greatwhite

OX - Right you are' date=' if you ignore the preamble Right again - my fault for not qualifying my statement - I meant the load from road to rim. Although 'unloaded' refering to the spokes would certainly be more accurate given the context of this debate. Now the main question is: How much have we actually helped mbaymike who made the original post? I suspect the simple answer is - give it to Steven from Coolheat and let his folks deal with it if it is in the warranty period. I suspect he'll still have to speak to Steven even if it isn't, because he'll need special spokes anyway.

I picked up on it because you made the comment in response something about misquotes and misunderstanding. Symantics, I know, BUT: In isolation these 2 statements certainly project a different picture, yet they are both true and don't actually contradict each other: from A: tension in all of the spokes is increased except for the few in the flat spot - it doesn't say how much the increase is from B: the tension of all the spokes do not increase significantly So from both these statements, we know the tension increases, but not a lot. from A: tension in all of the spokes is increased except for the few in the flat spot - so these are either unchanged or tension has decreased from B: with only the spokes directly under the hub decreasing their tension. So from both these statements, we know the tension decreases in the spokes below the hub. What a surprise: this matches with the result of the FEA results - a small increase in tension all around the wheel except under the hub in the loaded zone, where there is a decrease in tension This can also be demonstrated in practice by Johans experiment - pluck the spokes - they all be fairly similar except the few in the loaded zone which will have a lower pitch due to reduced tension. The more weight you load onto the hub, the lower the pitch goes in those few spokes (the others actually increase very slightly in pitch, but most folks won't pick that up).

Thats not quite what it said.

Have to go with you an this one Johan, no spoke in a wheel should ever get to a point that it is completely untensioned i.e. loose. How the washer would help this situation is not apparent. Also adding the extra thickness of the washer into the equation will mean you have to deform the spoke to go 'around' the extra thickness, damaging the spoke in the place it is already most likely to fail.

Hearing of other folks with the same luck as me make me feel a little less frustrated with bike parts breaking: 5 frames - fatigue failures around the BB 2 cranks - one was definately as a result of unsquare faces on mavic BB 1 chain (only because I replace them regularly - say 5000km absolute max) 2 Bars 1 Stem 1 saddle 2 Pedals (one steel axle & one ali casing both on time pedals) 6 rims (all fatigue failure around the eyelets, only one was a front rim) 1 rear hub flange (fatigue failure - again) 6 (maybe more) rear axles (all in the days pre integrated free hub mech) Countless rear spokes, usually drive side - regardless of who builds the wheels & 3 front spokes In crashes, I written of some more bars, stems pedal, wheels etc. I've never broken a BB, front hub or saddle pillar that I can remember. The thought of having a saddle pillar shear while your sitting is an accident that especially scares me.

My wife is looking at getting one of those new Corsas and we had a look that option, very nice, but to add R10k for a bike rack is just too much!! If it was an aftermarket manufacturer, they would supply it at R2-3k and still make a nice profit. Its the same as the towbars - while OEM towbars are often very well made peices of equipment, many folks often buy aftermarket units, because they are R1k instead of R4-5k

A plastic chair will do..... Failing that, you need to spend a bit less on your bike and get some other things in your life. BTW ALL - poll added: https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=20051&PID=316778#316778

OK, admin - add the 'Mandatory Couch Picture' to the list of classified guidlines.

definately go for the other option. At least couch photos are different!

I'm a relative newb to the 'hub' and I know that a photo is a very useful tool when you're selling something in the classified section, but what with the (rather tired) joke about the couch photo???? OK, here we go - poll added - let the masses speak......or take photos of their couch as the case may be. https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=20051&PID=316778#316778 greatwhite2007-12-15 05:35:13

No harm done . Its not really a bit issue. The problem is, that name has a habit of sticking (as egg on your face does)

Hmmmm - it appears I completely overlooked the 'she who must be obeyed' factor. Just thinking about it now, unless you have a really BIG oven, it might not fit anyway. And lay off the eggwhite thing......

Heating can be done in your oven at home - the problem tool is a press. I used a 3 tonne hand press when I did mine, which was ideal, but not everyone has such tools at their disposal.

The process is pretty simple (but the tools required are harder to come by) - measure the shrink fit section in the crown of your fox fork, measure an RST on and make sure they are the same size. If they are the same size, you can swop them out. Strip the fork and place the upper assembly in a heater at about 80?C (some surface treatments may fail if you go higher than this) and soak - i.e allow time for the heat to penetrate all the way through the crown. Now the hardest bit - support the crown and press out the steerer tube. You MUST support the crown, not the legs - this is what make this part a bit difficult. The RST steerers have knurling on them which many others forks don't - I suggest taking off the high points on the knurling so they don't put too much stess on the crown when pressing the new steerer in. Pressing in the new steerer is much easier than getting the old one out, because the crown top (where the bottom of the headset goes) is flat as is the bottom of the steerer. Heat the crown again (not the steerer), press the steerer in until the it 'bottoms' and your done. (make sure you bottom it all the way round so the steerer is straight relative to the rest of the assembly) Allow to cool and rebuild the fork!

I replaced the steerer tube on my Duke Race with an RST steerer - rochshox would only sell me a complete upper assembly - what fox are like, I don't know.

You have no spacers in below the stem at all?

Can you not put a headset with a lower stack into the frame, recover the missing 10mm and change the stem to get the bars to the same position? Much light, stronger solution if you can do it.

Front wheel will probably be fine, but the back will loose spokes regulalry - unless your a small guy 16 spoke just aren't enough for the back.

BTW, good to meat you all this weekend!

You're right - it seems we turned left off the downhill at the correct place but that the route follows the river more closely after that - must be some singletrack hidden in there...? Yay!! More single track (with a camp in the middle?)