Climate

If you live in Cape Town, the only way to get a one week turn-around, is to send it via Speed Post (generates a tracking number) from your local post office. Make sure you have it in on Monday morning and you should have it back by the Friday of the same week ... costs about R50. I've done that at least 20 times (sent mine, family and friends HRMs), without a problem.

If I remember to bring it with me, I'll show you that cassette at the fork workshop. Over 12 links, the 12th rivet had not quite reached 1/16" past the 12inch marking on my ruler, but the DC was looming, so just wanted to play it safe. The relevance of the climbs mentioned earlier, is that I could sit on a flat road in a bunch for 20km and put far less strain on a chain, than climbing a 20km mountain. So the life of that chain included a fair share of load. I don't use a power meter, but I'll guarantee you I'll generate more watts climbing a mountain, which translates into heavier load on the chain. I'm sure you'll agree that heavier load = greater wear (given same distance covered & chain hygeine). Having said all that, I did change the cluster at the same time that I replaced the chain (I reckoned 24000km was a job well done). But my reference to the cluster being good for another chain, was because the "stretch" factor was less than 1/16" and I've always held that the cluster is toast if the chain gets to 1/8" over the limit. I of course realize, that a new chain will quickly deteriorate to the "characteristics" of the previous chain (if the cluster is not replaced) ... but the fact remains: the chain was still within limits, so the cluster was good for a new chain.

You doubt wrong Johan ... my Polar settings are tuned pretty accurately (to within a few hundred meters over a measured race distance - eg. Argus). Previous chain gave me twenty four thousand, four hundred and twenty three trouble-free kilometers. That included Mt. Ventoux, Col du Galibier and Alpe d'Huez, as well as the training to ride those mountains (conventional crank and 12-25 cluster). So there's been some drag on that chain! And it takes no extra effort to pour the remaining paraffin from chain-cleaner into a plastic bottle (I use empty pool-acid container) and drop off at your local Engen, once full. I also use Prepsol occasionally ... but mostly when doing events away from home.

I use paraffin in a chain cleaner (which routes the chain round a few rotating brushes) ... without removing the chain. The work takes less than 10 minutes (including relubing) ... not counting the half-hour I leave things standing, between cleaning and lubing. I get over 20000km per chain (and don't need to replace the cluster), which indicates the cleaning process is satisfactory.

If you need to repair your chain, you're gonna need a chain tool anyway (unless you get lucky and it's your quick-link that failed ... in which case, you may need a second one). And you shouldn't need to break your chain for cleaning purposes?

Is there a reason you don't join the chain with the "permanent" link supplied with your new Campag chain?

I can't speak from experience, but because there's no gear changing taking place ... which of course implies your chainline is always ideal, I'd guess your chain should outlast any "geared" chain ... and I get between 3000 and 5000km on my geared chain (depending on conditions of course, as one long muddy session will kill a chain - which is why I swop out my "good" chain for a cheaper "disposable" when I know it's gonna be wet ... eg. Sani2c). There's hardly any tar in that mileage.

If your lugs cater for non-continuous cable housing, I'd advise keeping it like that ... just get a set of XTR tongue and shields where the cable housing ends.

I don't mind the TIIINNG sound of stones hitting my alu down-tube from the front tyre ... I'd be more nervous, if that was a hollow THUD of the same stones hitting my carbon down-tube! Reckon you loose more rigidity through the numerous pivot points on a FS, than you gain by going carbon over alu.

Typically, you'll start a ride early (when it's cold) and finish when the sun has risen some and the temp is a bit warmer. Now we all know that hot air rises ... but that same hot air also fools barometers, making them believe that they've been "elevated", since the rising air effectively indicates lower pressure and therefore less air stacked on top of said barometer (ie. thinks it's sitting on a mountain somewhere). The Polar software also has an altitude Error Correction function (right-click on the Curve screen and select Error Correction. Then select the Altitude tab and click on the sqare up/down arrow under the graph and make your choice from the radio buttons offered).

I also have details where you can get the job done, if you're in Cape Town ...

And if the frame is alluminium, there's also the option of anodizing it ... and it weighs less than paint!

But Shimano have at least broached the topic of heat dissipation in rotors ... taken from a test of the new XTR M980 brakes: "Cooling fins are integrated into the backing plates on the Trail-edition pads and the three-layer, two-piece spidered rotors include a layer of aluminum sandwiched between two outer sheets of stainless steel – all in the name of dissipating heat".

I used to switch between Finish Line wet lube (in wet conditions) and White Lightning in dry ... then a few years back, it seemed the White Lightning formula was altered (I just perceived it to be thinner) and it would wash off more quickly than it used to (with the inevitable river crossing). So I tried Squirt (after seeing it advertised in a Trans Alp photo). I've found it definitely lasts longer ... don't need to re-lube on long MTB rides, unless there are multiple river crossings (but still less frequently than was the case with WL). The chain remains cleaner ... got over 20 000km on my last roadbike chain (and the matched cassette is still good for a second chain).

You need to determine if the problem is with your STI, or the new derailleur. Try pulling the cable next to the down-tube (if it's accessible), to check if the derailleur moves freely ... then work backwards from there. Good luck.

I'm amazed nobody's mentioned paddle shifters yet ... guess they're just in a different league?!!

The major difference is weight. As far as durability goes, I can't comment on the record cassette, but with Campag, you can race and train on the same stuff ... it lasts. My Chorus chain and cassette lasted me about 25 000 km (there's no mistake on the 0's) and that mileage included some serious climbing (Col de Roseland, Col de Galibier and Alpe d'Huez). You've made a good choice Lightweight! Climate2010-02-14 11:30:52

Campy also make an adjusting barrel, that attaches on the down-tube, where the outer cable from your ergo-lever ends ... assuming you don't have internal cable routing of course. That may solve your problem - just "screw" in the adjuster on your derailleur as far as it will go and adjust your cable from the down-tube in future. Alternatively, JagWire make an inline cable adjuster (pic attached) Climate2010-01-18 09:58:25

If you're hoping to make a decision based on the average opinion DJ84, the guys haven't been much help. All I can offer is that until you start monitoring your heart-rate, you don't know what you don't know?!! You know that you can stop! So I'd definitely go with as good a HRM as you can get for the voucher (even add a little cash to it if need be, to get one that can upload exercises to your PC if possible). Then start scratching the pennies together so you can do the wheels and disks at the same time. Good luck.

Yip, I was referring to 9-speed chains, where the link can be used multiple times over. If the manufacturer specifies single use only, I'd kinda go with their recommendation (and use pliers to remove). There are other 10-speed quick-links, which can be used more than once.

You shouldn't need to use pliers ... in fact, I'd advise against it (simply because you may end up bending the plate). As long as you give yourself a bit of slack on the chain and make a "Z" with the links either side of the Powerlink, it should disengage with finger-strength alone.

It will last long enough to be re-used on the (same) ride if necessary ... just as a top-up, but you may as well ditch it when you get home. Even with the best of seals, it will at best mimic a gentle fart the next time you need it (depending of course on how soon that is) ... and you'll be one canister short!

But there's more ... at the TdF this year, I spoke to an agent about this innovative product/design (a blend of kevlar and carbon), which some of the tour riders were apparently testing on rest days. It may be more suited to roadbike application, because mud "impregnatioin" on the MTB down-tube will have a serios effect on the weight specs. The roadbike frame in comparison, had solid (carbon?) seat- and chain-stays. Climate2009-10-06 09:53:13

Spot the difference ...