Piernas Flacas

Wishing this fellow rider a speedy recovery. I hope is nothing serious and he/she can ride again soon.

Rider and dogs ok. The hiker broke an ankle.

This happened in Mexico Watch here

Not quite dead. I just bought 2 tyres. Depending what you're looking for, I guess.

Greta, what do you think?

Good luck and be safe!

My BB shell was scratched when I once took my bike for service. Then I decided to learn how to do it myself and in the process I realised that they hadn't even bothered to service the free hub on the side where a special tool was needed. The only item I yet need to learn how to service is the fork.

Well, it has a Super Soft Comfort Seat which is valued at R19 000.

Thank you for your kind offer. I'm sorted now. I'll keep an eye on the tape tension going forward!

Ok, maybe stretched is not the word. As tight as possible so it doesn't make bubbles, perhaps? But it's interesting what you mentioned about the temperature and the contracting of the tape. I'll see how it goes. Thanks. Oooohhh... that explains the 5 bar! It just didn't make sense to me. My brain has only one setting: MTB.

Thanks for sharing!

Fellow Hubbers, I'm please to announce that my efforts paid off and this last tubeless rework was a total success. 3rd time lucky? Not so. Here's what I learned, and remember, this is to redo an already converted wheel set and start from scratch: - Remove old tape. If residue is left behind, remove it as well. For Gorilla tape I used, er, more Gorilla tape, it works. Lots of elbow grease. - If the rubber strip that protect the spoke nipples is worn or loose or dodgy, remove it as well. You'll regret it if you don't. - Clean the rim thoroughly with acetone or similar to remove any other residue, especially sealant. - Apply whatever tape blows your hair, Stans or Gorilla or whatever that suits the purpose. Gorilla worked for me. Lots of elbow grease here as well. Make sure the tape is properly stretched and stuck to every nook and cranny on the rim. - As stated by many people, use either sunlight, soap, or in my case a tiny bit of silicon paste on the tyre beads to ease the fitting to the rim. - If all of the above was done properly the tyre should pop at no more of 2 bar. If not, something is not right. Either the tape shifted (rim surface contaminated) or there's a leak in the valve. I know a lot of this is common sense and has been discussed ad nauseum but sometimes one is lazy and take shortcuts to get the job done quickly. Not for this task. It was cool interacting with you all. Safe riding! Ernesto

I agree, it's not that difficult. On a brand new wheel it shouldn't take that long. My problem was not cleaning up properly the residue and sealant of previous tubeless installations not knowing that that would cause all sorts of issues. I won't take shortcuts on this ever again. It's probably the crappiest bicycle task to do but needs to be done properly.

Ok, here's some feedback. Just finished reworking the back wheel after about 3 hours of proper cleanup with acetone and clean rags and GT installation. It was a lot of work but I think I got it right now. Just waiting to see if it's holding nicely. I applied a tiny bit of silicone paste to the tyre beads and I was surprised that I could even pushed them in the rim with my bare hands without using levers. Pumped it up and at 1.5 BAR I hear a reassuring pop. Fingers crossed! Thanks all for your comments even if it was uitkak, LOL!

Well, on my first attempt I tried the bathtub and bubbles were coming out pretty much everywhere, even the spokes. But I could also hear the air leaks. GT has given me good results in the past. I think this time I just took too many shortcuts. But you're right GT leaves a lot of residue behind which is difficult to remove. That's correct. I just finished my 3rd attempt on the back wheel. This time I took my time, I think 3 hours, to remove all the GT and sealant residue properly using acetone and clean rags. I reapplied the GT very carefully this time making sure it stretched properly and stuck it several times with my fingers and nails, or what is left of them. And you're right. Done properly it will fit a 24 mm rim without sticking out.

I have considered it but I haven't capitulated just yet. I prefer learning from my mistakes.

I used the 25 mm width GT few years ago without trimming and it worked pretty well. I remember some of the GT was also sticking out. Regarding shaking the sealant, yes, I shook it on part 1 of my story BUT, for part 2, I decanted what was in the tyre into a container to be able to reuse it (I'm on a tight budget), and when I put it back to the bottle I notice some of sediment was left behind. This time I'll use brand new.

Hey guys! Right, so here's a follow-up on this. Part 1 So, as stated before, I did not remove the original protecting tape from the rim for these being tubeless-ready rims. After cleaning the rim with a rag I stuck a new layer of Gorilla tape, which I then trimmed while on the rim to cover only the base of the rim and not the edges (mistake?). Fitted the brand new tyres and poured Enduro seal in through the valves. Re-inflated tyres to 3 bar - not hearing the pop - but making sure that the gap between the rim and the line of the tyre was the same all around. Went for a ride around the block. Result? Tyres not keeping pressure having to stop every 15 min to pump the back tyre up. After many frustrated attempts of re-inflating to a higher 3.5 bar, pouring in more sealant and going for more rides to allow the sealant to find its way through all the nooks and crannies, nope, same issue. Part 2 Then I decided to redo the whole thing thinking that trimming the GT was a mistake. This time I removed the original protecting tape because I noticed it was wrinkled and it allowed sealant to go into the nipples anyway and I thought maybe it's preventing the GT to stick properly. I cleaned the rim the best I could but, I must confess, I left some traces of old sealant that I couldn't remove with the rag. Reapplied new GT, not trimming it this time and making sure it stuck to the edges properly. Refitted the tyres, added sealant, pumped to 3 bar, didn't hear the pop, air still leaks. Took the bike to the petrol station thinking maybe with the compressor the tyres will seat and pop, which kind of did but not convincingly. Problem still persists. What now? I noticed that in one small section of the tyre the GT is sticking out, however I don't hear any leaks there. I can hear air leaking in a section where the tyre appears to be properly seated, so I'm going to try the following: - Just open a gap a little bit where the GT is sticking out and try to push it back in - Apply a bit of silicon grease on the edge of the tyre (which I have done in the past, dunno why I didn't do it this time) to allow the tyre to seat more easily. - If this doesn't work I will redo the whole thing this time by cleaning the rim with acetone (I read in another post that acetone can be used to remove sealant residue, is this correct?) and maybe also apply a layer of electrical tape on top of the GT, which I read also helps protect the GT. Do you guys think this will work? Maybe I should try to get a new protecting strip for the nipples and then apply the GT and then electrical tape? Sorry for the long post. I wanted to give as much detail to you. TIA

I have taped them already on top of the rubber. Thanks for your comments!

Yes, it's tubeless ready. Thanks, Barry!

Hey guys, is one supposed to remove the rubber strip that protects the spoke nipples before installing the tape or should it be left there? Thanks!

Now you have 2 interesting cookie cutters!

My respect to all riders. Finishers and non-finishers.

In the brochure's photo the seat stays look different than the OP's bike. The tips welded to the seat tube top appear to be cut flat diagonally. I've seen this in other bikes as well. Anybody knows the purpose of it?

Cool, thanks, I think it's time for a new one!