RobynE 🚵‍♀️

I’m sure Mellow Velo could assist you with a valuation/insurance replacement quote @Wezza 35 At the end of the day your valuation doesn’t need to describe what the replacement would be in terms of make and model but rather the replacement value of the bike as it stands now. They’re not like cars with official book values. Bikes are the value of the sum of their parts so the valuation could say frame worth x, drivetrain worth x, wheels worth x, etc, for a total of x. And then make sure your insurance pays you out versus actually replacing your bike at a shop and paying them. I say this as when we had a home invasion our items were replaced at a store which was paid by the insurance (Outsurance at the time - since changed) so our choices were what the store had and nothing else. Now with Old Mutual you get paid the cash and you can buy what you want from wherever you want. On a personal note and as a thanks for putting in the time to do it for me, I’d buy at least some of my replacement stuff from the bike shop, just as good will. Whether a saddle to a chain or parts 🤷‍♀️ particularly if they’ve not seen my face before or I’m unlikely to use their services again beyond a valuation letter.

Sorry one more note. Even if you have pool noodles or whatever fitted between the car and the rack supports, fine dust still gets in and has a sandpaper effect. Obvs the damage is seen more easily on metallic or dark coloured cars but whatever colour the damage does exist regardless. Better bet in this case is to fit some thick vinyl stickers to the car, so the rack supports rub against the stickers and not the car. Even better would be some sort of grippy sticker to reduce the rack’s ability to move. Think those sticky foam things you put under chair feet to stop them damaging floors.

My most recent Temu purchases - very happy with all and all exactly as pictured. The vests are super light, you forget you’re wearing them, and give me huge peace of mind for night time walks and rides. The grips worked flawlessly last night over 23km in the dark over roads, paved pathways and some single track on red route (Steyn City) including some very speedy twisty downhills at 40km/h plus. Didn’t feel squidgy and didn’t have to do a white knuckle death grip. At one point I actually wanted to force a grip to move as I didn’t position it exactly right but it said No. The valve caps seat very nicely and feel secure. And the red caps between my 2 red spokes and red valves on my Am Classic wheels just looks super cool.

I just bought these from Temu, did 23km last night over roads, paved paths and some red route track and they held up really well - didn’t feel iffy at all - secure. Not sure how long they’ll last but I’m happy for R88 (though I see now R97). And my hands didn’t get numb. Was also using gloves that are not my own and a little big for me but managed just fine. I’m coming from Lyne Cactus but found myself needing somewhere to rest my hands.

Ja we have a few different carriers - my personal car is a Jimny so I have the Holdfast Wheelie spare-wheel carrier mounted permanently for 1 max 2 bikes, then we have a Holdfast 2-bike hanging tow bar carrier for the other personal car if 1 or 2 bikes max, then an oldie but goodie Buzz Rack 4 platform for 3 bikes (4 at a carefully thought out push over short distance), and if we’re 4 or 5 bikes we use our company bakkie (JAC double cab which carries 5 people easily as well). The hatchback rack is used on my cousin’s Etios for her one bike, but it has scuffed paint and she’s just replaced the rear window motor - but no towbar, so is what it is for now! No damage to glass though. She has a plastic rear spoiler but the clips fit between the spoiler and the bootlid. Can’t remotely open the boot though - needs the key, and wouldn’t suggest opening the boot with the rack on, just like opening the Jimny with 2 bikes loaded tells you a quick boot hinge story lol.

Couple of things that happened with us: paint scuffs even with straps super tight blocked the rear wiper and we forgot, so broke the rear wiper motor Gets the job done but a roof carrier or towbar carrier would be preferable.

The Fluir Elite 1000 lumen light is a super piece of cheap kit! At sub R500 you’re getting a really, really decent light. We have two and they work brilliantly. We use them on strobe mode for say 2 hours at a time about 6 times before I think about charging and then they’re not yet showing low charge. The power button is also a battery indicator. I just charge out of habit. (also have an Extreme Light Endurance but haven’t needed to use it yet as I haven’t done any overnight rides - however I do believe it’s an insanely good light and hence I asked for one for Christmas 😄)

Oh that’s cooooool - thank you!

I don’t have that option when I touch the +. I only get the option to select contacts or to add new contacts, groups, communities or broadcast. iPhone 14 Pro.

Story of my life: “If you put the effort into pedalling that you’re putting into whingeing you wouldn’t be so tired” “Stop with the whingeing” “Are we at THAT time of the ride - whinge time?” === Then she gets past the 10km “I’m totally exhausted” phase and outrides me and everyone else for however long we have left and has an absolute ball doing so 😂

Thanks Jewbacca, that’s cool for more reasons than buying things on the Hub 😁 Tech-challenged here.

Regarding any transactions it’s willing seller, willing buyer for me. I won’t chase people who are selling things and don’t reply. If I want something and someone is selling it and we can easily conclude a transaction, all good. I do think that if you advertise on the Hub you should be willing to talk via DM, or if the buyer sends you their number to open up a WA conversation using your own initiative. Advertising on the Hub and then saying “WhatsApp only” is a little annoying, because it means that to initiate a conversation I have to save your number first. Probably works for loads of people but I tend to steer away from these types of ads due to the extra PT.

Regular bike and remove the crank 😀 Then add it back when the kiddo is ready to learn to pedal

I’m 1.66 and ride mediums - I find them more comfortable over distance. I feel a bit hunched up on a small. My bike is nothing fancy but I love it. It’s a probably 2014 Giant XTC carbon hardtail (frame) with a SRAM GX 1x11 groupset, oval chainring, a Rockshox Sid WC fork, American Classic wheels and hubs and Magura brakes. It weighs under 10kg without pedals. @RobertWhitehead here on the hub built it for me in 2023. It goes and it stops and it’s so easy to manoeuvre. I love that it’s so lightweight. Easy to load on the car or hang on a rack. It’s been super reliable and hasn’t needed any “real” work since Robert handed it to me. All of the parts are a minimum of 5-10 years old. Still has all the same parts it had when I got it, and it’s still rolling perfectly. It was actually just checked over yesterday after Trailseeker as the drivetrain felt crunchy - my LBS couldn’t find a thing wrong with it and a wash and lube resolved the crunchiness - probably just the very fine red sand making it feel like there were pebbles on my chain ring 😊 The feeling is gone now. I’m in the same budget category as you. I have sat on a few dualsus and I just haven’t found one that feels like “my bike”. My Giant feels like I’m supposed to sit on it and I love riding it. None of the dualsus I’ve sat on feel like I should be riding them. Not even the new ones. Maybe it would change if my budget was 3 or 4 times what it is, but it’s not. But I can say that a R40k dualsus (new) just doesn’t feel like it should be mine. But I think it’s personal preference and I don’t think anyone can answer the question for you as to whether a hardtail or a dualsus is a better choice. I think good quality, reliable, serviceable parts are the most important thing if you’re not your own mechanic. Poor quality or non-serviceable hubs for example end up being surprisingly expensive as it’s just about a full wheel build to replace in terms of labour cost. Of course everything is upgradable or replaceable but it all costs money. Sometimes a person lucks out on good quality used parts but you need to know what you’re looking for, and at. I don’t have that knowledge. All that being said - I bought my bike from Robert and long live Robert as I would be hard pressed to buy a bike second-hand just sommer. The Meridas at Solomons are really good value though and well worth a look.

PS tubeless done right and you pretty much forget about punctures. Totally different ride feel to tubed. I got 5 punctures in a 500m stretch on a ride the other day and all sealed up with barely any loss of pressure - I just had sealant sprayed all over the back of my legs and butt as it did its job lol. NB on a lot of new bikes the tyres are not tubeless so be sure to ask that - to get the best experience I would suggest getting the best tyres you can right from the start and setting tubeless up beforehand. My local bike shop trades in the stock tyres and gives a discount towards the new tyres. The tyres look similar but aren’t the same in terms of robustness, longevity and handling. Would also recommend a bike fit. It can make all the difference in the world to your comfort and confidence.

You’d be on the upper end of most small 29” frames so you’d probably be looking at a M. Whereabouts are you based? Any back or orthopaedic challenges? One trip around the block and you’ll wonder how you ever used rim/V brakes 😁 In your budget you’ll get a really really nice hardtail, and maybe even a dualsus. Solomon’s currently has a great sale on. For example: Merida Big Nine XT Edition (hardtail) with super components at R19,999 (Deore XT brakes and drivetrain and Manitou fork) Titan Cypher RS Sport (dualsus) at the same price (rideable components, Microshift Advent 1x10 and RockShox, there are better components but also way worse components) Merida Big Nine 400 (hardtail) at R11,999 (superb value for the price with Deore M6100 1x11 and a Manitou fork) Above are all new bikes. Then there are heaps and heaps of second-hand bikes in the classifieds too. I have bikes with 1x10, 1x11 and 1x12. I don’t find much of a difference between the 11 and 12 but I run out of gas with the 10.

What height are you? You’ll get something decent for your budget second-hand. Might not be a dualsus but still something decent!

I had vertigo after my race on Saturday but had half the red dust from the track in my sinuses and put it down to that 🤷‍♀️

Slight digression but when I specifically say “please don’t phone me, please email or WhatsApp XYZ info” and the phone immediately explodes after I hit send, it’s a hard no. I want to be able to look and read and digest and research and then I’ll come in and see you. All of my current cars (5 in my fleet) were bought through a salesperson being active and capable over WhatsApp.

Not sure where you are but Mellow Velo in Fourways (Broadacres) GP keeps a decent range of 26 tyres - Maxxis, Chaoyang and one or two other brands. Lots of kids bikes with 26” wheels still.

Thanks gents. It’s tough to price as I really haven’t found others like it. If you’re a parent you know. On paper it just seems like a 26” but to a kid (and a parent riding with a kid lol) the upgrades turn it into a whole other creature. The kid morphs, too 😂 I won’t lie the upgrades were more for me than for her initially as it made our rides a LOT more bearable as a parent - the added perk being her confidence positively SHOT up. I asked someone for a trade-in value towards a bike they’re selling and they said R3,500 - which made my face go like this 🫤 Which got me thinking, maybe I should ask other folks who are parents and cyclists at the same time. I don’t expect what I spent on it but R3,500 just doesn’t seem right in my eyes. If it was still stock then sure.

PS not expecting to get what I’ve paid for it but just looking for an idea of reasonable asking price if I list it.

My kiddo is rapidly outgrowing her bike and I’d like to get an idea of what it’s worth (trade-in or private sale). 2022 Titan Calypso Junior Purple 26” XS frame (24”) DT Swiss X1800 rims and hubs Maxxis Ardent - tubeless - still plenty of life Rockshox Sid WC air fork (prepared for remote lockout but no remote currently) SRAM GX 1x10 with oval narrow-wide Snail chainring 32T SRAM XO shifter XT crank and crank arms Avid Elixir brakes with Shimano discs - short stoppage for little hands - ridiculously good but smooth stoppage Fabric ergo grips but these will be changed to regular silicone grips With stock parts (boxed): fork, rims, shifter, BB, crank, chainring, derailleur, cassette - all 1x8 Microshift Mezzo 11.6kg with kickstand and lights, Stamp 1 alloy pedals fitted (pedals will come off) A very quick and reliable little bike. NO chain drops, no issues whatsoever. Some scuffs on outward facing parts (mostly as parts are good quality second-hand) but nothing affecting functionality. Bad pic of dirty bike but I’m sick and best I can do right now 😂

Not tubeless but another option for 24” - skinwall and 30TPI and great price: https://www.decathlon.co.za/bike-inner-tubes-tyres-wheels/311761-52973-all-terrain-grip-kids-mountain-bike-tyre-24x195.html And they have slime tubes: https://www.decathlon.co.za/bike-inner-tubes-tyres-wheels/85-76774-24x17-22-self-sealing-bike-inner-tube-schrader.html