bring in the XS sizes, but they do exist. You may have to ask for a special import (or do it yourself via one of the international online stores). Check out the link below for the bike she had. It's a great bike and out the box was ready to race. http://www.rideghost.com/za/rt-lector-7700 On the hardtail side of things I know that GT make an xs Zaskar, there are also a few other options as hardtails are easier to make very small than dual suspensions. On hard tail vs. soft tail there will be pages and pages of comments for and against. It's very much personal preference, my experience is that for someone that small, the dual suspension bikes are relatively heavy, and will definitely only fit one bottle cage. They will also "feel" a lot heavier for a smaller person. The are however easier on the body and will give a beginner more confidence. The hardtail will be and feel lighter, might fit two bottle cages and is less maintenance. Obviously considerations like terrain, length of ride and ambitions (racing vs. weekend warrior etc) will come into it as well. My 2c.

Hi Firemeister Fair comment, apologies, I should qualify my statement further. Completely agree that personal goals and racing one's self are key parts of riding (mtb, road or otherwise). I was however making the point that those of us whose livelihood and career are not riding on their time and result can probably afford a few minutes to help someone out. By "just riding" I didn't mean exclusively fun/ exploratory/ coffee rides (which are awesome too). My bad, I wasn't clear.

Honestly I can't remember, I think it may have been a CRC order where i was trying to make up to the free delivery threshold because I can't recall seeing the product in a local store.

Howzit Running this on my girlfriends Campy 11speed with no issues. There is also a KMC 11 speed specific link if you really want, i have used it as well and to be honest i notice no performance difference between the two. KMC is significantly more expensive though so don't buy the marketing crap that you have to use it. Only problem is neither KMC nor SRAM are removable, so you have to break the link and replace it.

What is really impressive to me is the number of serious racers we are blessed with in this country. I can fully understand in a race where you are riding for your paycheck that you would choose not to help another rider. Your livelihood depends on your result so, in a way, fair enough. I'm just amazed that we have these "serious riders" all the way down to F and G group on the road. It's also surprising how often there are races on that I'm unaware of. Riding at Groenies or VG or NF on the weekends and seeing the "serious racers" come by with no greeting or offer to help I assume there must be a finish line somewhere. No intended trolling here but: If you're not racing for your job then you're not really racing, you're just riding. Chill out, enjoy your ride and help someone out. It costs nothing.

Download this. It's insanely detailed but handles just about everything you could ever imagine. Then as said above, check your component specific instructions when installing new stuff. www.esense.be/bike/Barnettmanual.pdf

Good day all I was wondering whether anyone was aware of legal requirements regarding building of trails/ jump lines etc on public land? The reason I ask is that there are a few spots (e.g. the patch of land off republic between witkoppen and Jan smuts, a few of the alleyways where electricity pylons cross the spruit, etc) that would be a great place to add a few berms and jumps. I'm guessing the fact that they aren't there means there must be some barrier as I'm sure someone would have built something by now. Further, I recall the see-saws on the spruit being removed because of an injury, was this related to legal transgressions or just general opinion on it? I just bought my first decent travel bike and the idea of helping out designing or building some trails appeals to me. Let me know your thoughts, opinions etc. I know there are already a bunch of trails to ride, but aren't bike trails like runs in cricket, more = better?

Post of the year +1 Still laughing to myself....